just got a rebuilt 327 from a credited rebuild shop ,my question ? are 1962 through 1967 327 crankshafts drilled and tapped for the dampner retaining bolt,or do you just use the tool to pull the dampner on to the crankshaft?and hope it stays on, this thing is not drilled and that dont seem right,as a matter of fact, sounds scary to me ,I need a defenate answer on this one guys----thanks 67rat -member # 199

They werent drilled, had no hole, and no way to pull them on with a tool either. Only way I know of to put one on is to drive it on. Only thing that holds it on is the press fit, no bolt.

I have never seen a SB crank that wasn't at least drilled??

Drill and tap it to be sure!!

My old UNBALANCED junk 301 used ta throw it's damper pretty regularly and the last time I just got another and beat it on and kept right on trucking!!!

I could count the rpm's by the harmonic vibrations as it went upstairs to above 7,000rpm!!! About four of them...

pdq67

PDQ.... the small journal cranks were not drilled. 265...283... 327... all the early years.

thanks guys,never seen a chevy crank not drilled either,till now,but never had a 62--67 327 either,this motor is going in my 62 chevy 4x4 truck, 4500 rpm is tops,if that. but still sound scary not having that bolt,I SUCK at drilling and tapping holes,thats scaryer yet,how can I drill it strait with a hand drill? i know very carefully!TAPPING IS NO PROBLEM!----67rat member 199

oh yea,manual says theres a tool to push it on,think it goes across the front of the block and pushes it on!just thought I would ad that note,what tool?,never seen one,who knows?probly long forgotten---67rat

stalking bear,right to the point and answered my question ,thanks--67rat

I beg to differ on the drilling issue, at least as it pertains to 65-67 327's. Every 327 350/365/375HP small block I have ever seen with the 8" balancer were drilled and bolted from the factory! That includes a 1965 L79 Chevelle, 1966 L79 Nova and a 1966 L79 Corvette I owned many moons ago.

Dave

If it is out of the car Take it back to the machine shop and have them drill, tap and install the balancer. They should have the parts to do this correctly.

Neither my 1964 327, nor my 1967 283 are drilled for a crank bolt. I've had both engines north of 6,000 rpms and the balancer stayed on just fine.

Next time I have either crank out, I'll have them drilled though. Makes it a lot easier to use a socket to crank the motor over!

Mike

I guess I never looked all that close..

I just figured the center point where I put the damper puller's "V-tip" was the hole, but guess not always drilled deep enough...

Heck, wait a minute, didn't I always center punch my damper bolt, (less washer), and then put the "V-tip" there??

It's been too long??

pdq67

My all stock, all original '65 L79 had a crank that was drilled and tapped but never ever had a bolt in it. I've added one since for security but it ran many years before I had it and many years after I had it without one and I never had a problem. I don't know if it was drilled and tapped at the factory or later. The only time the previous owner ever had the engine out was to re-ring the engine once after he broke a few by revving it up a bit too much when it was still cold.

On my Son's 66 327 the crank wasn't drilled. I had it drilled and tapped at a local machine shop, they charged $60! It sure was nice to be able to use the install tool to put the balancer on, and good piece of mind that the bolt offered. All 283 cranks I've ever seen were not drilled. We used a Competition Products balancer at an economical price of $45, wasn't worth using the original balancer as the elastomer was going bad IMO.