I did a search for breaking in an engine and it seems everyone was discussing the benefits of EOS.
What is it and how is it used specifically. :confused:

Engine Oil Supplement sold by GM dealers, prices from $6.75 to $9 a bottle. Don;t know the chemical composition, but it was recommended for break-in on my cam card, and even after 2500 miles on the engine, I'm still adding 1/2 a bottle to each change.

Wonder if its chemically akin to STP?

Originally posted by 427L88:
Engine Oil Supplement sold by GM dealers, prices from $6.75 to $9 a bottle. Don;t know the chemical composition, but it was recommended for break-in on my cam card, and even after 2500 miles on the engine, I'm still adding 1/2 a bottle to each change.

Wonder if its chemically akin to STP? Thanx, that clears that up ! graemlins/thumbsup.gif I will get some before time to crank mine up.

I just took a look at the last bottle I have and it said :

Polyolefin amide alkeneamide
Zinc dialkyldithiophospate
Sulfo hydrocarbon
Magnesium alkaryl sulfonate
Blended mineral oil

Hope this helps...

By the way...just for infor purposes...it is no longer called "Engine Oil Supplement" The bottle says "EOS Assembly Lube"

Originally posted by BillK:
By the way...just for infor purposes...it is no longer called "Engine Oil Supplement" The bottle says "EOS Assembly Lube" I bought some recently. It also says it's to be used as an assembly lube and is not intended to be added to oil! Is this some kind of CYA move by GM, or did they really change it, or... ?

Originally posted by Rabbit:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BillK:
By the way...just for infor purposes...it is no longer called "Engine Oil Supplement" The bottle says "EOS Assembly Lube" I bought some recently. It also says it's to be used as an assembly lube and is not intended to be added to oil! Is this some kind of CYA move by GM, or did they really change it, or... ? </font>[/QUOTE]Don't think they changed it. It is because it has Zinc in it & Zinc screws up cats. That's also why you don't want to use 10/30 or any oil with the starburst on it for cam break in. They are taking out the Zinc :(

Originally posted by Wolfplace:
Don't think they changed it. It is because it has Zinc in it & Zinc screws up cats. That's also why you don't want to use 10/30 or any oil with the starburst on it for cam break in. They are taking out the Zinc :( Thanks for the information! Are you saying that a single-grade 30 should be used for cam breakin rather than a multigrade?

Reid

It's what I usually use on the dyno along with EOS or Crane break in concentrate.

I heard the reason they changed the name is because GM specifically states in thier owners manuals that you should NOT use any type of oil additives. I guess its sort of a conflict to be selling them and then telling your customers not to use them ??? smile.gif Either way, the stuff works great.
Sort of along the same lines, I see where Valvoline has come out with a "Not street legal" line of oils. I have not looked into them any yet, but wonder if its an oil with more protection for flat tappet cams etc ? Probably not street legal because the additives will kill a catalytic converter.

MANY years ago (like back during the Civil War days), GM would NOT warranty a cam from the parts dept if you didn't buy and use a can of EOS when installing the cam (of course, how did they know if you did or did not use the EOS when you installed the cam???). So, I started using EOS in the early 60s and use a can with every engine build. I coat the lifters, pushrod tips, rocker balls and cam lobes. I've never had a failure.

No more zinc on motor oil? Man, isn't that pretty vital to protect against metal-to-metal scuffing under high loads? Bummer.

Something I thought was strange: On my last engine, I added the EOS for a cam break-in. While it was in there, the motor smoked quite a bit through the exhaust. Change the oil after break-in, no more smoke. Anybody else experience that?

Originally posted by DZAUTO:
MANY years ago (like back during the Civil War days), GM would NOT warranty a cam from the parts dept if you didn't buy and use a can of EOS when installing the cam (of course, how did they know if you did or did not use the EOS when you installed the cam???). So, I started using EOS in the early 60s and use a can with every engine build. I coat the lifters, pushrod tips, rocker balls and cam lobes. I've never had a failure. Hey Tom,,
Rremember when you went to Chevrolet & bought a cam & lifters & the EOS was in the box graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Holy crap am I showing my age :D

Originally posted by Wolfplace:
Remember when you went to Chevrolet & bought a cam & lifters & the EOS was in the boxDamn...I had forgotten about that! Just jolted the old memory banks.

Ah, you old farts! smile.gif

I felt kinda silly asking a question like "What is EOS ?", but I'm glad I did because here again, we all learned something new and I got a lot more info than I was originally searching for.
Thanks everybody......again graemlins/waving.gif

Originally posted by 427L88:
Ah, you old farts! smile.gif Thank you :D

OLD, Yes, Like when my buddy "Nuts" got me a -151 cam and set of gaskets back in the spring of '67 for my car and gave me change outta the $20 I gave him.

He worked at a big Dealership in Des Moines, IA and got it at cost!

He installed it for me and when I went to pay him, he said the grin on my face when she fired off was payment enough!! Needless ta say, I bought the "barley-pop" that day..

pdq67

I was told that Kendall GT still has zinc in it. I have been using it along with EOS during cam break ins so far no trouble. Even with the EX series cams.

