ssbums
Apr 30th, 10, 7:50 PM
Bought a rebuilt Q-jet off of ebay. It was a rebuilt unit from a parts store, shrink wrapped and everything. Anyway, the car runs super rich with it on there. It's on a 327 with headers, fuelie heads, performer cam and intake combo, HEI ignition with Accel SuperCoil.
I had to fight some choke issues and that all seems good right now. But when a let the car hold about 2000 RPM (in neutral...no load) the smoke starts rolling and it reeks of gas. Ideas on the culprit?
I don't know anything about this carb. Haven't cracked it open yet. Bought a kit to put in it but thought someone might have a tip for me on what I might look out for while I am in there...or perhaps something I should be checking before putting the kit in it.
thx
novaderrik
May 1st, 10, 12:56 AM
tap the top of the carb with the handle of a screwdriver. if the float is stuck down with the needle valve open, then it will run rich. the light tapping might free it.
how's it run otherwise?
JWagner
May 1st, 10, 11:50 AM
If it is driving ok at higher rpm, and is over-rich at idle it may be high fuel pressure. The recommended range is 6-8psi. Some aftermarket fuel pumps will put out much more. Stick with a name brand pump like Carter or Borg Warner. I have tried several aftermarket types from Autozone and Checker with pressures too high.
Verle
May 1st, 10, 10:37 PM
Lately I have found rebuilt carburetors (and some new ones) to have metal shavings that get under the needle and cause flooding.
Schurkey
May 1st, 10, 10:55 PM
Bought a rebuilt Q-jet off of ebay. It was a rebuilt unit from a parts store, shrink wrapped and everything.
Good luck. Production-line rebuilt carbs were NEVER very good, and seem to be getting worse.
The rebuilders disassemble a bunch of carbs, throw all the parts into a big bin, and then mix 'n' match them as they're re-assembled.
Then they screw up the fuel curve by playing games with the air bleeds and jet sizes.
In the end, you get a "carburetor" made up of mis-matched castings; made worse by incorrectly-sized fuel and air passages.
First Guess: You'd be best off by putting that carb back on eBay, and starting fresh with a virgin core carb.
If you REALLY want to fix the carb you have, you better buy Cliff Ruggle's Q-Jet book so you can learn to size the fuel passages to suit the engine.
Amazon.com: How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors (S-a Design) (9781932494181): Cliff Ruggles: Books
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61TBEng3NyL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA300_SH20_OU01_.jpg
ssbums
May 2nd, 10, 7:02 PM
Thanks guys for all the inputs. I'm not exactly sure what was wrong but after I put a kit in it, it seems to run much better. Go figure. Didn't see anything goofy while I was in there. No trash, needle and seat looked good. Float level was OK.
Did find out that it has #45 metering rods and 74 jets so it wasn't too far off from factory 74/45 setup (it came off a 350). Still seems to be running a tiny bit on the rich side but nothing like it was before. It doesn't knock your head off from the gas smell! I won't know if I'm completely done until I take it down the road.
I may have some questions later once I get into the fine tuning.
Thanks again!