Yea I know this sounds stupid but here goes nothin. See a buddy mine got ripped off by buying an lt-1 motor that was from a 92 Camaro and not a vette which he was told. After his incedent It got me thinkin. The guy I bought my chevelle from really had no idea what he was talking about. He told me it had a 350. I really never though twice about it. The motor didn't come with the stock carb or anything. Not exactly performance stuff but no way to identify what motor it is. It uses smogger heads that use autolite 26 plugs. I figured they put a mid 70 motor in out of a Nova or wagon. So my real question is how can I find out whether it's a real 350 and not a 307. Any info would be geeat
-Brandon

Check the casting numbers on the back of the motor where the tranny bellhousing connects to. These are cast, not stamped. Then check on www.mortec.com (http://www.mortec.com)

Well I'll check the block numbers tomorrow when I have some daylight, but I did check my #'s on my heads. 2 different heads Here are the numbers:
376450 & 14014416. Both are for a 305. graemlins/angry.gif
Now just 1 question can you put 305 heads on a 350 or am I screwed. Well If it is a 305 its new motor time.

Don't worry just yet, I think heads are interchangable on the SBC from 283CID-400CID. The casting # will let you know block for sure, but then again the crank could be different and it could be a 333ish or 383ish, etc. If the block is a 350 block though I wouldn't worry it being less than 350cid

Could be the same with the heads. They might have stock 305 casting numbers, but could actually be reworked/remanufactured replacements. I've got a set 76cc 350 heads that were milled to 74cc's (I cc'd them at school), have 2.02/1.60 valves, springs to handle .600" lift, and have the valve bowls ported. Still look pretty stock though.

The fact that the heads are for a 305 don't bother me, I was going to do a vortec swap anyway, the worse the head the bigger improvement i'll see. The problem is that I was just going to swap heads and a cam into my current motor, but if the motor is a 305 and not a 350 that is my worry. I don't want to poor $ into 305 and I wasn't planning on getting a new bottom end.

If you do a Vortec head swap it should be pretty cool, but if you actually do tear into the engine...you'll probably kick yourself if you don't make it a 383 now.

Ah crap its a 305. Here's the casting number 460778 :mad: graemlins/angry.gif . Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Dude this ruins my whole weekend. Crap. I guess I have get new motor now :mad:

Don't feel too bad, You can pick up a gm goodwench replacement 350 longblock for around $1,200 or shortblock it for even less. Then just go get your vortecs for around $500, camshaft & lifter set, intake (vortec heads require a special intake, the bolt pattern is different than standard smallblocks), you'll also need self-aligning rockerarms (if you're not using hardened pushrods and guideplates, that is), centerbolt valve covers, and your miscellaneous gaskets and hardware. You should come in at less than $3K. Less than what it costs to either buy or build a 383 stroker. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Is there anything wrong with the GMPP engines? For $2300 (Jegs price) here is what you get

# 330 HP @ 5000 RPM, 380 ft.lbs. Torque @ 3800 RPM (Max. Recommended RPM: 5500)
# 9.1:1 Compression Ratio
# Cast Iron 4-Bolt Block with One-Piece Rear Main Seal
# Nodular Cast Iron Crankshaft
# Cast Aluminum Pistons
# PM Steel Connecting Rods
# Cast Iron 64cc Chamber Vortec Cylinder Heads with 1.94'' Intake and 1.50 Exhaust Valves
# Dual Pattern Cam, Lift: .435'' Int. / .460'' Exh., Duration @ .050: 212° Int. / 222° Exh.
# 1.5 Ratio Rocker Arms
# Recommended spark plug- Accel 111-516 or any spark plug with 14mm, .708'' reach, 5/8'' hex, tapered seat, projected tip

Here's the link.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4227&prmenbr=361

This would seem to me to be a great place to start .

It's a great start depending on where you want to go with it. Do you plan on adding any power adders? The 4-bolt block is a good thing, but if you plan on doing any racing or anything really taxing on the engine, you may want to step up to some beefier internals. I say you go get the best you can afford. You can always find forged parts for small chevys on sale all over, cranks for like $250, same with rods, you can get forged ones from Scat for $260. Pistons may be a little more, but the peace of mind of having a bulletproof bottom end is priceless.
Looking on the Jegs website, for little more than $1,000 more you could get the ZZ4 shortblock with that tough bottom end and the same vortec heads and pieces to complete the engine. With that combo you could be free to use power adders and upgrades any time you want. Here's a link to Speed-O-Motive (http://www.speedomotive.com/chevy_small_block_assembled.htm) , they've got complete turnkey engines of 400 h.p. or more at about $1,000 more than what you're looking at. You might also want to try Scoggin Dickey (http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=63) , that's where I bought the Vortec heads for my suburban.