I want to put wheels on my 70 that will be a little different and was considering the 17" rally wheels. Has anyone seen them in person? Any opinions?

Check this out. www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum8/HTML/001390.html (http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum8/HTML/001390.html)
For what its worth, I think 17" wheels look great, and maybe steel rallys would be tougher than alum, but I've heard of problems bending 17 inchers on pot holes, and overly harsh ride.


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ACES member:#3722
68 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68vette.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle2.jpg)
1st Car (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thads68bu.jpg) 1984-86, original 6cyl, then 74-350, then 327, then 454 :)

I haven't seen any 17" rallys. You probaly could get them.
I have had billet 17's on my Chevelle.
As for the rims getting bent, concider using a tall profile tire. The looks of a taller tire suit Chevelles better then the rubber band look and it also gives more cushion. My wheels were used and one has been slightly bent on the outter lip. (out of round) I now use 255/45/ instead of 255/40 for the front.

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SS396 (http://chevelles.com/feature/feb2000.html)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Thad:
Check this out.
...but I've heard of problems bending 17 inchers on pot holes, and overly harsh ride.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think a lot depends on tire selection and not so much wheel size. I put 17" ARE 200S wheels on my 67 but stuck with a 50 series tire. I agree that 35-40-45 series look great on some cars but offer very little protection against pot holes and curbs.



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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
Dale's Place (http://www.dalesplace.com)
Team 67 (http://www.team67.com)
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council (http://www.midwestchevelles.com)
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dale McIntosh:
I think a lot depends on tire selection and not so much wheel size. I put 17" ARE 200S wheels on my 67 but stuck with a 50 series tire. I agree that 35-40-45 series look great on some cars but offer very little protection against pot holes and curbs.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good points Dale & Jerry.
Jerry & Dale have the benefit of experience here, and if you've seen a picture of their cars with the 17" wheels, they look SOOOO GOOD. I wanted them too. I was just too dang cheap, to step up, as not so much the cost of wheels, (I was thinking chrome rallys too) but the price of tires, is significant.

P.S. Check out their links, two of the best looking Chevelles you'll ever see.
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ACES member:#3722
68 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68vette.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle2.jpg)
1st Car (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thads68bu.jpg) 1984-86, original 6cyl, then 74-350, then 327, then 454 http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

[This message has been edited by Thad (edited 04-06-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Thad (edited 04-06-2002).]

I thought Wheel Vintiques might make 17" rallys. Can't say for sure, thought I saw them on a Camaro in Hot Rod awhile back.

Later
Steve

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66 327 Malibu
80 Malibu Wagon(summer 2002)

The steel 16" and 17" rallys from Wheel Vintiques don't look quite right IMO... they didn't scale up the cooling slots to go along with the increase in diameter so the slots look out of proportion with the rest of the wheel. They did the job right on their billet rally's though and scaled up the slots so it looks proportional. I have a friend with Billet 17" rally's on a '69 camaro convertible and they look awesome. He got them with silver powder coat centers.

This is crazy.
I just thought up the same exact idea this morning. I havent checked this forum real close lately either. I wonder if wheel vintiques has fixed the design now? How much are they goin for a piece? when i was lookin on their website earlier today I couldnt find a price. The other thing is, would my centers off my 15" wheel vintiques fit the 17" wheels? I think a call to wheel vintiques is in order now...


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Russ (or Steve)
1965 Malibu 283/PG/A/C (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/SteveD64SSside.jpg)
Now 350/TH350 with some goodies
My Homepage (Updated 5/31/2001) (http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/chevelle/)
Team Chevelle Member #71

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Thad:
I was just too dang cheap, to step up, as not so much the cost of wheels, (I was thinking chrome rallys too) but the price of tires, is significant.

P.S. Check out their links, two of the best looking Chevelles you'll ever see.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thad: The tires weren't out of line, really. I bought the Nitto NT-450's and the wheels from http://www.wheelsforless.com . Tires were $113 @ for the front (225x50VR17) and $125 @ for the rears (255x50VR17.



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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
Dale's Place (http://www.dalesplace.com)
Team 67 (http://www.team67.com)
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council (http://www.midwestchevelles.com)
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

I believe Wheel Vintique's steel 16/17" rallys use standard center caps, but if I remember correctly their Billet Rally's need special center caps. I remember looking at the caps on my friend's Camaro-- the retention tabs for the billet rally's are different.

I recently went the 17" route and picked up 17x8" Torq-Thrust II Classics (grey crinklecoat centers instead of full polished) because I needed the 17's to clear my new Baer brakes. I still haven't driven the car (waiting for my Gen2 upper a-arms from Global West) so I can't comment on ride quality. I must say though that the 17's look sweet. There's still enough sidewall so the wheels don't have the "rubber band" look I despise. Older cars like our Chevelles just don't look right unless they have enough sidewall. For what it's worth, I'm running 255/45/YR17 Pilot Sports at all 4 corners. I was running 235/60/15's on my Rallys and the 255/45/17's have the same diameter as my 235/60/15's. The rubber band look is nice on many newer performance cars, but it looks totally out of place on a muscle car.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-07-2002).]

