Ok, I finally finished all the plumbing and all the wiring today. I am following the Avenger handheld manual and can't get past the initial power up. it is supposed to say:

Connecting
HEFI Connected
Syncing with HEFI
Synced

My says:
'Connecting' then goes to 'Connect HEFI'. I've connected all the wires as per the install manual so I am at a loss. I guess I'll have to call Holley tech tomorrow. This system is starting to aggravate me...

Doug F. will probably respond here Monday. He is an EFI engineer at Holley and is usually able to resolve problems quickly.

Some good news. After speaking with Tom at Holley tech he helped me discover two wiring issues. I have corrected those and got the car to start and run. I have since base timed it and it's running pretty smooth.

Problem I'm having now is that the headers start to glow red after about 5 minutes of running at about 2000rpm (too much fire leaving the combustion chamber through the exhaust valve, maybe not getting a complete burn) I think I'm getting too much fuel but not sure yet. I .have to do a couple things first:

1) I think my plugs need to be changed as they are kinda black (my carb always ran a little rich). I'll probably go up two heat ranges on the plugs.

2) Then I'll sync up the total timing on the engine to match what the ECM is seeing.

3) Finally, I'll have to use a millisecond meter to see what the injector pulse width is at, at idle and at 2000rpm. It's getting there slowly but surely.

Tom/Doug F. - Do either of you guys know if the pulse width on the injectors can be shortened if I wanted to do so?

I'll type more later or tomorrow but hold on there. The engine will run closed loop to a target A/F ratio. You don't tune by pulsewidth.

You need to sync your timing NOW. If it is off that is probably why your headers are red.

I'll type more later or tomorrow but hold on there. The engine will run closed loop to a target A/F ratio. You don't tune by pulsewidth.

You need to sync your timing NOW. If it is off that is probably why your headers are red.

Ok, got it. I will change the plugs as I know they're black and should be changed anyways to get a good burn then sync up the timing between the ECU and the motor @ 2000rpm as stated in the manual. I'll see where I am after that. Thanks.

retarded timing is the usual cause of red-hot headers. get that sorted first. actually a lot like carbs, get the ignition sorted before trying to tune the fuel delivery.

:yes:Ok, got it. I will change the plugs as I know they're black and should be changed anyways to get a good burn then sync up the timing between the ECU and the motor @ 2000rpm as stated in the manual. I'll see where I am after that. Thanks.


I just installed my HP EFI, but where are the instructions for syncing the timing? I've looked at the online version and there isn't any reference. Thanks in advance.

:yes:


I just installed my HP EFI, but where are the instructions for syncing the timing? I've looked at the online version and there isn't any reference. Thanks in advance.

14. After the engine starts, check for fuel or water leaks. Once everything appears to be ok, let the engine warm up. If the engine appears to be struggling for air, you may have to open the throttle plates up. You just want to have the engine get up to operating temperature.

15. At this time, it is advisable to check the timing with a timing light. If the ECU is controlling the timing, you want the actual timing as measured with the timing light, to match the timing being commanded by the ECU. Look at the data monitor. There will be a parameter called “Ignition Timing”. Note this value. Now look at the timing of the engine with a timing light. These need to match. If the engine timing is more or less, turn the distributor and increase or decrease it until it matches what the distributor says. Once they match, do not move the distributor again. If you want to change the timing, you change the timing table via the laptop.

16. After the timing is set, wait until the engine is up to operating temperature (over 160 degrees). Next you will adjust the throttle plate position. Look at the data monitor parameter called “IAC Position”. You want this value to be between approximately 5 and 15%. If it is stuck at 0, you need to CLOSE the throttle plates until the value is between 5 and 15%. If it is above 15%, you need to OPEN the throttle plates. HOWEVER, if you open them, you may need to do a TPS Autoset if the TPS value is NOT 0 at idle during this process. Open the screw slightly, shut the engine off, perform a “TPS Autoset”, and restart. The other option is to loosen the TPS and set it such that reads “below 0% TPS” during this process. This will allow for you to open the throttle plates while maintaining a TPS value of 0%.

