Hey guys, my '68 chevelle that I bought was painted with primer, now it has hairline cracks all over it. What are my options?

remove it all

That's the only option. No matter what you put over it, the cracks will eventually come through

Thats what I was afraid of...

This is the way to get bondo off, no dust.


Air hammer http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--A...mers-cat.shtml (http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--Air_Tools--Air_Hammers-cat.shtml)

just throttle it down a tad and use a rounded or not sharp bit, it will vibrate the bondo off, and no it won't hurt the metal, just take it easy.

I was grinding some off one day and my neighbor, young guy just out of tech body work school walked up and said hold on.

He grabbed my air hammer, and I said no way, he said watch this, it works really slick.

Rob

This is the way to get bondo off, no dust.


Air hammer http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--A...mers-cat.shtml (http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--Air_Tools--Air_Hammers-cat.shtml)

just throttle it down a tad and use a rounded or not sharp bit, it will vibrate the bondo off, and no it won't hurt the metal, just take it easy.

I was grinding some off one day and my neighbor, young guy just out of tech body work school walked up and said hold on.

He grabbed my air hammer, and I said no way, he said watch this, it works really slick.

Rob

If it has hairline cracks all over it I would bet it's lacquer based products cracking-strip it down to bare metal and start the repaint by applying a good epoxy primer.

Rob, good to see you're still here helping others. Did you ever graduate to SPI epoxy primer? I know you were always a foolish fan of the DoPoorlyLessFilling DPLF

If it has hairline cracks all over it I would bet it's lacquer based products cracking-strip it down to bare metal and start the repaint by applying a good epoxy primer.

Rob, good to see you're still here helping others. Did you ever graduate to SPI epoxy primer? I know you were always a foolish fan of the DoPoorlyLessFilling DPLF

Yeah I was pretty foolish to waste my money on DPLF, looking at the results of DPLF, see picture below.:D
36

http://www.1969supersport.com/047.jpg

I guess this was a waste, maybe I should have checked with you first.

And yes Robert I still post a little on here, thank you.:thumbsup:

Rob

Well, I'd look on the bright side. If you ever want to redo that frame it'll be easy to strip that DPLF off, a lacquer thinner soaked rag will wash it off.

Well, I'd look on the bright side. If you ever want to redo that frame it'll be easy to strip that DPLF off, a lacquer thinner soaked rag will wash it off.

I shouldn't take the time to answer this but I will.

I probably have 500 hours on this frame, just a whole lot of blasting and sanding and filling and sanding, and I'm pretty proud of it.

Now lets put this into a little more perspective.

Baddbob just gets done with a really nice classic car, it looks really good, he put a lot of time on it, he's pretty stoked about it, and somebody says you were foolish to use that kind of paint, when you going to graduate to a better paint.

Well, I'll tell you what, its not very nice to be on the receiving end of it.

This chassis was painted over 5 years ago and it looks this good yet today.

So lets put all the cards on the table, you get me some pictures of a chassis you did that you think is right on the money, put out about 50 pictures, but make them really clear close ups like I did with mine.

Make sure there really clear, you will find out that also takes some time to get.

Rob

Yeah I was pretty foolish to waste my money on DPLF, looking at the results of DPLF, see picture below.:D
36

http://www.1969supersport.com/047.jpg

I guess this was a waste, maybe I should have checked with you first.

And yes Robert I still post a little on here, thank you.:thumbsup:

Rob

Looking good to me...:yes:

I shouldn't take the time to answer this but I will.

I probably have 500 hours on this frame, just a whole lot of blasting and sanding and filling and sanding, and I'm pretty proud of it.

Now lets put this into a little more perspective.

Baddbob just gets done with a really nice classic car, it looks really good, he put a lot of time on it, he's pretty stoked about it, and somebody says you were foolish to use that kind of paint, when you going to graduate to a better paint.

Well, I'll tell you what, its not very nice to be on the receiving end of it.

This chassis was painted over 5 years ago and it looks this good yet today.

So lets put all the cards on the table, you get me some pictures of a chassis you did that you think is right on the money, put out about 50 pictures, but make them really clear close ups like I did with mine.

Make sure there really clear, you will find out that also takes some time to get.

Rob

Good post Rob...I sprayed two gal. of SPI and it is good stuff but the
post that said something like "most epoxies are crap if not SPI" is just
nuts. I do like SPI but then again I'm just fine with Matrix so I'm sticking
with it. Many brands of epoxy are just fine as long as they DTM. Btw
your frame looks great:thumbsup:

Chuck

Good post Rob...I sprayed two gal. of SPI and it is good stuff but the
post that said something like "most epoxies are crap if not SPI" is just
nuts. I do like SPI but then again I'm just fine with Matrix so I'm sticking
with it. Many brands of epoxy are just fine as long as they DTM. Btw
your frame looks great:thumbsup:

Chuck

There are a few other good epoxies out there but most are definately crap compared to SPI IMO.

I guess I need to Rub Rubadub the wrong way now and then for all the negative he's posted about SPI's epoxy in the past without ever trying it. Seriously wish he would do some testing. DPLF and it's copies are way behind in all aspects of performance.

Rob, your frame looks very good but there's a lot of defination lost/buried if thats a restoration. I guess I just like all the factory stretch marks and spotwelds to show crisp and clean while still having smooth and speck free finish. Watch the UV rays on that epoxy or it'll chaulk. There's a lot of good SS urethanes that would provide a nice layer of protection over it.

Oh for gods sake! The car never had a frame that nice from the factory! Stop the bitching and enjoy what you have. Drive the car with a smile on your face that's what it's all about anyway. In a 100 years no one will even know you were here.

Lol

There is a big difference between DPLF with 402(bad) and DPLF with 401(good).

To the original poster, get all the old cracked stuff off.

Heres some pictures of the 12 bolt, thought maybe you guys might want to see them, same epoxy as the chassis.


http://www.1969supersport.com/sander13.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/sander14.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/sander15.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/sander16.jpg

http://www.1969supersport.com/sander17.jpgBACK TO MAIN PAGE (http://www.1969supersport.com/index.html)

Rob

That is an excellent looking frame and rear end there, Rob. :thumbsup:

I may actually be beginning to understand this whole "too nice to drive thing." Ahhhhh, who am I kidding? I will never feel that way. But that is excellent work. :)

The sad truth is when you've got heat checked/cracked lacquer paint the only option is to strip it down to bare metal.

I spent most of this afternoon ,and evening, stripping down the roof on the '70. It was heat checked real bad, and had rust. We got the paint off, sanded down the rust, and wiped it down several times with lacquer thinner. As it was getting dusk we rattle can primed it so to seal it up temporairly. There are still a couple spots that need the rust worked out of. It's smoother now than it was, but it still needs work.

Next is the hood, then the doors. When they are stripped down we are going to use the red epoxy primer then shoot it with some Cranberry Red lacquer. The fenders won't be done yet since the fenders that are going on the car are off right now. They need lower patch panels, but are other wise good. I guess 3/4 red paint is better than different shades of primer. Even if it's not a finished paint job yet.

Both wind shields need to be taken out and have spots welded up. But it's high time the car was red again. Even if it is a temporary paint job. I want to see a '70 Chevelle Super Sport with red paint dammit. :D

Sounds like your learning a lot Michael, keep up the good work.:thumbsup:

And thank you for the nice compliment.

Rob

Rob, if you want to get the original casting look back on the centersection of the rearend I know how to do it, send me a PM and I can lay out the proceedure and list the materials. Did you use filler on the axle tube plugwelds or weld them up?