the two bolts on both sides of the intake next to carb are leaking oil. i've cleaned them up and coated the bolts with rtv sealer and within a few miles the small puddles are back. is there oil in that part of the heads? i thought only coolant was there. i use the stainless steel bolts, could they be not grabbing as well as they should? someone mentioned it could be the valve covers but looking at the engine that doesn't seem possible? thanks for the help.

I dont like RTV for sealing threads. Try some permatex #2 non hardening sealer, it should be available at any good parts store. Clean up the threads and put that on before installing the bolt. I have never had a thread leak using it.

Dave is right on this one.
I had the same problem on my intake, I used the non hardening avation permatex. Got it from napa and no puddles to this day

Also, are you using a split lock washer under the bolt head? If so, as the oil seeps up around the threads, the split in the washer is where the oil comes out. Try to locate some A.N. flat washers. These are "aircraft" type washers which have a small outside diameter (about the same size a split lock washer). I have found that those small, flat washers that come from the factory under the heads of exhaust manifold bolts are perfect! When you pull the bolt down good and tight (ESPECIALLY if you use a sealer on each side of the washer) the "crush" will conform the washer to the manifold and bolt head and make a good seal.

thanks guys.i pulled the manifold and noticed that the gasket didn't seem as compressed in that area as the rest of it did. i use the hex bolts and probably didn't get enough torque on these hard to reach bolts. also is there a difference in the "grabbing" from the threads of reg. steel bolts compared to stainless bolts. they almost seem to back out. i remember re-torqueing them three times?
thanks again, john :cool:

oooops sorry

I have two quick questions, because I am experiencing the same problem. How much should you torque the bolts down, and which are better, reg steel or stainless? TIA. graemlins/beers.gif

I would use regular bolts and torque them to 25 ft/lbs. Stainless bolts are softer.

I don't "torque" intake manifold bolts. I tighten them until they stop by using an end wrench with a 6-point boxed end or a 6-point swivel socket end (this way I'm not over torquing the bolts). About every 2wks or so, I go back and tighten all 12 bolts (work out from the center). It may take several weeks to several months for everything to finally take a final seat. Then about 1yr later, I check them again.
On the nice, or show engines, I use stainless. On my boat engine, EVERYTHING is stainless (except head bolts of course!).

the original leak that i had was corrected when i replaced the cam. the intake gasket wasen't completely compressed in the center. i was using the internal hex stainles bolts. (their pretty) i just couldn't getr enough umph when tightening with a hex wrench, couldn't feel it?? anyway i used some regular steel hex bolts and torqued them to 30 pounds and re checked them after cool down. they sealed right up. ;)