I need some advice on what materials I need to get?

First off, my project is a '72 convertible. New sheetmetal includes:
NOS driver fender, (2) Goodmark Qtr panels, and CI hood.

So I have some stripping to do on the few original panels left (it has one repaint and I need to get to down to original metal). I know some people prefer mechanical stripping with wheels or DA sanders. But if I was to chemical strip some items, what product is recommended?

I will be ordering a lot of body materials from Summit.
I'm a little confused with the many many selections out there.

From many previous posts, Evercoat Rage Gold seems to be very popular. Since this is a Body Filler, do I also need a glazing putty during blocking? What the difference between metal glaze vs. polyester glaze?

My plan is
1. to get to metal
2. epoxy coat
3. Body work. (Filler or glazing putty?)
4. High build Primer
5. Block sand (fixing any high/low issues) Is this where I use glazing material?
6. High build Primer
7. Block again
8. Final paint (sealer, bc/cc)

You really shouldn't need glazing putty if you use the Evercoat Rage Gold. The high build primer will fill in any minor pinholes in the filler. Depending on how big of an area needs to be worked a little more after the first application of high build and blocking, I like to use Evercoat Metal Glaze. It's a thinner filler that leaves no pinholes. Another thing you should consider is the use of a guidecoat over the high build primer....a spray bomb of black lacquer will do the trick. HEre is how I go through the process....

Metal work
Media Blast
Epoxy Prime entire shell
Rough out body work
High build primer/block
Additional bodywork
High build primer/guidecoat/block (do this a few times). The high build primer will fill in most of the very minor low areas and the guidecoat will expose any high/low areas.
I rough the bodywork out with 80 then 180 and start the primer blocking process with 180 then move to 220 then 400. I normally do a couple high build coats and block with 400. Some guys leave well enough alone at 400, some go to 500/600/800 depending on personal preferences.
Last....Seal/paint/clear

You might have all ready seen this, its a couple years old but anyway if it will help.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200149&highlight=sprayable+body+filler

Rob

Thanks Tom And Rob.
That answers some questions.
So I really just need Evercoat Rage Gold for intial body work and then Metal Glaze during fine tuning when blocking on the high build primer.
Any idea on the quantities I'll need? As you see, most panels are replacements and the others don't appear too bad...

Heres a sample of what you need to find out about, just google them up.

http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/Feather%20Fill%204-1%20Primer%20PIS%20062009.pdf

Whatever filler or paint or primer you are going to use, you need to take the time and search it all up, or go down to your local auto body supply and ask for the sheets for what your going to do.

If they don't have them on hand, they should be able to print them up, if they can't, you have the wrong place to do business.

By getting all these sheets together you can study it and get a game plan, like what is (compatible) with what.

I have always said reading and researching what you are about to do, could be worth $20 to $40 an hour in your pocket while your reading it.

By looking it up you will get the latest technical bulletins, like the thing on sprayable filler, I researched a little on that 2 years ago, so how much of it is up to speed.

One thing I must say, you are asking the questions before you do it, thats a sign of an intelligent man thats watches his hard earned money.:thumbsup:

Rob

One more thing here, I have called ppg's technical line a few times, so get the numbers of what ever products your going to use or think about using, and call them up.

Make a log of all the products your using, and if you ever sell your ride thats a nice thing to tell a buyer, tells him you were taking the time to do things right.

If you have a fender bender, you have all the paint codes.

Rob

Thanks Rob.

Since you mentioned PPG, I was given this list by my Auto Body Instructor a few years ago. (I took an auto body class at the local technical school.)
all PPG stuff
Epoxy Primer DP-90LF with DP402 Catayst
High Build Primer K38 with K201 Catalyst
Sealer NCS-2004 (grey)
Base coat color DBC (will be original Mohave Gold)
Clear Coat Global D894

Sound OK? My instructor also used to sell paints at the local auto paint supply store.

I haven't painted any thing, bikes, or cars in over three years, so what I could tell you would be all old information. Sorry I can't help.

Rob

I would use the epoxy as sealer vs the NCS.

In addition, primer should NOT be used to fill pinholes in filler or correct bad bodywork. Its meant to correct minor surface imperfections.

If you can feel the low spot, primer will NOT correct it!

Poly glaze is a thinner filler which allows glaze to spread easier, sand easier and feather out into the surrounding metal better then regular filler.

You should also not have to use poly glaze once you reach the primer stage. Yes you can use it to repair minor spots but your body work should have been straighter to begin with.

I use glaze to finish off the repair. Regular filler is worked straight enough for primer but I use 1 thin coat of glaze and spread it over the repair and into the surrounding area. This ensures the repair is fully blended into the metal. Once the glaze is sanded smooth then you spray your primer.

All filler work should be done prior to spraying an urethane hi-build primer...Eric

Thanks Eric.