Hi guys, a good friend of mind did this same thing on his '67 ChevyII and is having good luck, so I'm replicating it on my chevelle tank. Basically partitioned a box around a tanks inc install. Some fuel can creep in/out of the area in the gaps created by the bottom of the tank corrugation, but I plan to drill a couple holes at some intermediate height in the partitions. What should my logic be? Just a bit higher than the tanks inc tray? Half tank height? Other? Maybe a small mouse hole at the bottom of the longitudinal partition since there aren't corrugation windows?

More details and pictures on the rest of the build, but the question above is holding me up from transferring cardboard to metal, and welding this dude up.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/TanksIncMinHeight.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/FuelPlateSpot.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/GeneralIdea1.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/FlattenCorrugHeight.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/RightView.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/FrontView.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/LeftTemplate.jpg

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/TJ_Johnson/TankMod/CenterTemplate.jpg

Yes, the tray will be trimmed flush with the top of the tank. The fitting height should clear the bottom of the trunk pans, no I'm not cutting a service hole in my virtualy rust free original trunk :)

Thanks in advance

Don't bother cutting any holes there as they won't do you any good. You will get your fuel from the bottom gaps so long as you make sure you also have top gaps.

Depending on your driving habits/style I might be inclined to rotate the tray fore/aft rather than side/side. In the side to side orientation you show you will get more slosh on cornering (and less on acceleration).

Yeah, I was thinking about leaving the aft wall blank or drill those holes higher so that under acceleration the fuel can't leave the well as easily. I'm not really a corner carver, but this car should do better than my other chevelle. Also, being a stick car, the fuel will momentarily come to rest on gear changes.

Note, tanks inc suggests orienting the tray outward and offset to one side of the tank like this. When turning in one direction, the downleg keeps fuel in the tray, and in the other direction the whole side of the tank is flooded.

For reference, that aeromotive 340 pump (340lph or ~90gph @ 40psi), would take about 7.5 seconds to pump that 3 cup tray dry, this assumes no incoming fuel and nothing coming back in from the return. Since I'll run it near 60psi where it pumps 280ish lph or 74gph, it would take 9 or so seconds. If this car runs 11s or 12s, I would only have to count on a little fuel refilling the tray, and by my estimates I should only be using 60-70% of the fuel pump...unless I spray it (which is the reason I bought this bigger pump).

Any updates to this? I'd love to see some more pictures after it was finished...

I cannot comment on adding more baffles except to say I think its a great idea. I think you are on the right track with the design as well. I will say that my tanksinc setup has worked extremely well from a performance standpoint. I have run the car hard with a 1/4 tank to see what it would do and it never stuttered. Also my chevelle has run numerous passes in the 12 second range and never hiccuped. One piece of advice I have however, is to ditch the cork gaskets in lieu of something better. Mine leaks with a full tank and the only conclusion I have come up with is the gaskets seeping.

Any pics of the completed install?

Debating on redoing my setup since I can't fit the 1/2" lines under my crossmembers in the rear. Was thinking about cutting larger hole and recessing it so I had more room.

Any pics of the completed install?

Debating on redoing my setup since I can't fit the 1/2" lines under my crossmembers in the rear. Was thinking about cutting larger hole and recessing it so I had more room.
You could always either notch or tunnel the bed crossmember... Mine is notched a bit.

You could always either notch or tunnel the bed crossmember... Mine is notched a bit.

It's pretty looking right now and I don't want to damage it... lol ;)

Might have to to that though. I want to run hard lines out of the module and not braided.

My 57 Chev pickup had a cork gasket on the sender that always seeped and it's inside the cab. I was wandering around a big Tru-Value hardware store near me and found this gasket material they had, it's like a sheet of rubber. Few minutes work with scissors and hole punch, never leaked again.

As a slight aside, can someone tell where I can get electrical pass-thru's like that? What are they actually called?

-Dave

They are called bulkhead connectors, but finding them for fuel might be a problem. I tried to do a quick search, but didn't find what you want. These guys might have something: http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/index.html or here http://www.atlfuelcells.com/ but you'll probably have to call them. Sorry that I couldn't help more.

Here is a pic of my finished install on the tank. I ended up shimming the front of that tank down a bit as I didn't want to weld on my relatively new but used tank.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/pist0lpete/GasTankMods003.jpghttp://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/pist0lpete/GasTankMods002.jpg