I'm in the middle of replacing my wiring with a AAW kit. My alternator was fried in the past. It was external that I bought for $5. The new kit has a internal connection. What is the best way and which alternator do I get that will work with this set up?

If you're installing the Classic Update Kit from AAW, then a 10SI or 12SI alternator would be compatible electrically. There are plenty of versions available up to 140A or so (12SI)Then there is the issue of brackets to mount the different alternator from what you had previously. Again, there are plenty of choices. Summit Racing has a good selection of alternators from economical to highly decorated. Their product selection wizard works good to home in on your choice.

I was hoping I could just run to Schucks or Oreily in the morning and pick one up. I guess if Summit is the only way to go I can wait a week to have it shipped. Are all internals running around $150? Last alternator I bought was like 50 bucks.

You could buy one locally. The problem is those parts stores search by year and model car. Summit ships out of Reno, NV. If you order today, you'll get it on Tues or Wed.

Ya I noticed that when trying to use their websites. Only external's would show up.

I would guess around $75 plus core charge, but then it's been awhile since I bought one.
Just tell the local parts house its for an '85 Chevy truck with a 350 motor.

NAPA has some for around that price. I used some advised I found on madelectrical.com. Should I go ahead and spend the extra $$ for a 12si over the 10si or does it really matter? 12si is 94am vs 10si with 63amps.

For future reference, Autozone has the internal regulators at a good price, and they come up when I requested my replacement alt. for my 72 Chevelle under the 5.7L or so engine size. (not the engine I have in there, but it's the right alt.)

order one for a 78 Camaro with 350, and A/C. The brackets will fit.

hey, quick question about the 10si. 3 wire, internal regualtor. If I disconnect the positive battery terminal while the engine in running should the engine die?


cause it does.

hey, quick question about the 10si. 3 wire, internal regualtor. If I disconnect the positive battery terminal while the engine in running should the engine die?


cause it does.

That test should never be done because you are risking frying things when the voltage has no battery to go to and goes wild. Otherwise, be prepared to buy a new alternator and anything else that happened to be turned on afterwords.

In my 70 SS 454 (Sta. Wgn.) driver with fact. A/C, I believe its a stock 63 amp. alt. ( That was on the org. 307- A/C engine ) I have an electronic cruise control, Fac. A/C, Fact. AM/FM, Relays on headlights, Wells electronic Volt. Reg.,
No issues with anything electrical. The wagon has been driven about 33,000 miles, Or eight years of summer driving with the Org. 1970-63 Amp. Alt. that already had a gillizion miles on it.
A 63 amp. Alt should handle your needs unless a big radio, fans or some welding is in the future.
Bob

That test should never be done because you are risking frying things when the voltage has no battery to go to and goes wild. Otherwise, be prepared to buy a new alternator and anything else that happened to be turned on afterwords.


hmm. didn't know that, thanks. And not trying to hijack the thread, just didnt want to start another 10si one.