Hello, All... Really need some help with this ( Rookie with Body Work...)
I tore out my interior to add some POR15 and this is what I found....Attached are a few pictures of my rusted floor pan, I bought a new section from ground up and plan to bond the new piece with automix ( since I do not weld) and Top coat it with POR-15.
One question that I have is , how much old metal should I leave for the new new piece to bond to ??? example in pic 4 I am thinking 4 to 5 inches away from the seam...

Also In pic 1 you can see that its rusted through in the front corner, should I bend the edge of the new piece upwards and try to bond to side panel or maybe add a sheet metal support and rivet to side wall??
Also noticed that the piece isn't an exact fit ,including the edge,(not sure why its angled downwards) Should I just press it down and mold it flat???
Also thinking of riveting the piece down during Bonding for a better hold
Any how these are my initial questions, any help/recommendations are greatly appreciated...


IMG_5252.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29772&stc=1&d=1271205495)


IMG_5253.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29773&stc=1&d=1271205495)



IMG_5254.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29774&stc=1&d=1271205495)




IMG_5255.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29775&stc=1&d=1271205495)




IMG_5260.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29776&stc=1&d=1271205495)



IMG_5262.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29777&stc=1&d=1271205495)

Thanks





(http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29762&stc=1&d=1271199222)

Not to sound mean, but are you sh$%#&* me about bonding in a floor pan. Tha'ts got to be the most dangerous thing I can imagine. You need to take that car to someone to have it put in correctly.
I can see myself now driving down the road in a old muscle car that I just bought restored and falling through the floor board while crossing the railroad tracks.

I apologize for my harshness, and I sometimes let loose a bit, but this is not the right way to fix this. Get it welded in and maybe save your own life.

RandyB.
Paint and resto work for 20+ and going.
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/004.jpg
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/002.jpg

That floor NEEDS to be welded in, not riveted and bonded...that's just not going to work and it will not be as strong as a weld. You should have just bought the 1 piece floor and replaced the whole thing. It's a lot less work than doing a 1/3 floor patch.

Not to sound mean, but are you sh$%#&* me about bonding in a floor pan. Tha'ts got to be the most dangerous thing I can imagine. You need to take that car to someone to have it put in correctly.
I can see myself now driving down the road in a old muscle car that I just bought restored and falling through the floor board while crossing the railroad tracks.

I apologize for my harshness, and I sometimes let loose a bit, but this is not the right way to fix this. Get it welded in and maybe save your own life.

RandyB.
Paint and resto work for 20+ and going.
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/004.jpg
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu28/red2rider/002.jpg
NO I'M NOT SH$%^ING YOU SMART ASS I ASKED A QUESTION......

So much misinformation.....who's right who's wrong?????

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2278267&postcount=3

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2278889&postcount=5

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2197842&postcount=1

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2025404&postcount=1

NO I'M NOT SH$%^ING YOU SMART ASS I ASKED A QUESTION......

So much misinformation.....who's right who's wrong?????

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2278267&postcount=3

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2278889&postcount=5

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2197842&postcount=1

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2025404&postcount=1

Well, since you seem to know everything... go put your clapped out bucket back together.

Well, since you seem to know everything... go put your clapped out bucket back together.

Far from it, I joined this forum to become educated. I simply asked for advice, not for condescending attitudes. Some threads on this very forum led me to believe that bonding a section of floorpan on full frame vehicles was acceptable, and the 3M Automix specs indicate the same, not having experience in this type of repair, I figured I'd ask some questions. That's all nothing more nothing less.....

When you bond it in, installing it from the top, with a good inch or so overlap around the edges, there is no way that patch will ever "fall through". That stuff is very, very strong. No matter what method you use, learn all you can, get help if necessary, and take your time and do it right. I have seen a lot of shady work on floor pans, sheetmetal screws, fiberglass, and lousy welds that don't hold anything.

When you bond it in, installing it from the top, with a good inch or so overlap around the edges, there is no way that patch will ever "fall through". That stuff is very, very strong. No matter what method you use, learn all you can, get help if necessary, and take your time and do it right. I have seen a lot of shady work on floor pans, sheetmetal screws, fiberglass, and lousy welds that don't hold anything.

Thanks, I know what you mean about shady work.. I bought this car last year and found some mechanical issues, overall I'm happy with it, although I should have been way more thorough with the underside and floors.. I won't complain, body is clean, fresh 454 and Turbo 400, and best of all its a Chevelle...

you should either learn to weld or have someone do it cause mine looked just like that and the kick panel brace was also rusted out you will see it when you cut the floor out or pull a fender and the piece is not reproduced so has to be fabbed

Man you guys are harsh. Seemed like a legit question from someone whos new to this stuff. Did you overlook the part that said "rookie"?

Heres how a floor pan fits into a rocker panel if it will help you get a better idea.http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpn8.html

Rob

I would also like to add this.

The guy ask a legimate question, plus he took the time to provide pictures, you guys need to have a little more respect for people on this forum.

Rob

.

