Most (actually all) of what I've been able to find has been people tossing the drums in favor of a disc setup, but I already have power discs on my 71. Brakes are something I know little about, but I'd like to upgrade to something more substantial and fade-resistant up front and I'm wondering what would work. I have 18 inch wheels and it should be fairly easy to get some corvette or f-body brakes over on ls1tech or craigslist. Surely someone else has done this, and any information would be most appreciated.

You have alot of options really and theres lots of information out there.

http://pozziracing.com/12_corvette_brakes_on_fgen.htm

you will have to change the master cylinder and the prop valve to a drm/drum distribution block.

other than that, slap some brakes on it and be done.

kore3 c5 brackets, and braided lines.
c5 loaded calipers and napa rotors
98-02 fbody 12" rear disk assembled
loaded calipers and napa rotors again.

works fine for me!

cpp 15/16 master cylinder (but i run manual brakes). wilwood adjustable prop valve.

the thing you have to worry more about is if the spokes will interfere with the front face of the caliper on a c5 set up.

aaron

Go to kore3.com and DL the template. If your wheels will clear, your in business.

I am starting my C5 brake swap next month. I sourced used calipers, rotors, pads locally for $250. Buy the lines and brackets from kore3.

Okay, thanks guys. I was thinking I'd leave the rear alone for now, but figured I might as well tackle the front while I'm busy on that end with the ls swap. I'll check out core3 and start looking around for some C5 calipers. Would I have to change the master cylinder and prop valve if I plan to keep my rear drums for now?
Bowtie, are you using c5 calipers in the rear or pretty much a complete rear fbody setup?
I had read about having to pull the axles to swap the rear, and I just spent too much $$ getting an eaton posi and new gears thrown in to make me want to open the diff back up.

Okay, thanks guys. I was thinking I'd leave the rear alone for now, but figured I might as well tackle the front while I'm busy on that end with the ls swap. I'll check out core3 and start looking around for some C5 calipers. Would I have to change the master cylinder and prop valve if I plan to keep my rear drums for now?
Bowtie, are you using c5 calipers in the rear or pretty much a complete rear fbody setup?
I had read about having to pull the axles to swap the rear, and I just spent too much $$ getting an eaton posi and new gears thrown in to make me want to open the diff back up.

I got my loaded calipers (comes with calipers, abutment brackets, and pads) from partsgeek.com for $91/ea, brand new PBR replacements.
I think you might be able to keep it with drums in the rear, but when you go disk you need to swap it out to the correct bore size to keep a good pedal feel and apply the correct amount of pressure.
C5 and Fbody calipers are basically the same thing. The rotors are different though, and so are the abutment bracket/backing plate brackets.
To put the disks on the rear all you need to do is pull the axle unbolt the drum brake junk, bolt on the caliper mounting bracket (use the left side for the right and the right on the left so you can still use the parking brake cables). Then work on centering the caliper on the rotor.. you may need to shim the backing plate brackets about .125-.1875” but its worth it.

I have a write up on this its very simple.

http://www.sloppymechanics.com/archive/cat_aaronschevelle.html

aaron

Nice. Thanks. Looks like all four wheels can be done fairly cheaply.

Aaron, have you ever tested your stopping distance after that swap? Like 60-0 or w/e

i went from 4 wheel drums to 4 wheel disks with C5 up front/rear.

huge difference in stopping.

they do not fade at all like the drums did.
i did have a friend with me when i made a fast stop to see how well they worked, he braced himself and still almost ate the dash.

i have about 14 passes at the track at over 100mph trap speeds and it stops good every time, no fade, and consistent.
although it does need a good pad to really use the potential, but the factory replacement pad works okay.

aaron

nice :)