I've got an HEI that just cuts out with no spark at random when it's warm. When it's cold like overnight it starts right back up. I've replaced the module and coil with no change. What are the symptoms of a bad condensor? Any ideas on anything else that can be wrong?

Otherwise it's running excellent. When it dies, it just quits running as I'm driving along and won't restart.

I've got an HEI that just cuts out with no spark at random when it's warm. When it's cold like overnight it starts right back up. I've replaced the module and coil with no change. What are the symptoms of a bad condensor? Any ideas on anything else that can be wrong?

Otherwise it's running excellent. When it dies, it just quits running as I'm driving along and won't restart.

that sounds like it could be a fuel filter problem.:yes:

Where is the HEI positive wire getting its power from? It could be a connection problem from the positive wiring.

I changed the fuel filter and opened up the Quadrajet to see if any crap was plugging the jets. It was completely clean inside. I replaced the carb and it fired right up and ran nice and smooth. I was warming it up to adjust the timing. I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start. At least I didn't have to tow it home like the last two times.

Condensor in an HEI is simply an EMI supression device to keep ignition and radio noise seperate.

Where is the HEI positive wire getting its power from? It could be a connection problem from the positive wiring.
x2 :D

The Distributor is getting it's voltage from the Starter solenoid. It reads 13 volts when it's not starting.

Pick-up coil in the dizzy will cause that problem.
Ask me how I know. Mine would crank most of the time and always when cold. After getting up to temp, it would sometimes not crank after I shut it off.
No spark to the plugs. Cool down and bingo I had spark again.
Changed the pick-up coil and never had the problem again.

Pick-up coil in the dizzy will cause that problem.
Ask me how I know. Mine would crank most of the time and always when cold. After getting up to temp, it would sometimes not crank after I shut it off.
No spark to the plugs. Cool down and bingo I had spark again.
Changed the pick-up coil and never had the problem again.

It can be checked easily with an ohm meter across the 2 wires. Use a vacuum pump to move the advance plate and see if you loose continuity. I have seen the wires break from the pivoting movement and make contact sometimes and not others.

Ya it's the Reluctor/Stator heat expands them and they stop working cools off and it will run till hot again. Attached an article how to remove it:http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition2/Ignition%202b.htm

>>> "The Distributor is getting it's voltage from the Starter solenoid. It reads 13 volts when it's not starting."

Better check that again. really can't power the HEI from the solenoid, it's only hot while cranking. Some of the old cars that had points distributors had a wire running for the R post on the solenoid to the + terminal on the coil. This fed direct battery voltage to the coil during starting, bypassing the resistance wire that runs from the bulkhead connector to the coil +. This wire is only powered while the starter is cranking.

Are you still using the fabric covered resistance wire to feed the HEI? this won't work reliably.

battery voltage should about 12.8 with everything off. 13.8 to 14.2 running.

Hi Tom,

The problem is not where power is coming from. The + side of the coil is getting power reliably at all times. The problem is that there's no spark when hot. It started right up this morning after it sat all night and was good and cold. After it warms up it loses spark.

i would replace the distributor with a spare and wire the RED wire to fuse box or ignition switch. can use a relay for reliability. i second not to get Dist. 12 volts from starter solenoid. what year car? i reviewd 64-72 wiring diagrams....