Originally posted by Mike Feudo:
I was told that Kendall GT still has zinc in it. I have been using it along with EOS during cam break ins so far no trouble. Even with the EX series cams. Mike,
My understanding is regardless of brand all single weight & most 20/50's still have appreciable amounts of zinc in them & any oil that has the "starburst" logo on the bottle or is labeled "specially formulated for gasoline engines" or some crap like that either has none or a very limited amount.
If Kendall GT doesn't have the starburst you are probably right it will still have enough zinc to do some good.

Here's a couple of pretty good links to info about oils.
The first one shoud be required reading & the book he sells is well worth the money. Good info :D

http://motor-oil-bible.com/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

I sent several samples of oil to a lab earlier this year.I'll list what the report said as far as the various important elements in them.All are in parts per million.

Kendall GT-1 30W SL rated oil.

Moly.......... = 50
Calcium....... = 1780
Magnesium..... = 11
Phosphorus.... = 888
Zinc.......... = 976
-------------------------------------------------
Kendall GT-1 10W-30 SL rated " Starburst " oil.

Moly.......... = 46
Calcium ...... = 1716
Magnesium .... = 11
Phosphorus.... = 849
Zinc.......... = 947
--------------------------------------------------
Chevron Supreme 10W-30 SL rated " Starburst " oil.

Moly.......... = 65
Boron......... = 133
Calcium....... = 1814
Magnesium..... = 4
Phosphorus.... = 732
Zinc.......... = 879
--------------------------------------------------
Chevron Delo 15W-40 SJ/CH-4 ect ... Fleet oil.

Calcium....... = 3056
Magnesium..... = 6
Phosohorus.... = 1136
Zinc ......... = 1355
--------------------------------------------------
Kendall Super D3 15W-40 SJ/CH-4 .... Fleet Oil.

Boron......... = 100
Silicon....... = 8
Calcium ...... = 3118
Magnesium .... = 10
Phosphorus ... = 1086
Zinc.......... = 1233
---------------------------------------------------
Valvoline Maxlife 10W-40 SL rated oil

Moly.......... = 2
Magnesium..... = 11
Calcium....... = 2732
Phosphorus.... = 1092
Zinc.......... = 1086
---------------------------------------------------
As I understand it and I could be wrong but here is what they basically do....

Calcium is a Dispersant and Detergent.
Magnesium is a Dispersant and Detergent.
Boron is Anti wear/Anti Oxidant/ Friction Modifier.
Phoshorus is an Anti Wear .
Zinc is an Anti Wear.
Silicon is an Anti Foam.

I have heard that Phosphrous is the main problem with potentially wounding Cat Converters...SL rated oils were capped at 1000 PPM where as the older SJ and earlier oils were allowed larger amounts of PH.

I think the Starburst lable oils contain various friction modifiers to reduce viscous friction...All CAFE related....

You know, if you put some in your coffee, it's great for constipation! :D

Originally posted by 427L88:
Ah, you old farts! smile.gif Remember: old age and trickery will overcome youth and skill!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

That may answer a question I have about the wifes new Saturn. It states don't use 20-50 oil it will cause engine damage. I thought it was kind of strange considereing the old Saturn had almost 200,000 mi on it when it was stolen and had nothing but 20-50 in it. The statement was there to save the convertor not the motor. Thanks for the info I know what is going on with oils now.

Mike,

All of these trends in pushing lighter and lighter oils on us is basically CAFE related...The EPA is demanding longer emmission componut life and greater and greater fuel economy....

As engines have gotten much tighter controls on them with computor controlled everything....this is makeing the job of oil actually easier... The oil no longer has to contend with fuel dilution from a carb with a mal functioning choke...Todays stuff has a better control on collant temps , lack of lead in fuel ect ect ect...In the past higher additive amounts were needed in order to deal with all that stuff...Now the EPA is able to concentrate on stuff like Componut life and fuel economy and they are finding that certin oil additives can help or hurt these things....So they are mandating reductions of PH and maybe Zinc in order to help the life of componuts.....And the oil companies have found that if you reduce those anti wear agents too much the oils cant protect as well...So you may see in the future more additives like Moly and Boron and Antimony to help fortify the lower PH and Zinc levels.....Friction modifiers have been added to lighter oils as a fuel economy measure...That why most newer cars want the Starburst lable as only those are certified to have those FM additives....Doesnt mean others dont..but they havent been certified...and that cost big bucks.... All this for a potential 2% fuel economy bennifit.... But they will take all they econony increase they can get.

Every time they switch from say an SJ to an SL rating the recipie of all these oils change in order to conform to EPA and API specs....The oils we ran 10 years ago have little in common with what is on the shelf today...even tho it may look the same it's not.

One of the major problems that the oil companies and the car mfgs have is backward oil compatibility....IE tomarrows oil will be fine for tomarrows specs but will it still protect in an older engine ?...Imagine the API , EPA , Car Mfgs corpret reps all sitting around argueing on how to do this and still have current and backward compatability....politics....plain and simple...But it is a reality....

Al,
You are correct, it is the phosphorous & not the zinc that supposedly cause problems with cats.
Phosphorous & zinc are part of the additive package that is called ZDTP (zincdithiophosphate) & are almost always about the same in quantity.
I just call them zinc because I have to look up how to spell that other crap :D
As I mentioned before anyone interested in this should really pick up a copy of the motor oil bible. It really is great reference.
Goods stuff on both regular & synthetic oils
Not only that even I can almost understand it :D
The Motor Oil Bible (http://motor-oil-bible.com/)