Looking to upgrade the front rotors on my elky and wondered what brand and type of rotor others have used (and are pleased with). Drilled and slotted or slotted only? Also, best place to buy, etc.

Thanks in advance.

If you must have drilled rotors, I'd run Baer 2-peice. Since it's for looks only they look the best.

Originally posted by djw69elky:
Drilled and slotted or slotted only?

Thanks in advance. Slotted can be resurfaced should they need it.

Drilled cannot be resurfaced and heat / stress cracks around the drilled out area can be an issue.

Slotted will do fine and work good at expelling gases and heat. I believe the only other advantage to slotted AND drilled is SOME additional cooling benefits, gas expulsion and a lighter rotor (less rotating mass)

Having said that, I plan to build more of a pro-touring car but will not be going with drilled rotors. Hydroboost, hefty calipers and slotted rotors will do me fine.

Go to pro-touring. com or corner-carvers.com for the real story on drilled rotors. My posts on p-t.com are fairly tame, posts on c-c.com are ----not politically correct (keep kids away from computer when reading posts-NSFW).

Originally posted by Midnight Marauder:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by djw69elky:
Drilled and slotted or slotted only?

Thanks in advance. Slotted can be resurfaced should they need it.

Drilled cannot be resurfaced and heat / stress cracks around the drilled out area can be an issue.

Slotted will do fine and work good at expelling gases and heat. I believe the only other advantage to slotted AND drilled is SOME additional cooling benefits, gas expulsion and a lighter rotor (less rotating mass)

Having said that, I plan to build more of a pro-touring car but will not be going with drilled rotors. Hydroboost, hefty calipers and slotted rotors will do me fine. </font>[/QUOTE]Midnight,
You still have the stress concentration factors with slotted rotors as well. Cracks can and will form on these rotors.

The amount of rotational mass that is lost through drilling and/or slotting is negligible when it comes to rotational inertia calcs. If you can truly feel the inertia difference than please hirer your butt out to NASA pronto!

As for the drilled/slotted running cooler just remember the simple concepts of what a heat sink should be (generally you want as much mass as possible and a large surface area).

Don't buy into the advertising dollars.

Joe

Originally posted by 72SSAbody:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Midnight Marauder:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by djw69elky:
Drilled and slotted or slotted only?

Thanks in advance. Slotted can be resurfaced should they need it.

Drilled cannot be resurfaced and heat / stress cracks around the drilled out area can be an issue.

Slotted will do fine and work good at expelling gases and heat. I believe the only other advantage to slotted AND drilled is SOME additional cooling benefits, gas expulsion and a lighter rotor (less rotating mass)

Having said that, I plan to build more of a pro-touring car but will not be going with drilled rotors. Hydroboost, hefty calipers and slotted rotors will do me fine. </font>[/QUOTE]Midnight,
You still have the stress concentration factors with slotted rotors as well. Cracks can and will form on these rotors.

The amount of rotational mass that is lost through drilling and/or slotting is negligible when it comes to rotational inertia calcs. If you can truly feel the inertia difference than please hirer your butt out to NASA pronto!

As for the drilled/slotted running cooler just remember the simple concepts of what a heat sink should be (generally you want as much mass as possible and a large surface area).

Don't buy into the advertising dollars.

Joe </font>[/QUOTE]Thanks Joe. Not that I can feel any type of difference (car is in pieces) but was more thinking of rotating mass as it applies to bigger / heavier wheels in regards to stopping distance. I knew it was very negligible but thought it was one of those things that all added up in the end (lightweight wheels, brakes, etc)

The stress is there on the slotted but isnt it still more prevalent in slotted / drilled rotors since the holes are all the way through the rotor as opposed to more of a shaved cut?

Thanks for the info, all this stuff helps out a great deal (especially since my actual rotor / caliper combo is still up ion the air, too) adn I leanr every damn day I am here from guys like yourself.

Thanks for the replys, guys. So.....can anyone suggest a brand and a source for slotted in addition to Baer? Spotted these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7927708566&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT) on ebay. Looks like a decent deal to me. Any comments?

what about the upgraded dual piston calipers and performance pads from www.ssbrakes.com (http://www.ssbrakes.com)
I was thinking about those. I will be mounting 16 or 17" wheels and i want it stop better than stock with the 14"

Guys, I'll start my preaching now.

You're brakes aren't what stops your car. Sounds crazy doesn't it?

One of the best articles to explain what goes on in a hydraulic brake system was published in Grassroots Motorsports Mag a couple of years ago and you can read it here (http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm).

Its a lengthy read, but well worth it.

It sounds like the majority of us in this thread are asking two different things. (1.)One guy wants to stop his car better, (2.) but at the same time he wants to "upgrade" the rotors to drilled/slotted.

I'm willing to bet that a simple "refurbish" of the braking system (good quality stock replacement rotor, caliper, pad, shocks etc.) will yield the same results if you went with the d/s direct replacement rotor in the combo (everything else being equal). And I'm willing to bet that if you go with the d/s rotors you'll be changing back to stock replacement rotors down the road.

If you really want to make an improvement in your 60-0 times spend the money where it matters the most....your tires. That's what stops your car.

I couldn't convince my brother not to go with the d/s rotors on his '93 cobra brake equipped Mustang...guess who got a good deal on '99+ brembo stock replacement rotors? :D

And guess who's begging whom to give him back his stock brembo rotors?? :D

Joe