Thanks for all the replies guys! It seems like the 17"s might be the way to go. I figured I'd get a few "Keep the factory 14"s on it!" replies, but I was wrong. I like the looks of a bigger wheel but don't want to loose the muscle car look either, so I think this is the way to go, plus they're only $139 in the OPG catalog. I have 18"s on my Mus... Ummm... daily driver and it rides really nice even with 35 series pilots. Thanks, Jim

Gokou, where did you get the origional style TT in a 17? Just when I thought I'd made up my mind!

The Torq-Thrust II "classics" are TT2's with grey crinkle powdercoat centers. They're available in any size/backspacing as the Torq Thrust II. They're made to order-- any American Racing dealer can order them for you. It took me 3 weeks to get mine-- they say 3-5 weeks. 8-12 weeks if you get custom backspacing. I really, really like them. I wanted Torq-Thrusts, but I needed 17's to clear my new Baer brakes. I almost bought the standard full-polished Torq Thrust IIs, but I really wanted the Torq-Thrust D's with the cast centers. Good thing I stalled on ordering, because I remembered reading a little blurb in Super Chevy about the TT2 classics, so I called up American to confirm they existed then ordered them. I'm soooooooooooo glad I bought the Classics instead of the full polished TT2s. Not that the TT2's look bad (I really like them) but I didn't want full polished wheels on my car.

Here are some pics:

Closeup of the Spoke (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/chevelle/spoke_closeup.jpg)

Wheel and Tire (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/chevelle/wheel_and_tire.jpg)

With the optional Bow-Tie centercaps (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/chevelle/Centercap.jpg)

And a pic of them on the car
http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/cars/chevelle/side_with_ttc.jpg

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-08-2002).]

Here is what a real 18 inch wheel looks like. The tires are 28.4 inches tall and I really like the look. The sidewalls are over 5 inches tall and very close to the height of a stock tire. In addition, the rear has been dropped 2 inches. The drilled and slotted rotors are Baer's. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

So who thinks they don't look great? They sure as heck are not rubberbands and this car is as far from rice as any other Chevelle!

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/tempexhaust1.jpg

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Redrum (or Mike)

68 Corvette - 383 CI, 427 HP, 700R4, 12.56 @ 108 MPH
69 SS Chevelle - 502 CI, 610 HP, 2004R, 1320 unknown
97 Z-28 - totally stock still under 12,000 miles

Why does California have the most lawyers in the country
and New Jersey have the most toxic waste sites?

New Jersey got first choice.

[This message has been edited by Redrum (edited 04-08-2002).]

Thanks for the pics guys, your cars look bad a$$! The higher profile tire definatley doesn't look ricey, just plain mean! What are those Redrum, Nitto SUV tires? Gokou, did you order those straight from ARE? Thanks again fellas. Jim

The tires are:

Goodyear
Eagle F1 GS
Size:295/45-18


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Redrum (or Mike)

68 Corvette - 383 CI, 427 HP, 700R4, 12.56 @ 108 MPH
69 SS Chevelle - 502 CI, 610 HP, 2004R, 1320 unknown
97 Z-28 - totally stock still under 12,000 miles

Why does California have the most lawyers in the country
and New Jersey have the most toxic waste sites?

New Jersey got first choice.

[This message has been edited by Redrum (edited 04-09-2002).]

Yeowie! Did those 295's fit without any clearance troubles? I was going to go 8" in front and 9.5" in back on my car, but instead I went 8" all around because I would need custom backspace 9.5's to make me feel comfortable, and with 8"s all the way around at least I can rotate front to rear (directional tires.) What do you think of your Baers? I like mine... I went with Track in front and Touring in the rear, with 2-piece slotted/crossdrilled/zinc rotors. I have my rears installed, but I'm still waiting for my new upper and lower front A-arms from Global West to install my fronts. Can't wait to get my car back on the road.

And USMUSL: American wouldn't let me order direct, you have to order through an American Racing dealer.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-09-2002).]

I think overall tire size has a lot to do with the way the car looks - that is if it's overboard on tire/wheel sizes. I put my older ARE Outlaw I wheels/tires on my Elky when I got the 17" for the Chevelle.

The Chevelle fronts are 225/50VR17 (25.9" tall) compared to the 205/70R14 (25.3") tall now on the Elky.

The Chevelle rears are 255/50VR17 (27" tall) compared to the 235/60R15 (26" tall).

