I am attempting to put headers on my 383 this weekend on my 70. The starter is not installed. Which will be easier, starter then headers or vice versa?

TIA, Kevin

I'm guessing starter so you don't have to snake it and the wiring up under and through the headers. Will also allow you to put on a heat shield.

Thanks Patrick, any other opinions?

I would definitely put on a heat shield. I have Hooker comps and I put the headers in from the bottom with the starter on. Im sure that was the easiest way, but I think my starter will come out anyway. My biggest problem was the drivers side going in. I had too pick the motor up a couple of inches.

Heat shield? I have never used a heat shield on a car with headers and the ultimate no-no, I don't use the support that goes from the starter to the block either, but hey, no problems.

Same as Robert, and in addition, the statement "starters and headers" is one that is in my experiences always some kind of hassle. If possible, you might consider a ministarter. They don't solve every problem but, just not having to work around the mass of the starter motor itself sure made things alot easier for me. And, they sound really cool! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Mike

IMO I'd do both at the same time. This way you can find out now if you can even get the starter back OUT for a future repair!

Last summer I had to replace the solenoid on my '64. What should've been a 1/2 hr. job turned into HOURS because there wasn't a 1/4" of clearance on one of the tubes.

If I would have put a little "ding" in this tube, and cut 1/8" off the control arm stud (when I had room to do it!) the starter would've fallen out on it's own.

Run a heat shield as well. It's cheap insurance and does help.

I put the starter on then headers, very easy. Had to r&r starter later with headers on, PITA.

On my 69, the header won't go on or off with the starter in place. I would definitely install the header first, then starter.

Not to be contrarian to both, but I had to start to install my headers first but leave them hanging down. Then install the starter and finish the header.
Getting the starter out of your way will allow as much room as possible for the header installation.
Use a mini starter to get rid of the boat anchor GM starter.

Guess it's a matter of engine, header, and car combination as to what works.

'65 SS w/sbc/hooker comps: had to pull the starter to get the headers out of the car. still had to lift the engine a couple inches after starter was removed. not a big deal since i was pullin the motor out anyway, but no way would the hooker comps go in with the starter attached and the engine bolted to the mounts. no way!

The hardest part about installing the starter after the header is attaching the two small solenoid wires to the starter. What I did was go to the trailer hitch aisle at Pep Boys and buy a little snap-together two-wire connector made for trailer lights, and splice it into my starter harness about 24 inches away from the starter. This way, you just plug/unplug the starter up in the firewall area, and you don't have to try and squeeze in there to attach the wires directly to the starter.

Thanks for the input guys. A mini starter is not in the works. I just paid big bucks for a high torque starter, and my cheap a$$ ain't shelling out no more dough. I think I will try to get the header into the compartment first, and maybe just wire it there until the starter gets installed. That ought to give me some wiggle room. Then I will bolt up the header. I'll keep you posted how it works out.

Kevin

Does your new starter have the rotating mount? I worked with my starter first, but turned the mount so the solenoid was tucked up near the oil pan. Then brought the headers in from below. I'm sure if I had a stock sized starter, I'd but be bashin' tubing in several places!
-Bill