: What is a 2 bolt 454 block worth?
Stikman33 May 5th, 03, 6:09 PM Hey guys, a friend of mine has a 454 2 bolt block that needs bored. He really doesn't know what he wants for it and it does need some machine work. How much should i offer him? If it is of course a gen 4 block and the decks and everything look good, cylinders need bored though. Also what would i be looking at in terms of machine work and how much it would cost. Thanks again.
Daniel
DZAUTO May 5th, 03, 6:53 PM Dan,
First of all, there is no way to know the true condition of the block until you take it to the machine shop, have it vatted and fully inspected, including magnafluxed in the critical areas. For example, there may be a crack in an area which you won't see just by looking at it closely.
BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, for the sake of discussion, let's just say that it is in good condition with the exception of the cylinders needing bored. ANY 454 block can easily go .060 over (but if .030 will clean it up, then stop there).
Unlike a small block, all BBs are the same, whether 2 bolt or 4bolt. By that, I mean the bottom end of a BB has the registers (the gap machined in the main web where the main cap fits) the same width for either a 2bolt or 4bolt. But, on a SB the registers are narrower for a 2bolt vs a 4bolt (except the SB400). SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, if you have a BB that is 2bolt, all that has to be done to convert it to 4bolt is locate a set of 4bolt caps, have them fitted to the 2bolt block and drill the holes for the outer bolts.
A set of 4bolt caps are not all that difficult to locate. The BB 366 truck engines all had 4bolt caps which are VERY commonly salvaged to convert 2bolt BBs to 4bolt. I have done this myself on a couple of BBs.
If you are building a healthy street/performance engine, TRUST ME, the 2bolt version is PLENTY strong, even if you also use a cast crank.
So, if the block is good, and he will negotiate, make your best deal (for a GOOD, bare block, $150-300 would be a good range.
Machine work is a big variable. Boring/honing is charged by the cylinder ($12-20 per cylinder). And it's extra to have it done with a torque plate (which you absolutely should pay extra for!). It will need to be vatted and inspected. It MAY need to be line honed (true up the main bores for the crank), but I have NEVER built an engine that needed it. It may need to have the decks surfaced, and again, I have only had this done on a VERY few blocks. Don't have the decks surfaced if they are flat and square (a good machinist can easily check this for you). You SHOULD have the machine shop go ahead and install the cam bearings and freeze plugs (pay extra for brass plugs). If the block doesn't need anything additional, then JUST BLOCK MACHINE WORK ONLY (no crank work, balance, head work, etc, etc) may be $250-350. It is possible that you may get by with a little less, but if I were you, I'd go to the machine shop with 4 crisp $100 bills in my pocket-------------------just in case.
mr 4 speed May 5th, 03, 7:01 PM What Tom said...and again,the block would have to check out OK
Clint44 May 5th, 03, 7:03 PM Just for a comparison,a friend of mine just sold a four bolt,.030 over 454" block for $400. It came out of a 1981 1 ton pickup and was in excellent shape.
Tom's right about the strength issue. A two bolt BBC block is very strong.
Johnny O May 5th, 03, 9:48 PM I bought a stock bore block last season, two bolt, (its still sitting in the garage) for 100 bucks. It was supposed to be my 496 for this year, but now it looks like next season. John
DZAUTO May 5th, 03, 11:02 PM I have since done a little editing and adding to my original reply.
Stikman33 May 6th, 03, 1:02 AM Ok guys, this is the situation. I have a 402 block .040 over already prepped and ready to go. I saw these this 454 block for sale and i offered him 100 bucks for it and he thought that was reasonable. Situation being though i already have the whole rotating assemble for the 402 ready except the pistons. SoOOOO, i was thinking of swapping everything over and doing a 427 instead. I don't know though if around another 500 total is worth another 17 cubes, since with the .040 over i am already at 410 cubes. What do you guys think? I don't think it is worth it, although there is no replacement for displacement, and if the desire ever struck me i could throw a longer crank at it and really get crazy. Thanks guys.
Daniel
427L88 May 7th, 03, 2:02 PM Well to be fair, my 427 is .063 over or just under 440ci, so you're getting 30 cubes!
I'd buy the block if its a $100 and pull a Johnny O, plan your next engine! ( I have the ol L88 block "in the wings' for likely a 496.)
Stikman33 May 7th, 03, 3:55 PM I think i am going to do it. The cubes seem to outweigh the money. Of course this is contingent on checking out the blocks on friday. There is actually two to choose from.
Daniel
pdq67 May 7th, 03, 9:52 PM You may be able to buy a rebuildable 454 core P/U engine for like $300 to maybe $500..
And try to pick one with either the -781 or -049 open chambered large oval heads or plan on picking up a set of closed chambers like -215's, large oval and the like..
My core cost me $300 years ago and is now my 496!!
pdq67
Stikman33 May 7th, 03, 10:59 PM pdq67, situation being i was days away from assembling my 402. My crank, 215 heads, intake, carb, oil pan, everything was in place except the pistons. I had just cc'd the heads and was ready to order then right before i found out about this. So really i already have 215 heads with the large valves and a little port work that will due me just fine smile.gif . I also talked to my machinist today and he said he would bore the block, deck the heads, and install cam bearings for 280. So as long as the block passes i will be doing it.
Daniel
10secBu May 8th, 03, 7:48 AM I'd much prefer a 427/454 block due to the 4.250" bore. This will give much better flow through the heads due to less shrouding around the valves in the chanber by the bore walls.
The cube difference might not seem much, but the more efficient air flow through the entire engine (with the larger 454 bore) will make a noticable difference IMO.
I'd go for it just because I'd love to build a 427! But seriously, For $100, you really can't go wrong if the block is usable with some cleanup. If it's already like .060" over, than maybe not. Around here, decent builders usually go for $300-$500 complete.
Good luck,
Bill C.
Stikman33 May 8th, 03, 8:40 PM I know what you mean BC. Not only will the 427 be some relatively cheap horsepower, and a good starter for something more someday, and flow better because of less shrouding, etc.....
But, there is something cool about the 427. I have always like the sound of that name smile.gif The physics of it have always made sense to me also. A relatively short stroke with the large bore enables it to rev fast but at the same time have good torque. With my solid UD 272/282f12 cam i have from harold this thing should rip. I can't wait. I check out the blocks tomarrow.
Daniel
Well, if you find them to be good and want to buy both and then maybe bring one out to Colorado, I'd sure appreciate it! ;) I'll even pay you double for the block if it's known good! :D I have a set of 781 heads, a steel 396 crank, and several other BBC goodies just waiting to find the right block for that 427 build!
Anyway, best of luck,
Bill C.
| |