I haven't any luck finding posts of someone pulling the front section off the old floor pan and dropping it on a new one. I had to go with the full floor pan with braces and the rockers already installed, due to major cancer. I also got the full trunk pan. Basically, I have to lift off my "A" pillar and place it on my new floor pan. I was just wondering if I was going in the right direction, by replacing the the lower cowling, firewall and windshield upper brace frame prior to lifting it off the old floor pan? I plan on bracing from "A" pillar to "A" pillar in 3 places (lower, mid, upper) prior to pulling it up off the old pan.
Just wondering, if anyone out there has actually lifted off the front section (A pillar, lower cowling, firewall) from the old floor pan on to a new complete floor?? I plan on building a body jig, similar to Rubadub's, to hold the old shell, while the frame is out for dipping. Once the frame is back, plan to lay the new floors in place on the frame and build up the shell. Just trying to work out all the logistics and get some sort of a game plan prior to next summer. I've seen some pretty extensive resto's here in Team Chevelle. I just haven't seen the whole front section come off the old floor and go on a new one.
Has anyone had the pleasure to accomplice this??? Looking forward to hearing from you and any horror stories that might go with it. Trust me, I'm sure I'll have a few to share once I get going. LOL I'm just itching to get started though!!!!! But, I'll have plenty of time to do a lot of research and seek advice before attempting it. I'm one of those guys that held on to my ride for 25 yrs under a tarp. But, now that I have all the virgin sheetmetal to be replaced (everything, but the "A" pillar & quarter skeleton), I'm pleased say I'm well on my way out of that catagory. :D Looking forward to hearing from someone who's been there and done it.:thumbsup:

Lloyd


This is the state she is in right now.
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles http://www.chevelles.com/forums/thumbs/3/45c125cec40caaa00c38d063df69d2f5_3664.jpg?dl=12768 47020 (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/album.php?albumid=221&pictureid=3664)

Here is what ive done before.65 elcamino.Replaced the left and right floor sections and cross braces.Its pritty easy.Did it all in one weekend first time.All I did was place the sections in and mark aroud them to have an idea where to cut.Final fitting involved more trimming.Its a learn as you go thing.Not rocket science.After about a year of driving it I came across a 65 2dr coupe parts car with a mint condition cowl/dash and door jams.Rest of the car was junk.Take your time and seporate the rocker from the cowl.The rockers on the doner can be destroyed as you dont need them.Do the same only take care not to destroy the rocker on your car.I shouldnt have to say this but take measurements and mark and record where you took them.Yours will be easy.As you dont have to work on the roof erea.I did mine with the new floors installed just because thats how it worked out.I would have done it prior to installing the floors if I had planed on replacing the cowl which I didnt.When I was done nobody could tell.Last detail was swapping the vin and cowl tag from my old part.The worst part is working up the nerv to start cutting your car up.If I had to do it again would not hesatate because it went so smooth.

Thanks for the confidence builder, Gary. My new floor pan came with rockers and braces, so that makes it a whole lot easier. I just didn't know if I should replace the cowl and firewall while sitting on the old floor, then removing it as one front section, over to the new floor. I've got til next summer to decide, just trying to get all my ducks in a row. The lower windshield brace that holds the vin tag looks to be in pretty good shape. But talking about the cowl tag, were those rivets hard to come by? The HTP spot welder (quick spot II) and Millermatic 211 just got delivered last month, so things are definately starting to shape up. Oh, and by the way, yes, I'll be taking plenty of measurements and pics. More than I think I'll need, which probably won't be enough. Thanks again for the advice Gary!!

Lloyd
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles

Ive never seen the floor pan you have first hand.When you say it comes with the rockers Im thinking the inner rockers?If thats the case I would remove the entire floor pan area that is being replaced leaving the inner rockers alone for the cowl replacement to help keep the body rigid.Before you start doing all this you have remove the body from the frame and make a jig to sit the body on and levle it.Angle iron works good.I used 2x4s(wood)to make mine.Its cheep and easy to cut.You also have to take into acount that when the cowl is removed the jig wont be suporting this front area anymore so the rear of the car will have to secured to the floor to keep it from tilting forward off the jig or incase the jig has any flex in it.You also have to make sure your jig suports the front in an area that wont interfeer with the removal and instalation process.After the cowl is welded in place You can finish the floor.When you do get around to doing it make a photo album.
{edit}Ive seen those cowl tag rivets online.Dont know anybody whose used them.When I did mine I cut out the section off my old cowl holding the tag.From behind I was able to scueez the rivets with plyers so they would pop out without damaging the tag.I then used them to install it to the new one.From the engin compartment I used snapring plyers in the center of the rivet to reexpand it.Also used a little dab of glue on the back of the tag.

I believe the floor pan I got has both the inner and outer rockers installed. I got it from groundup. Heres the link. http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=RFP-1462Y&Category_Code=FLOORPAN
So what your saying, is you would do all the work once it's sitting on the jig??
I'm planning on making a jig similar to rubadub's. I hear what your saying about no support up front when the cowl gets replaced. I'm thinking of adding some braces on the jig that will bolt into the door hinge nuts. That actually would keep my jams and "A" pillar fairly ridgid while replacing the cowl. It also would probably serve well, while replacing the old floor.
I plan on starting a 70SS build thread when I get started. I'll have plenty of time for pics, lots of pics. LOL
I liked your idea with the cowl tag, by saving the old rivets. I'll give that a shot first.