Chevelle w/Outlaw I's (http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle/ss5.jpg)

El Camino now with Outlaw I's (http://www.dalesplace.com/images/camino/p000845.jpg)

Chevelle after w/17" ARE 200S (http://www.dalesplace.com/images/chevelle/more_pics/p000858.jpg)

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TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67 SS & 67 Elky
Dale's Place (http://www.dalesplace.com)
Team 67 (http://www.team67.com)
Midwest Chevelle Regional Governing Council (http://www.midwestchevelles.com)
Integrity: If you have it, it doesn't matter - If you don't have it, it doesn't matter.

Good point Dale on the tire sizes. The overall OD does have a lot to do with the overall look. I almost went 255/50's in the back to fill the rear wheelwells a bit more (taller than the 255/45's I have in front) but I decided to choose functionality over looks and went with 255/45's all the way around so I could rotate, since my car has a habit of wearing out back tires faster than the fronts...

There are no clearance issues with the 295's. They are on 18 x 10 wheels with 6 inches of backspacing. As the car is lowered 2 inches the suspension play takes them well into the wheelwells and there are no issues. The chrome wheelwell trim has been trimmed back on the drivers side as the body is slightly offset to the passenger side.

I went with two inch dropped spindles on the front and stayed with the stock control arms. Koni adjustables all around. The front wheels are 18 x 8 with 5 1/8 BS and the tires are 255/45/18's at 27 inches tall. I have a slight tire clearance issue with the frame at full radius turn and should have only gone with 4 7/8 BS. It is a fairly easy cure by changing the stops in the steering box but I haven't gotten to that yet.

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Redrum (or Mike)

68 Corvette - 383 CI, 427 HP, 700R4, 12.56 @ 108 MPH
69 SS Chevelle - 502 CI, 610 HP, 2004R, 1320 unknown
97 Z-28 - totally stock still under 12,000 miles

Why does California have the most lawyers in the country
and New Jersey have the most toxic waste sites?

New Jersey got first choice.

[This message has been edited by Redrum (edited 04-09-2002).]

Hmmmm... I might have to buy a pair of 17 x 9.5's for the back of my car. Heck the wheels were only $20 more than the tires... Maybe when I need a pair of tires. Thanks for the info Redrum. I sure wish ARE made 8.5" and 9" wheels, going from 8" to 9.5" is just too big of a jump.

I hope I don't have any clearance issues in front. I went with 17 x 8" with 4.75" bsp all around... the Baer's widen the track by .300 per side at the rear (not a problem) but by 5/8" per side at the front. I'm worried about the tire catching the front of the fender in a turn. Right now I can fit two fingers in there, but just barely. When I get my front brakes on and the wheels are pushed out another 5/8", I'm worried I might have a clearance issue. My tires are only 26.1" tall though, so I might be OK if you're only having slight issues at 27" diameter. I did however try 15 x 8 rallys with 235/60/15s (26.1" od) with 4" backspacing, and I was OK, so figure my new 4.75 bsp wheels minus the 5/8" track increase would be comparable to a 4.125" bsp wheel on my stock suspension. If 4" bsp wheel cleared stock, I don't think I'll have an issue with a 4.75" bsp wheel and the Baers, at least I hope...

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Redrum:
Here is what a real 18 inch wheel looks like. The tires are 28.4 inches tall and I really like the look. The sidewalls are over 5 inches tall and very close to the height of a stock tire. In addition, the rear has been dropped 2 inches. The drilled and slotted rotors are Baer's. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gif

So who thinks they don't look great? They sure as heck are not rubberbands and this car is as far from rice as any other Chevelle!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well, um yeah, well the giant wheels do look extra good with a set of those brakes behind them. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif



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ACES member:#3722
68 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68vette.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle2.jpg)
1st Car (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thads68bu.jpg) 1984-86, original 6cyl, then 74-350, then 327, then 454 :)

I was happy with my 15" Rallys until I decided my car needed to stop and turn as fast as it goes in a straight line, so I picked up full Global West front/rear suspension parts, and I needed the 17's to clear my Baer brakes. And yes Thad, big wheels look best with big brakes in them. (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/brakes/rear_install/rear_brake_installed_in_wheel_2.jpg) =)

If GW would ever get my front A-arms to me, I could get the front end put together and go drive the darn thing! I'd rather wait another month and a half for my GW stuff than buy Hotchkis and have it by this Friday... hehehe

I'm probably gonna be sorry I asked, but
Gokou: What does a brake set up like that cost ?

I rebuilt my suspension, with poly bushings, and stock type components, bigger swaybars, and KYB shocks. When I was done, I was totally happy with the results. Now I think I want to do as you have done.

