:thumbsup:

Finally had the car aligned today...

Camber, Left -0.6 degrees and right -0.5 degrees... The guy said he put about -0.75 degree (per my instructions), and I saw the showing 0.7 degrees, but the -0.5/-0.6 is whats on the printout he gave me...

Caster, Left 5.0 degrees, and Right 5.5 degrees ( I think the tech said more on the right to comensate for road crown)...

Toe-in, 0.17 L and 015 R... Al have my new AGR steering box in, no leaks, and awesome as usual... no play, no slop, works great, and nice & firm...
Even with th 275s up front, its not as hard to turn when sitting still as I remember my '66 being...
In all, I have the SC&C/SPC uppers, stage 2 tall upper/lower BJs, CPP lowers ( bought these several years ago, before SC&C had lowers), Edelbrock tie-rod sleeves, the new AGR box and hew PS hoses... I also swapped in my tilt column...

I eyeballed the toe-in for the ride to the shop... When I backed out of my driveway, I noticed two faint black marks, and driving down my street, there was a little squealing... I guess my 'eyeballing" wasn't too good. The starting toe-in was 0.98 L and 0.90 R... Thank goodness It wasn't too far to drive...

I did get a little upset. I brought the arms in a few weeks ago, and the shop said NO problems, standard alignment charge... Today, I again asked, and they said it was fine, and then it took about 45 minutes to do the alignment... Iasked the tech if the arms were easier or harder than the shims. He said about the same on an old car, because there's room to get to the shims... THEN, the counterman said the charge was $90! WTF, I was quaoted a standard alignment, $58... he said it was because of the "custom" parts and because it took about 2 hours... I pointed to the clock which read 1:55 PM, and then pointed at the appointment book with my 1PM appointment, and that it was probably 1:10 by the time my car was in the bay... They apologized and charged me the $58... Irnic, because the counter guy said the tech told him it was $90 ( even after the tec told me it wasn't any more trouble)...

At least the tech was nice enough to point out a valve cover leak coming down the back (I thought the oil pan.filter was the culprit)...

At least its done... drives nice, and with the increased camber, I haven't heard the tires rub... :thumbsup:

You're going to love the results. One trip around a freeway cloverleaf and you'll be impressed! Keep accelerating until you hear the tires scream...it'll take a lot more speed than you'd expect.

Oh- you'll probably want to upgrade the rear next...I know I did.

[quote]I did get a little upset. I brought the arms in a few weeks ago, and the shop said NO problems, standard alignment charge... Today, I again asked, and they said it was fine, and then it took about 45 minutes to do the alignment... Iasked the tech if the arms were easier or harder than the shims. He said about the same on an old car, because there's room to get to the shims... THEN, the counterman said the charge was $90! WTF, I was quaoted a standard alignment, $58... he said it was because of the "custom" parts and because it took about 2 hours... I pointed to the clock which read 1:55 PM, and then pointed at the appointment book with my 1PM appointment, and that it was probably 1:10 by the time my car was in the bay... They apologized and charged me the $58... Irnic, because the counter guy said the tech told him it was $90 ( even after the tec told me it wasn't any more trouble)...[./quote]

hate that!

you should love the new parts!

You're going to love the results. One trip around a freeway cloverleaf and you'll be impressed! Keep accelerating until you hear the tires scream...it'll take a lot more speed than you'd expect.

Oh- you'll probably want to upgrade the rear next...I know I did.

I have to figure what I want/need on the rear...

Currently, the rear has Eibach springs, KYB shocks and Alston upper and lower control arms... I'd like to lower the rear about 1.5+ inches, so I am looking at getting some of those adjustible spring plates and the shorter circle-track springs...

The front sway bar is also smaller. I think its stock (with poly bushings), I didn't measure it, but about 1" diameter ( maybe 7/8"?)... No bar on the rear...

Taking the 'velle to get aligned properly after I recently added the SPC lowers and SPC springs then replaced all of the steering linkages with Napa premium pieces. I asked the alignment tech to make sure the tie rods are even and the pitman was pointed straight back so when he's done, I can finally get my steering wheel and rag joint fastened straight. :(

Thanks for typing your specs, they are very close to what's recommended by Marcus, or, the inserts he ships with the Stage 2+ parts.

I had an issue running too much caster 8-9° and keeping the OE style tie rod adjuster sleeves. Long story short, steering linkages weren't replaced due to wear... ;) (think bent)
I also went with the edelbrock adjusting sleeves with jam nuts. They felt solid enough and the price was right.

A note on the rear springs... I was running the circle track single pigtail springs on the rear before I swapped to the progressive SPC rear springs... The stance was spot on running just the 11" rear spring and no adjuster. The SPC spring on at the moment sit too high IMO and I am considering going back to a shorter rear spring.


The front sway bar is also smaller. I think its stock (with poly bushings), I didn't measure it, but about 1" diameter ( maybe 7/8"?)... No bar on the rear...

I'm pretty certain the OE standard front sway is 15/16" dia.

Taking the 'velle to get aligned properly after I recently added the SPC lowers and SPC springs then replaced all of the steering linkages with Napa premium pieces. I asked the alignment tech to make sure the tie rods are even and the pitman was pointed straight back so when he's done, I can finally get my steering wheel and rag joint fastened straight. :(

Thanks for typing your specs, they are very close to what's recommended by Marcus, or, the inserts he ships with the Stage 2+ parts.
Thats where I ended up taking the specs from, Marcus's sheet... "Performance Street", I added a little more Camber, for tire clearance to the fender lip...


I also went with the edelbrock adjusting sleeves with jam nuts. They felt solid enough and the price was right.
All my stuff ( SPC uppers, CCP lowers, Edelbrock tie-rod sleeves) were just siting around. I bought them over 3 years ago, to use on my '66 project, but they ended up just sitting around on the shelf... The '70 had newer ball joints and linkage, but the lower BJ's were loose in the control arms. I took that as a sign to just replace it all... The steering box was the old stocker, with a loose, floating feeling over center...

A note on the rear springs... I was running the circle track single pigtail springs on the rear before I swapped to the progressive SPC rear springs... The stance was spot on running just the 11" rear spring and no adjuster. The SPC spring on at the moment sit too high IMO and I am considering going back to a shorter rear spring.

I'm pretty certain the OE standard front sway is 15/16" dia.

Any pictures or measurements with those SPC springs?

I have almost exactly 24" to the fender lip on the fronts, but about 25.5-25.75 on the rear... I'd like those to be near level with the fronts...

I'll get you a measurement in about 40min. Waiting at the pharmacy for filled prescriptions!

I'll get you a measurement in about 40min. Waiting at the pharmacy for filled prescriptions!

Sorry, got sidetracked after the pharmacy...

Rear lip sits at 24-1/4", front is at 24". This is with 275/40-17 fronts and 315/35-17 rears, So both tires are 25.7" tall. I have a little chevelle lean to the driver's side so the numbers are close, give or take a 1/8 or 1/4".

There's alot done to get the front to where it is now, but the rear is just SPC springs, no upper spring isolator either.

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll18/rogers98_photos/DSCF2552.jpg