Ok stupid question here [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Ok stupid question here


AZ_40
Mar 12th, 11, 5:29 PM
Ive been struggling with this drum assembly for the last day and a half or so....it just wont budge from the lower ball joint, the boots are popped, am I missing something? excuse my ignorance.....

mryanduv
Mar 12th, 11, 6:01 PM
can't tell from the pic, but i'm gonna guess the springs already out. it's usually easier to pop that joint loose while the spring is still in there by jacking under the frame & letting the suspension hang unsupported. back the nut off a couple of turns & have at it with a BFH. only guess i have now is try a little pb blaster, & heat the spindle a bit, then go at it with a pickle fork...

AZ_40
Mar 12th, 11, 6:53 PM
The springs in there but the arm is hanging.....scratch that just went outside for another round raised the LCA with the jack hit it with the BFH and nothing, soaked it in some pb lets see what happens.....and what nut do you speak of? the castle?......thanks for the responce

azchevs
Mar 12th, 11, 9:36 PM
Nick, Are you using a pickle fork? I have one for the upper and one for the lower I can lend you. Joe

AZ_40
Mar 12th, 11, 9:51 PM
Yeah but it just wont budge, still at it and nothing, im thinking of just cutting it off and buying a new joint

Ed.Camino
Mar 12th, 11, 10:44 PM
Not sure what you got going on there but it dont look right, and looks like someone could get hurt.
Recommend you do the following. I'm assuming the upper arm is still connected at the spindle and frame, front of the car is on stands and rear wheels chocked

If it is not, disregard this message.

Put the nut (castled) back on the ball joint. Doesnt need to be tight just bottomed.
Reinstall the lower arm and bolts in the chassis, put the nuts on just to keep them from falling out.
Put a floor jack under the ball joint with about 1/4" of clearance. Or secure a chain around the chassis and lower arm that will allow no more than 1/4" travel when the joint pops.
Loosen the lower ball joint nut about 1/4"
Now hit the front of knuckle HARD with at least a 32 oz. hammer at the arrow in the pic. Hit it like your trying to break it. Or have at it with the pickle fork.
The joint should pop in 3-5 hits, you'll see this has happened cause the nut will be down on the knuckle.
Now you should be able to raise the jack under the ball joint to take the tension off the nut. Remove the nut, lower the jack slightly and pull on the spindle to clear the backing plate, and lower the jack slowly to release tension on the spring.
Get a manual or log on to Autozone.com repair or do some other research to get familiar with this kinda thing.
It you get hurt it aint fun no more.

DONTWANT2
Mar 12th, 11, 10:46 PM
It will come. You may try the pickle fork, then get a bigger BFH. I have had a couple that where a real PITA.

AZ_40
Mar 12th, 11, 11:35 PM
Not sure what you got going on there but it dont look right, and looks like someone could get hurt.
Recommend you do the following. I'm assuming the upper arm is still connected at the spindle and frame, front of the car is on stands and rear wheels chocked

If it is not, disregard this message.

Put the nut (castled) back on the ball joint. Doesnt need to be tight just bottomed.
Reinstall the lower arm and bolts in the chassis, put the nuts on just to keep them from falling out.
Put a floor jack under the ball joint with about 1/4" of clearance. Or secure a chain around the chassis and lower arm that will allow no more than 1/4" travel when the joint pops.
Loosen the lower ball joint nut about 1/4"
Now hit the front of knuckle HARD with at least a 32 oz. hammer at the arrow in the pic. Hit it like your trying to break it. Or have at it with the pickle fork.
The joint should pop in 3-5 hits, you'll see this has happened cause the nut will be down on the knuckle.
Now you should be able to raise the jack under the ball joint to take the tension off the nut. Remove the nut, lower the jack slightly and pull on the spindle to clear the backing plate, and lower the jack slowly to release tension on the spring.
Get a manual or log on to Autozone.com repair or do some other research to get familiar with this kinda thing.
It you get hurt it aint fun no more.

yeah i have stands and even one under the LCA as well as a jack....so I suppose my 16 oz. BluePoint is to small? and just to clarify im supposed to hit the bottom of the drum assembly? thank you for the in-depth answer and support

mryanduv
Mar 13th, 11, 12:21 AM
if you're using a 16 ouncer, you're just pecking at it! i've always used what looks like a baby sledge, with a 16 inch handle, & i think it's a 5 pounder. as ed said, BFH, & smack it HARD right on the outside of the lower part of the spindle, directly outside of where the ball joint stud goes up through it. you'll have to position yourself so you can get a nice long even swing at it. & be really mean when ya smack it. it'll break loose.

Ed.Camino
Mar 13th, 11, 10:28 AM
yeah i have stands and even one under the LCA as well as a jack....so I suppose my 16 oz. BluePoint is to small? and just to clarify im supposed to hit the bottom of the drum assembly? thank you for the in-depth answer and support

16 oz aint gonna get it, a 5 lb seems a little heavy but would do it.
Not sure what you mean by drum assembly. You want to hit the spindle where the ball joint stud passes thru it.
Or use the fork as shown here. ( about 2 minutes in)
YouTube - Front Coil Spring Removal using Floorjack
Wear gloves if you got 'em
What is it that trying to do ? Replace the lower ball joint? upper too ? Bushings?

JWagner
Mar 13th, 11, 11:10 AM
One technique that can work well is shown in the shop manual. Use TWO hammers. Put one behind the joint, like an anvil and whack in front of the joint. It seems to work with smaller hammers, like the kind I have. Any time you are separating these joints it is a really good idea to put the nut back on the joint and turn it until it is near the spindle.

zombie1969
Mar 13th, 11, 11:59 AM
LOL is all I'm gonna do.That spindle is FD up.Too bad because the drum brake spindles work perfect for the vett brake swap if that's what it is.BTW a little 3lbr from home depot is what I use for most everything up to medium duty trucks.

AZ_40
Mar 13th, 11, 2:00 PM
LOL is all I'm gonna do.That spindle is FD up.Too bad because the drum brake spindles work perfect for the vett brake swap if that's what it is.BTW a little 3lbr from home depot is what I use for most everything up to medium duty trucks.





you shoulda came in a week ago before I got my conversion kit in :yes:


thanks everyone for the help team chevelle has helped me out alot




but....for the win.....

(didn't have a hammer so i found an old broken honda axle)