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ACES member:#3722
68 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68vette.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle2.jpg)
1st Car (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thads68bu.jpg) 1984-86, original 6cyl, then 74-350, then 327, then 454 :)

I suggest that you be firmly seated in your chair before reading the rest of my post, Thad. =)

-Front Track system, 13" rotors, natural finish calipers, on B-Body spindles: $1275

-Rear Touring system, natural finish calipers: $735

-Upgrade front rotors to 2-piece: $270

-Upgrade rear rotors to 2-piece: $270

-Slot/Crossdrill/Zinc wash rotors: $120 per pair ($240 total)

Included in the prices are lug nuts (the front rotors use larger studs than stock), braided stainless lines for each rear caliper and both front calipers (oddly enough, a frame to rear axle stainless hose wasn't included), new master cylinder, parking brake cables, and all necessary bracketry/parts. The front spindles/brakes are preassembled and ready to bolt on out of the box. So far everything was included (so far, don't have the fronts on yet) but I elected to buy new bolts to hold the caliper mounting brackets to the rear axle. And speaking of the rear axles, I had to machine my axles slightly so the rotors would slide over. I also elected to have Classic Tube in NY whip me up some new master cylinder to distribution block lines (already cut/fitted for the adjustable proportioning valve from Baer) as I can't find a halfway decent double flaring tool to modify my brake lines.

My only problem with the Baer's so far is the instructions are VERY skimpy, considering you're completely retrofitting your brakes. Also, the rear calipers sport "RH" and "LH" stamps on the parking brake mechanisms. These must apply to their original application, because for a Chevelle the stamping is reversed. The caliper stamped RH goes on the LH side of the car, and vise-versa. Also, I didn't like their suggested method of using a hose clamp to secure the rear brake lines when you bend them, so I drilled and bolted the line brackets to the caliper mounting brackets. Much cleaner.

That's only part of the bill, then all the new components from Global West: Gen 2 Upper a-arms, new lower a-arms, del-a-lum bushings for the front, rear TBC-4 lowers, new front/rear springs, and 1 1/8 swaybar in front. Doug at GW strongly advised against a 1 1/4 front bar, as it would make the car much more prone to oversteering, the 1 1/8 bar will provide close to neutral handling. No rear bar, again per Doug's recommendation.

I have pics of the brakes and the rear install HERE (http://www.jimdyerchevyclassics.com/stuff/brakes/) if you're interested.

[This message has been edited by Gokou (edited 04-11-2002).]

Gokou, Thanks for the reply.
I checked out the picture link you provided, and it really looks like a nice set up.

But OUCH ! Three Thousand Dollar Brakes !
Oh well some guys spend 3 times that on the engine without a thought for brakes.
I'll have to make do, at least for a while http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
Maybe next year. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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ACES member:#3722
68 Corvette (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/68vette.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle.jpg)
68 SS-396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thad68velle2.jpg)
1st Car (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/thads68bu.jpg) 1984-86, original 6cyl, then 74-350, then 327, then 454 :)

I spent lots more than the cost of the brakes on the motor, and lots more than both and the rest of the car... I have no problem spending money on overkill brakes because they may one day save my investment should I have to stop fast. They also look awesome, which is a nice bonus =) Upgrading the brakes were always on my list. I actually wanted to get them on before I built a motor, but things ended up happening in the reverse order.

My stock discs (even with good pads) left a LOT to be desired in fast stops from 75+, and were nearly useless from 120+ stops. As for even higher speeds, I found myself saying "what brakes?" Not that I go that fast often, but when I do, I would like to be able to stop in a hurry without worrying about the brakes going south on me. I think these will do the trick. Can't say yet, haven't driven the car.

i've got the chrome 16' ralleys and love the hell out of em (16x10)people always look at them and woder whats different about them.they make my car look modern but still classic.i'll goto my buddy's today and take a digital picture and post it

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71' chevelle 98' bmw ppg red,16'x10' chrome rally's,1964 327 bored 30
over crane energizer,462 casting heads.fast enough for fun

After getting the Power Steering set up and the front aligned close to right the 5 1/8 inch backspacing with the 255 wide 27 inch tires is ALMOST a 100% no rub fit. I have a 1 1/8 inch front sway bar and on a full to the stop turn there is a very slight rub on the sway bar. It is so slight that after about a dozen turns in the test the paint has not been removed from the sway bar and the tire remains unmarked. I will say that 5 1/8 inch is the absolute maximum rear spacing for the front on a 69.

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Redrum (or Mike)

68 Corvette - 383 CI, 427 HP, 700R4, 12.56 @ 108 MPH
69 SS Chevelle - 502 CI, 610 HP, 2004R, 1320 unknown
97 Z-28 - totally stock still under 14,000 miles

How Many Roads Must A Man Travel Down Before He Admits He is Lost?

As soon as I can get my car on the road I can let you know how my 4.75" backspace 26.1" tall tires clear. I think I'll have no problems, especially after I get the Baer's on the front and the track width is bumped out by 5/8" per side. I'd install them if Global West would ever get around to building my a-arms... (grrrrrrrrrrrrrr.)