A few days ago I was searching this site and found a link for tuning Holley carbs, but like a dumb a$$, I didn't bookmark it and now I can't find the link again after an hour of searching. Does anyone now the sire I'm referring to?

I'm about fed up with this Holley SA 770. With engine running, I can barely keep my eyes open in the garage, and my cloths smell like gas from it running so rich

I can't get it idle under 1000, no matter what I try, and it idles at around 2000 RPM, when I start it, even if the engine is already at operating temp

Seriously considering a new carb, but want to take one more crack at adjusting this one. It's still had factory jets and metering block, but not even sure what they are. I have an assortment of Holley jets

The car seems to run really good, but just way to rich and that high idle is kind of embarrassing

Engine is a 71 402, AC R44TS plugs, stock fuel pump, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake, Lunati 268/276 (60203) cam, approx 9.25:1 CR

I know the carb issue has been beaten to death here, but any suggestions, or link to the above mentioned website would be greatly appreciated

If your browser doesn't clear out it's history often ,look there for the link.

Have you tried a new power valve? something else seems to be causing the idle problem. Check vaccuum, timing. You should set the timing first, then you should beable to adjust the idle down and if you look at the primary butterflys there is a vertical slot in the baseplate where the butterfly is and it should just barely be opening up into that. If you have the butteryflys open farther into that slot it will be feeding alot more fuel, perhaps there is a vaccum leak? and you have to have the idle set that high, which causes more fuel. Start with the basics

Have you tryed holley.com ? Good stuff there.

Have you tryed holley.com ?

Good stuff there.


You can download notebooks full
of troubleshooting & tuning info
at the Holley website. Get it all...it's free. :thumbsup:

One careful step at a time works best. :yes:

Why/how any one just jumps into their carb
"trying this-trying that" with no experience
or w/o any detailed Holley model-specific manual
like it's just like a Lego or Lincoln Logs set...

And then usually blame it on the carburetor!

Is this the one you're talking about?

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

A few days ago I was searching this site and found a link for tuning Holley carbs, but like a dumb a$$, I didn't bookmark it and now I can't find the link again after an hour of searching. Does anyone now the sire I'm referring to?

I'm about fed up with this Holley SA 770. With engine running, I can barely keep my eyes open in the garage, and my cloths smell like gas from it running so rich

I can't get it idle under 1000, no matter what I try, and it idles at around 2000 RPM, when I start it, even if the engine is already at operating temp

Seriously considering a new carb, but want to take one more crack at adjusting this one. It's still had factory jets and metering block, but not even sure what they are. I have an assortment of Holley jets

The car seems to run really good, but just way to rich and that high idle is kind of embarrassing

Engine is a 71 402, AC R44TS plugs, stock fuel pump, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake, Lunati 268/276 (60203) cam, approx 9.25:1 CR

I know the carb issue has been beaten to death here, but any suggestions, or link to the above mentioned website would be greatly appreciated

Sourced from Bob2000.com

Inconsistent idle speed.
Many people lately have been asking me about idle problems where they will set the idle at 800 or so, then when they drive the car or boat, the idle only comes back to 1500 or so. When they blip the throttle, it will come back to 800. This problem is very likely NOT the carburetor, but the linkage from the pedal to the carb, especially if the car (or boat) has a wire cable linkage.
To diagnose the problem, disconnect the linkage at the carburetor, and manually move the throttle with the engine running. If it comes back to the idle set point, then the problem is in the linkage, which will require repair or replacement. If it doesn’t come back to the idle set point, the problem is in the carb, possibly in the choke’s fast idle linkage. If the linkage is dirty, spray it with carb cleaner. If you're using a spacer or adapter, those can cause interference with the throttle plates, and will need to be fixed.
Occasionally, an engine will have a poor ground, and electricity will seek ground through the throttle cable, making it hot enough to melt the plastic housing. If you see evidence of a hot throttle cable, be sure to check your engine to chassis ground.
Inconsistent idle speed can also be caused by a sticky mechanical advance in your distributor, a particular problem on boats, where corrosion is a major factor. A visual inspection of the advance mechanism is highly recommended.
Another cause of inconsistent idle speed is sticky throttle valves, especially the secondaries on vacuum secondary carbs. Stickiness can be caused by excessive wear, but is most likely corrosion or gumminess from disuse, as in boats and other seasonal engines. The secondaries are held closed by two devices: The spring inside the vacuum actuator, and the link that goes from the primary throttle lever to the closer slot on the secondary throttle valve. In some cases, the actuator spring is relatively light, and doesn't exert much force. If the closer link is not bent just right to touch the slot enough to fully close the secondaries, you will experience a situation where the idle speed will not come down after the secondaries are used. You will need to clean the throttle plate and/or rebend the closer link to get the secondaries closed properly.

Is this the one you're talking about?

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm


Nice website you found.:yes::thumbsup:

Nice website you found.:yes::thumbsup:


I think I saw that site referenced here some time ago - really good info there.

The guy's a little cranky, but then - so am I. :D

Is this the one you're talking about?

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

Yes Dave, that's the one I was looking for, Thanks :thumbsup: I found the DVD that came with the carb, and that was also helpful

I kind of fixed my idle problem, (adjusted the fast idle cam setting) but it's still running real rich. So rich that my clothes smell like gas after driving. I haven't had a change to step down in jet size, and not even sure that would help

If it's that rich (to cling & permeate your clothing),
you're washing your cylinder walls with gas fouled
oil. The more it's run, the more fuel in the oil.

Limit any more than the very minimum running time
until the carb is replaced or repaired, and change
oil & filter ASAP.

Sometimes a hung up idle speed is due to the weights in the distributor sticking or springs being permanently expanded. I had this issue with a points dist., lubed up the pivot points on the weights, put in a new set of Mr. Gasket 928 springs, and voila! Rock solid idle speed....Another possible cause of this is running your dist. on manifold vacuum and not not having the right can for your app.

The jets and PV have nothing to do with the idle mix. what happens when you screw the idle mix screws in? The ones on the side of the primary metering block.

Is this a 4-corner idle carb?

The jets and PV have nothing to do with the idle mix. what happens when you screw the idle mix screws in? The ones on the side of the primary metering block.

Is this a 4-corner idle carb?

Engine dies out if I screw in the idle mixture screws to far. I connected a vacuum gauge, and adjusted them for max vacuum, is that correct?

I also swapped out the jets (72) and tried 69's. Seems to make no difference at all. Also not sure what a "4-corner idle carb" is?

I checked my gas mileage a few days ago, just to get an idea what I might be getting. Filled up, drove 80 miles, filled up again. Took 13.9 gallons, so that is 5.75 MPG :eek: I'm not sure how accurate that is though, since I now have 15" tires rather then the stock 14's. The oil does have a slight smell of gas in it also. I think I may hunt around for a Quadrajet and dump this Holley

I had the same problem with a 670 SA. turns out i used the wrong gasket beween the primary metering block and the body. The correct gasket has a small hole over the power valve. The incorrect gasket leaves the entire powervalve completely uncovered and it pulls massive amounts of fuel through it. I would check that first. Both gaskets come with the kit so its easy to use the wrong one.

I got this from a different thread with the same issue

Wrong One
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/108-91-2/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/108-91-2/10002/-1)

Right one
http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/108-89-2/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/108-89-2/10002/-1)