17. At this point the throttle plates should be adjusted (meaning the “IAC Position” is reading 5-15%) and the ignition timing as indicated on the laptop (“Ignition Timing”) matches what is measured with a timing light. You are now ready to drive the vehicle and have the ECU perform the self-tuning fuel process.

14. After the engine starts, check for fuel or water leaks. Once everything appears to be ok, let the engine warm up. If the engine appears to be struggling for air, you may have to open the throttle plates up. You just want to have the engine get up to operating temperature.

15. At this time, it is advisable to check the timing with a timing light. If the ECU is controlling the timing, you want the actual timing as measured with the timing light, to match the timing being commanded by the ECU. Look at the data monitor. There will be a parameter called “Ignition Timing”. Note this value. Now look at the timing of the engine with a timing light. These need to match. If the engine timing is more or less, turn the distributor and increase or decrease it until it matches what the distributor says. Once they match, do not move the distributor again. If you want to change the timing, you change the timing table via the laptop.

16. After the timing is set, wait until the engine is up to operating temperature (over 160 degrees). Next you will adjust the throttle plate position. Look at the data monitor parameter called “IAC Position”. You want this value to be between approximately 5 and 15%. If it is stuck at 0, you need to CLOSE the throttle plates until the value is between 5 and 15%. If it is above 15%, you need to OPEN the throttle plates. HOWEVER, if you open them, you may need to do a TPS Autoset if the TPS value is NOT 0 at idle during this process. Open the screw slightly, shut the engine off, perform a “TPS Autoset”, and restart. The other option is to loosen the TPS and set it such that reads “below 0% TPS” during this process. This will allow for you to open the throttle plates while maintaining a TPS value of 0%.

17. At this point the throttle plates should be adjusted (meaning the “IAC Position” is reading 5-15%) and the ignition timing as indicated on the laptop (“Ignition Timing”) matches what is measured with a timing light. You are now ready to drive the vehicle and have the ECU perform the self-tuning fuel process.



Thanks again Vince. Drove it around for a few miles and love it. My A/F spikes into the red while driving, is this normal and the fuel pressure drops to 37ish at times? Thanks.

Ok, so I put the new plugs in. Fired up the car and locked the rpm's at 2,000. The ECU was showing 34 degrees of timing on the little handheld unit. I set the timing on the motor to 34 degrees. Ran the car for over 15 minutes at varying rpm's.

Everything is looking AND sounding good now. No more glowing headers, a nice smooth idle and really good throttle response. Time to do some road testing so the ECU can 'learn' that I like to drive fast.

And just to satisfy my curiosity I check the pulse width on the injectors at idle. I measured 1.96ms. I was told as long as it's under 2ms at idle it's good.

Thanks all for the replies...

Thanks again Vince. Drove it around for a few miles and love it. My A/F spikes into the red while driving, is this normal and the fuel pressure drops to 37ish at times? Thanks.

I still get spikes up/down, but the da#m thing runs so good I dont even care. Your fuel pressure will move around b/c the fuel regulator is vacuum referenced, so at idle and decel, the fuel pressure will get lower. WOT, you should have full system pressure - 43psi. This is provided your fuel system is ok - not sucking air, etc.

Ok, so I put the new plugs in. Fired up the car and locked the rpm's at 2,000. The ECU was showing 34 degrees of timing on the little handheld unit. I set the timing on the motor to 34 degrees. Ran the car for over 15 minutes at varying rpm's.

Everything is looking AND sounding good now. No more glowing headers, a nice smooth idle and really good throttle response. Time to do some road testing so the ECU can 'learn' that I like to drive fast.

And just to satisfy my curiosity I check the pulse width on the injectors at idle. I measured 1.96ms. I was told as long as it's under 2ms at idle it's good.

Thanks all for the replies...

The pulsewdith depends on injector size, engine size, coolant temp, RPM and many other variables. There is no rule about being "under 2 msec". If you have huge injectors (160-550) you usually don't want it to go BELOW a number or it may get into a non-linear region.