Thinking it may need everything? but would like to start at getting it working then repair/restore as needed.
What 1st ?
ps don't tell but its a 65 Cutlass, Olds sites are sorta slow :D

Not sure why you would need everything?Mine is all original (except the cloth top) and works great.You try working it yet?Whats the problem?

Well its sat for years before I got it and I've had it a few years now and have just left the top down.(have to manually force it up and down) Engine is tired so it only goes out on short trips/sunny days.
I am hoping for the best, bracing for the worst.
I have yet to even test for voltage, look for leaks etc.
Due to other projects, so I'm looking for a starting place for when I'm ready to dig in, soon I hope.

Well let's start: does it make any noise when you move the switch? If not, you need to get a multimeter or test lamp and measure for voltage at both sides of the switch. That'll give us a starting point

Well let's start: does it make any noise when you move the switch? If not, you need to get a multimeter or test lamp and measure for voltage at both sides of the switch. That'll give us a starting point

No noise, no nothing. I will test the switch see if power is getting there 1st.

Check the fuse. If it is blowing the fuse, you need to find the dead short.

If it is not blowing the fuse, you need to test for circuit continuity. It could be as simple as a bad switch or loose wire at the switch or motor. On my 65 Chevelle, all the wiring to the aft end of the car is through a band which runs under the driver's seat and under the driver's side of the back seat. There is a plug in coupling under the driver's side of the back seat. On my car, the plastic coupling cracked, causing a circuit discontinuity. I could not find a replacement part and just did a work around.

If all of that is in order, the motor could be bad. It's not likely to be the pump. If it were seized, the motor would make some noise or at least cause a big drop on your volt meter. On my car, the top motor is one of the biggest power draws on the electrical system.

Mine doesnt have a fuse rather a 30amp breaker(original breaker) on the fire wall that gets its power from the main power on the starter then it goes to the switch (original switch)and has a green and a red wire that go to the motor from the switch.Mine doesnt seem to draw much power and works smooth.All original knock on wood.Its about as simple as it can get so shouldnt be hard to check it all out fairly quick.The hydrolics are a push pull cylinder so just fill the pump no mater where the top is at with atf if needed.