Thanks for great advice, Gary, got me brain storming on the jig.

Lloyd
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles

A good jig is like a lot of helping hands.
Check out this link.You may have seen it.Pritty extreem.
http://www.mikescustomcars.com/projects/projects.asp?proj=SWalker&album=1

I have replaced all the parts you will and then some. Here is what I did, and it worked great.
First off, I would recommend doing all body work on the original frame before sending it out for strip and refinish. You can't imagine how much dirt and rust will be generated from this process and by working on the original frame, everything should line up when your done, not to mention, you can save the effort and cost of building a jig.
Rebuild your original hinges, install the doors you plan to keep and line them up and leave in place for future reference. Build a support cage on the inside of the passenger compartment (don't cut corners here). I used 1/4 plate and welded one to each the inside rear quarter structure up high. I also welded one to each side of the inner door hinge pillar. I used 2X2 thick wall square tube to connect the two plates on each side. I added a piece of flat plate to create a "X" brace in the door opening. Then I welded a pretty heavy piece of angle from the top of each inner quarter to the other, connecting the 2X2 tube, and "X" braced it. Convert body shells have almost a perfect balance at this point, so it is easily moved with a single cherry picker on and off the frame as needed. This is why its important to not skimp on the cage. If built correctly, you will have plenty of room to work around it, and keep things from moving. I would also suggest replacing the trunk first, but its not required.
I will try and pop back in when I have more time. Good luck.

I believe the floor pan I got has both the inner and outer rockers installed. I got it from groundup. Heres the link. http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=RFP-1462Y&Category_Code=FLOORPAN
So what your saying, is you would do all the work once it's sitting on the jig??
I'm planning on making a jig similar to rubadub's. I hear what your saying about no support up front when the cowl gets replaced. I'm thinking of adding some braces on the jig that will bolt into the door hinge nuts. That actually would keep my jams and "A" pillar fairly ridgid while replacing the cowl. It also would probably serve well, while replacing the old floor.
I plan on starting a 70SS build thread when I get started. I'll have plenty of time for pics, lots of pics. LOL
I liked your idea with the cowl tag, by saving the old rivets. I'll give that a shot first.

Thanks for great advice, Gary, got me brain storming on the jig.

Lloyd
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles
Just checked out your link.That floor is nice.Will save a lot of time.Might just be a matter of drilling out the fac spot welds and sliding it together.I love doing stuff like that.

Thanks for all the experienced suggestions. I'm definately building a jig. This way I can have the old shell sitting on it. One way or another the body has to come off the frame, so I can get it on to the new complete floor (from the firewall seam to the trank latch). I have to join the full floor pan and full trunk and figured I'd have them bolted to the frame prior to tack welding them together. I 'm then thinking of cutting loose the front section (fwd door jam, A pillar, new cowl & new firewall) and setting it on the new floor. I guess if I have the shell pretty well braced between the front section and quarter skeleton, I could lift the whole assy up and place it down on the new floor. Speaking of which, does the door jam sit on top of the foor or does it slide around the tangs in front of the rockers. I guess I'll find out after replacing the the firewall and cowl. Just curious right now.
I checked out the jig at mikescustomcars, thanks Gary. I'll be going back there once I get started. It's similar to Rubadub's jig. Gives me some great ideas!
And thanks AJW, I'll be going with 2x2 for the shell inner bracing as well. Trust me, I'm wanting to get this done the right way with a whole lot of user freindly tecniques. I've got too much invested right now in parts and equipment to be cutting any corners. Just getting a little antsie to get started. Have to keep telling myself, slow and steady. LOL
Measuerments, solid inner bracing, sturdy jig and more measurements will be my next phase.

Thanks again for all your inputs. :beers: :thumbsup:

Lloyd
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles

The front of the rockers will need to be slid into the bottom of the door hinge pillar, unless you cut the bottom off and re-weld it on later. If your going to weld the trunk and floor together first, it will be tough to slide in. Good luck, with whatever way you go.
Andy

Got ya, AJW. That helps out a lot. I'll be sliding the door hinge pillar into the front of the rockers then, prior to attaching the trunk floor. I see what you mean by holding off on the trunk floor. Either way I go though, I'll have to build a fairly sturdy inside brace for what remains of the shell, basically the front pillar section braced to the quater skeleton's. Those should be some great pics, nothing but wide open space. LOL I'm then assuming the door hinge pillar slides hard up to the rockers, and where ever the quarter skeleton lays to rest, is basically where it's going to sit. At that point, I thought I would hang the door to verify the lower gap (door to rocker) and the aft gap (door to quarter). Does that sound about right?? I'd pretty much be sitting on easy street by then, if everything lined up at that point. That'll be my biggest callenge.

Thanks again for the advice.

Lloyd
70SS Red on Red Vert 65,000 original miles