Seemed a little harsh to me too. A lot of us come to this board without much knowledge and thanks to the patience and expertise of posters can do some pretty cool things with their cars.

Didn't seem that outragious of a question to me either. I've never use panel adhesive, but I remember a lot of guys swearing that they they used it and those panels are bonded together stong as a weld. Anyone know if automakers are using adhesives in structual areas like a floor pan or is it just doorskins and such?

That being said, I'd be most comfortable with cutting out all that rust and getting new metal in there. Even if an adhesive is considered strong enough I'd worry that the metal you are bonding the new pans to would continue to decay. Although the bond may be strong enough, the original metal may not be.

Thank You all for the response!!!!!
This really is a Great forum with so muchGreat people willing to share their knowledge with us beginners...dont know if id even attempt this repair if it weren't for this forum.......
I will undoubtedly gather as much info as I can before making a decision about bonding, would be great to hear from people with Personal experiences....

Best Regards..

Do a search and you might find what you need. If you want to search other boards as well, I find the message board on hotrodders.com and the board on autobodystore.com to also be good. This board has been the best for me. People are generally the friendliest, most patient with beginner, and the information is Chevelle specific.

There are a ton of great thread on this site alone detailing floor pan replacement. Many with pictures. About a year ago HotRod Magazine was sending out free DVD's about restoring cars (first one was free to get you hooked - like crack). the one I got showed how to replace floor pans and I thought it was pretty good information for the beginner.

It's a good question you asked. I'm not sure I've every heard anyone ask it. Unlike some of the other posters, I'm not sure that it would be unsafe. If the bond is as strong as others have said and if you got enough overlap with good strong original metal, why wouldn't it work? If you've got access to a welder, that's still the way to go IMO.

Looking at your first picture, there's rust hole near the door opening that would have me concerned. Looks like there's nothing that would overlap with your new pan so nothing to bond it to, without splicing in a new piece of metal.

Willing to bet your inner rocker is rusted and needs replacing or patching.

I would NOT even consider bonding a floor pan in place.

I have NEVER seen anyone bond a floor in place in the collision repair industry.

Never seen any of the big three's repair manuals stating one can use glue to attach new replacement floors when dealing with new cars.

Far from it, I joined this forum to become educated. I simply asked for advice, not for condescending attitudes. Some threads on this very forum led me to believe that bonding a section of floorpan on full frame vehicles was acceptable, and the 3M Automix specs indicate the same, not having experience in this type of repair, I figured I'd ask some questions. That's all nothing more nothing less.....


I was giving you advice, but from your post you pretty much decided you were going to bond the panel in.
NO I'M NOT SH$%^ING YOU SMART ASS I ASKED A QUESTION......

So much misinformation.....who's right who's wrong?????

Geez Louise!!!!

though no one asked i'm with 31 Chevy .. he did say "not to sound mean" .. whatever OP decides i hope it works out ..:beers:

Some of us need to take a deep breath and lighten up a little. We can give advice and also be civil. I agree the proper way to fix the floor is to weld in the patch, but the OP asked specifically about adhesive procedures. BTW, Randy B, what did photos of your ride (which looks really nice) have to do with the OP's question? Seems you delivered a double whammy, condescend and hijack. Let's try to be constructive.

Well said pnugene.......thanks everyone for the feedback, BTW I have a guy coming out to take a look at the floor, what do you guys think is a fair price to have the 2 panels welded in??

What does your guy do for a living. Is he a welder, a body man. If you can cut the panels to fit and do all the prep, you can get out of this real cheap. You got any buddys that weld. One of us that lives close would do it for just about free. I would anyway.

pnugene: I posted the pics so the guy would know I wasn't shooting from the hip with my response.

RandyB.

Omar, i would be concerned about that one particular gap on first picture, the one that runs front to rear at the door sill....a lot of stess at that point, a possibilty of flexing..have used some of this bond...it works for some applications, but doesn't seem to handle flexing well. I would suggest you prep your rusted areas well, cut out badmetal, go to a local sheet metal shop, get patch panel from scrap, then find somene with a 110 volt mig to weld them in. Just my .02 worth. Along this same line.


No one on this forum was born with any knowledge on how to build a big block, install a cam, add disc brakes, or repair bad floor pans. Every one of us came into this world dumb as a sack of rocks. We all learned from someone who took the time to help us, didn't blow us off as stupid, but genuinely wanted to impart their knowledge and experience to us..If it weren't for each of them, this forum today wouldn't exist. Think about it the next you need help from some one here.........no such thing as a stupid question...we are all here to further Chevelles, right?

Good luck Omar...........................:thumbsup:

10-4 Rick, Thanks for the advice....... Based on the recommendations on this thread I will get the floor welded.

Randy, I work with Pipefitters here in Chicago, they weld very well but usually big iron pipe. The guy helping me out is one of the most experience welders we have. Im hoping that the thin metal wont be an problem for him....In the meantime I will cut out the old floor section and leave 2" of good metal (where I can)and grind it clean, I'll also get some sheet metal to patch the door area....

Make sure it's mig welded. Pipefitter should have no problem welding that in.

RandyB.