I needed to replace a guideplate and in the process of removing the rocker stud, it snapped in two graemlins/clonk.gif . I pretty much expected it to happen since I'm sure that they've been in there for over 30 years.

I guess I'm going to have to pull the head and have the machine shop fix it, but wanted to make sure that was my only option. Do you think I should just replace the broken one, or go ahead and have the shop replace all of them? I'm sure they'll have to machine each one. Thanks, Scot

Scot; If they're numbers matching heads, I'd have them all replaced. If not, and if they are in need of a rebuild, I'd consider new heads.

Steve

What motor are you running? I guess a SB with press in studs? You can do this without pulling the heads. Are you running a high lift cam? If so check your rocker arms and make sure they are the long slot. No way I would pull my heads for this unless you need to freshen them.

Sorry about that, I’m running a 402 BBC with stock heads and screw in studs. Long slot rockers, new springs for the cam. Cam has about .550/.555 lift. The heads were freshened up when I rebuilt the motor, so my only reason for pulling this one would be to fix the broken stud, so is there a better option for me? Thanks for any help! Scot

Why pull your heads??

BB studs screw in!!

Unscrew the sucker, put a little "daub" of good old, Permatex, "Indianhead Shellac Gasket Cement" on a new stud's threads, install it, torque to 50 pounds and you are done...

pdq67

Quick.
Before you pull the head, I would almost bet you could get the remains of the stud out fairly easily. First of all, try using a good, small center punch and see if you can get it to move. Unless it was locktited in place, once the "nut" part breaks off, there should not be much tension on the stud and it should come right out. Worse case, maybe buy a left hand drill bit and start drilling, it will probably come out for sure then. I hesitate suggesting an easy out becasue it seems that everyone manages to break them, then it is a pain to get them out.
You could also use a dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel to fgrind a slot in the top of the stud and then turn it out with a screwdriver bit.

Originally posted by 1Quik7D:
Sorry about that, I’m running a 402 BBC with stock heads and screw in studs. Long slot rockers, new springs for the cam. Cam has about .550/.555 lift. The heads were freshened up when I rebuilt the motor, so my only reason for pulling this one would be to fix the broken stud, so is there a better option for me? Thanks for any help! Scot Do you have a Mig?
If it is tight, set an old nut on top of the broken stud & stick the mig gun on top of the nut & pull the trigger.
The heat will also take care of any locktite of present.
After welding, squirt the thing with WD or some other penetrating oil.
I use this method on almost all broken bolts & studs in heads, blocks, manifolds etc. both cast & aluminum & have yet to have it fail although in some cases it takes a few tries to get it done ;)
I have a drawer full of old rod nuts just for this purpose,,,
You might want to cover up everything around it so you don't put a bunch of crap into your engine.
A piece of aluminum flashing with a hole in it works great

Thanks for all the replies! I'm a little nervous about trying to get the broken stud out myself since it seems I have the worse luck. I think I'll at least try some of the suggestions.

From what I could tell, the threaded part of the stud didnt budge at all...I was just turning the nut part until the stud broke.

All of this trouble becuase of a bent pushrod, and I'm still not sure what caused that!

Just a quick update for everyone...

First off a big THANKS to everyone for making me think twice about pulling the heads!!

After I got to thinking (and checking the torque wrench), I had a really bad feeling that since I was so worried about breaking the rocker stud (which I did anyway), that I was accidentally TIGHTENING the stud graemlins/clonk.gif Sure enough, I removed all the other ones without any problems...how could I have been so stupid? It's hard to imagine that my first project turned out so well when I make bone head mistakes like that!

My Chevelle (http://photos.yahoo.com/thekrkndls@sbcglobal.net)

Anyway, I thought I'd try an easy out first, and PRESTO, the little bugger came right out!

Thanks to everyone! You save me a ton of money, frustration, and sanity!

Scot

Scott,
On more footnote since you brought it up "and checking the torque wrench" A torque wrench should NEVER be used for loosening fasteners. Best way to get it out of calibration. Only exception is the dial type, or old beam type which can be used in either direction.