Whenever I do A small burnout I get a rear wheel hop. If I do a burn out In reverse it has no problem. I have a 69 chevelle with a 396, 4 spd, and 373 gears, I have a sway bar on the rear. No noise or problems when just driving down the road. I don't try this very often, but would nice to do every once in awhile.

I also have a 69 and had the same situation going forward. I changed the lower control arms and the problem went away. Probably your pinion angle is off. There are many kinds of aftermarket lower and upper control arms that will help. Also the bushings in the originals might need replacing and you can weld a plate onto the bottom of your lowers. An air bag in the passenger rear spring and some better shocks.
Get this fixed before you damage your axle shafts and or crack the paint on the 1/4 above the tire.

Had the same problem Jason...

I'm running a 66 Beaumont with a 468 with 600 + HP also with a 4 speed. The car is an ex drag car it had a pro stock stance. I raised both the front and rear to give it that of the ground stance. I also welded flat bar to the controls for stiffness

I had wheel hop so bad it was like basket balls in the wheel wells and broke the passenger side body bracket on the upper control arm. Got that all repaired and ended up using Edelbrock trailing arms, anti-hop bars and adjustable uppers all with uerathene greasable bushings. Got the driveshaft balanced and set the pinion @ -2 and man you'd think it was different car.

This might seem like over kill... but it got rid of my wheel hop and is alot cheaper than a 4 link and you still have some adjustablity in your set up.

Big Earl

Your car sits too high... You have 2 options; lower it until the rear suspension geometry works well, or relocate the control arm mounts on the axle. If the car is considerably higher than stock, use the Edelbrock upper relocation brackets. If the car is close to stock height, use the UMI lower relocation brackets.

What is an upper relocation bracket?

getting the lower control arms as close to parallel to the ground an using NEW bushing in all the control arms will help as will Edlebrocks anti hop relocation kit for the upper arms
I use airbags inside the springs 4lbs on the pass side & 2lbs on the dirvers .... also I've found that the rear swaybar an boxed lower arms help sounds like a lot of work ..... but its controlled my hop problem & that is what I was trying to do :beers:

What also works is adjustable rear spring mounts. The product is called Budzter, web site is budzter.com. Works the same way as air bags as far as adjusting and tuning your suspension. Just some more options for you to look at.:beers:

Jason, sounds like you have a daily driver, not doing any racing. With a rear sway bar, you're getting traction .Line locks work, but not needed. To avoid wheel hop you need to shock the tires,in 2nd. gear ,have the revs at least 4000-4,500 rpm, dump the clutch, don't slip it. Next time you're at a drag race ,watch and listen. Some of the faster cars will start a burnout at 6-8,000.I don't reccomend that on the street.I'm not responsible for any parts brakage!

So long as the rear suspension is in good shape, car isnt all the jacked-up, I recommend the no-hop bars, work everytime their tried.

66 chevelle,Bad Wheel hop,believe it or not ,New tires and WH was GONE.

not a 69 but on my 71 i replaced uper and lower control arms with hotchkis boxed ones and have never had a wheel hop issue, close to 500 hp sb with auto and a 12 bolt with 3:73`s
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/Tonystoys123/mean%20green/Picture131.jpg

My 71 had severe wheel hop. I discovered that the bolts holes in the control arms had become elongated from years of neglect. I changed the control arms out to a boxed steel set & it has never done it since. I even use air shocks on the back.

hey guys, what tips can you give me as to the adjustment of the upper control arms? i recently purchased a set for a new 373 12 bolt and never had adjustables before. is there a baseline adjustment you start with? stock height 68 chevelle with 373 gears hotchkiss swaybars, coils and kyb's and 375 hp. thanks.

hey guys, what tips can you give me as to the adjustment of the upper control arms? i recently purchased a set for a new 373 12 bolt and never had adjustables before. is there a baseline adjustment you start with? stock height 68 chevelle with 373 gears hotchkiss swaybars, coils and kyb's and 375 hp. thanks.

Tim I would start with them adjusted to what your originals were length wise......:D
With your car at or near original ride height and if you haven't made drive line changes effecting pinion angle you should be fine or close enough for a baseline.....Good Luck.....:beers:

When the guy at the tranny shop did all my stuff (lower control arms with adjustable uppers and anti-hop bars), he adjusted the upper so that I got a -2 angle at the pinion with the car suspension loaded.