How many of you out there have converted to power windows,and what do you think about them? When i bought my 65 chevelle,the previous owner converted the car to power windows.I'm thinking of going back to manual roll up windows?The existing power windows are binding and couple don't go up all the way.Once again what do you guys think?

Thanks, Art

It is a convertible.... Art

I'm spoiled
Gotta have the power windows.
I put them in my 59 and the 66
Most all of my cars since Iwas 17 had power windows----if not factory---installed by me

Same with a tilt steering column----Gotta have it, and all of the cars since I was a teen
had it----a few I have put in-----Ididit's in the 59 & 66

Gonna put the power window switches in the console top of the 66, not stock, but more comfortable for me (plus I don't need to cut holes in the new door panels).

Art, the windows may just need proper adjustment to eliminate the binding and raise them to the top weather strip rail. If all the motors work, I'd try adjusting them before replacing them with manual regulators. Then there is the problem of finding all the parts for converting back to manual.

I'm like Bryan, I'm kinda spoiled with power windows. Did the previous owner convert with factory style units, i.e., the motors and all or use a universal kit that retains the manual mechanism and simply a motor to turn the regulator handle like these?

http://www.a1electric.com/spal/3300-0030-0147-450.jpg

If it is this type, converting back is simple. Just take them off and put handles back on.

I had this type on my 67 SS396 sport coupe on all 4 windows and never had a problem with them. I even went one step further and put express up and down on the two fronts with a remote control on the key fob.

I think i need a whole new system.The conversion has been in there since 1979.I just don't want to go out and spend a thousand dollars on a new power window system and still have problems.I guess if done right they can be reliable.

Art

I say keep them. That passenger side quarter window is too far to
reach! I think I broke a rib trying to reach back and roll that baby up once!

I think i need a whole new system.The conversion has been in there since 1979.I just don't want to go out and spend a thousand dollars on a new power window system and still have problems.I guess if done right they can be reliable.

Art
It should only be a few hundred bucks.

I'd like to see an example of a set up,for a few hundred bucks.

Thanks, Art

"Few" is a relative term but A1 Electric has the factory style with motors on the regulators for $250 each, front and rear, or $500 total.

http://www.a1electric.com/images8/gm87-ka.jpg

http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_chevy.htm

The ones like I had, like the kit in my post above, are $120 a pair and worked quite well. They took very little effort to install and didn't require removing any internal workings of the windows. Installation is shown below. ;)

Seems like there is less to go wrong with an old roll up style window. Unless the car is driven a lot maybe the money could be better spent elsewhere. Just a thought.
Tony

hmmmm that electric to manual conversion... looks interesting.. but seems to good to be true...

hmmmm that electric to manual conversion... looks interesting.. but seems to good to be true...

Both of my Elkies have Electric life regulators
the 59 uses the streetrod kit----some mods and fabrication required.

the 66 was a direct bolt into the existing regulator holes. These are some pretty fast moving windows too.

Add the (extra cost ) switch kit in the Chevelle and you are pretty much ready to rock and roll.

Unless the switches you have in the car now are 5-pin polarity reversing, you will have to get them. Electric Life (or any other aftermarket for that matter) are NOT compatible with the 3-pin switches.

Switch kits run from $50 to $150 and will have the wiring as well.

Both of my Elkies have Electric life regulators
the 59 uses the streetrod kit----some mods and fabrication required.

the 66 was a direct bolt into the existing regulator holes. These are some pretty fast moving windows too.

Add the (extra cost ) switch kit in the Chevelle and you are pretty much ready to rock and roll.

Unless the switches you have in the car now are 5-pin polarity reversing, you will have to get them. Electric Life (or any other aftermarket for that matter) are NOT compatible with the 3-pin switches.

Switch kits run from $50 to $150 and will have the wiring as well.

--
I am liking this idea... Sure would help after the burnout box...

... .any pix with the door panels on? What do you do to cover up where the crank went?

What's the difference between 3 pin or 5 pin switches,i'm new to the game. Also in order to access the rear electric windows,i'm assuming you have to remove back seat? If so how does that come out,is it bolted in,or does it just slide in.I just bought the car less than a year ago and i've been doing any work necessary .So, i'm going to fix my windows one way or another.:thumbsup:The switches that are in the car are gm style.The drivers door has 4 switches one for each window,and each other window has one switch.

Thanks, Art

Art.. Rear seat on the bottom: get in the car.. and push the base of it backwards.. quick blast with your knee.. will pop it out of the hooks on the bottom.
Door panels.. easy.
May have to remove back as well on your car. (dont have that year) Most likely 2 bolts on the bottom of back seat.. about 1/4 way in from each side. Then lift UP and OUT.

B-Man,
I have new door panels so there is no hole yet for the window crank (not gonna be either).
The power window switches should go in the same spot as the crank with some trimming on the back of the panels----the driver door should even have perferatons where trimming is needed.

Art,
Older power windows used the motor to body (or door) as a ground. These switches have one power position, 1 up position, & one down position.

The newer motors do not use the motor body for a ground path.
The newer 5 pin and six pin switches have one position for power, one position for up, one position for down, 2 grounding positions-----and the 6th would be for a small lamp.
When testing these motors one lead to pos on the battery and one to neg-----reversing will make the motor run the other way.

The older motors----batery ground to the motor body and one of the wires will make it run one way and the other will make it run the other way.

The driver switch will not have 5 pins for each window----just the driver window, the rest of the switches in that switch body (GM type switch will only have 4 (example a 2-window car will have 9 pins on the river switch and 5 on the passenger door.

A 4-window will have 17 pins on the driver door and 5 pins on all of the rest of the switches.

thanks

I removed all of the back seat interior last night.I took a look at the rear power windows. It looks like they built the car around the back windows how do you get in there to do anything.

Thanks, Art

I removed all of the back seat interior last night.I took a look at the rear power windows. It looks like they built the car around the back windows how do you get in there to do anything.

Thanks, Art

--
putting a new quarter glass in is a magic trick too......

If i could go back to the original manual roll ups i would.I'm stuck now.What's more frustrating is i have a really nice car,and the previous owner did a real crappy job on these windows,i'm going to have to probably re-do everything.

Art