Just got my CPP dual reservoir for my disc.drum set up. Mechanic has been with their tech support and everything seems to be installed correctly and vacuum is fine. We are still getting a split second delay between when you hit the pedal and when the brakes take hold. The stopping power is there wether you are going slow or fast, forward or reverse but that split second delay is a problem.

Thoughts?

Checked the rod and legnth is fine. Bled brakes several times.

Toyota :D

toyota :d


Haha!

If it was a Toyota, that would explain everthing.:D

beat me to it

What a bunch of comedians.

Given what you stated you have checked, have you considered any of the below being the culprit (depending on how your system is set up)

The Right Valves

Using the correct valving for your application is critical to the proper operation of your brake system. There are four types of valves that perform different functions to the brake system.

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•Metering Valves
These valves are used to equalize braking action of a Disc/Drum brake system by preventing the disc brakes from applying until about 75 - 135 psi has built up in the lines. This delays the disc brakes and allows the drums to catch up. This provides rear stability on wet surfaces and reduces front pad wear. Metering valves are generally located in the lines to the disc brakes. In most of our kits, the metering valve is a part of the combination/prop valve.
•Proportioning Valves
The function of the proportioning valve is to limit pressure to the rear brakes relative to pedal force, especially when high pressure is required to apply the front disc. This prevents the rear wheels from locking up as weight is shifted forward during braking. Proportioning Valves are generally located in the brake line to the rear brakes and sometimes are incorporated into the master cylinder. They are available as either preset or adjustable valves. Note that adjustable proportioning valves are not DOT approved for street driving and should only be used for racing applications!
•Residual Check Valves
These valves are used to hold a certain amount of pressure in the lines even when the pedal is not pressed. This is a sort of preload line pressure to activate the brakes more quickly. They will give a higher, harder and more responsive pedal. Residual check valves should not be used as a substitute for a properly functioning system. For instance, do not use residual check valves in place of complete and proper bleeding procedures as presented in this guide and our Brake Bleeding Guide. Check valves will most likely be necessary when the master cylinder is lower than the calipers or hard lines run higher than the master cylinder fluid level. In disc brakes a 2 lb. residual check valve prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag. With drum brakes, a 10 lb. valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums. Residual Pressure Valves are generally color coded blue for 2 lb. and red for 10 lb. for easy identification.
•Combination Valves
These valves offer multiple functionality in a single unit. They combine the functions of both a metering valve and a proportioning valve with the addition of a brake light warning switch. The brake light warning switch signals when there is an imbalance of pressure in the system caused by a problem in the front or rear brakes. By far the best valve to use for all disc brake conversions. All our kits use DOT approved Combination Valves designed specifically for either Disc/Disc or Disc/Drum applications.

Sounds to me like you have a metering valve or check valve problem.

BTW - the above info on valves is a copy / paste from CPP's site. No mention that these were tested / checked but cant fathom that would be overlooked by a mechanic who is working with CPP and has verified everything. But then again "installed" correctly" vs "a malfunctioning / DOA part installed correctly) is a big difference.

Thanks for the info. I will check into this.

I've driven new vehicles that feel that way--There is a Ford van I drive at work sometimes; hit the pedal as hard as you can and it just seems to take forever to apply. Under normal driving conditions it's fine, but if you really mash it, the pedal goes real slow and makes me nervous. My Suburban has it to a lesser extent; if you hit it really hard and fast it doesn't seem to repond as quickly as I feel it should.

Do you also install a new booster at the same time? After I installed a new repro booster on my Malibu it has a little resistance at the top of the pedal travel which seems to delay brake (drums) actuation a split second when braking gently.

Is the head space, the area between the end of the inner pushrod in the booster and when it actually contacts the M/C OK?

I'd also be looking at:

Drum shoes out of adjustment

Disc caliper pistons sticking--or--they're a low-drag caliper that needs a bunch of fluid to push the piston out. Some folks have been installing springs between the pads to "improve gas mileage" and of course that's going to create problems.

Restricted brake plumbing including but not limited to swollen-closed rubber hoses is another possibility.

Do you also install a new booster at the same time? After I installed a new repro booster on my Malibu it has a little resistance at the top of the pedal travel which seems to delay brake (drums) actuation a split second when braking gently.

New booster that came with the kit. But the delay existed before the new mc/booster kit was installed.

Is the head space, the area between the end of the inner pushrod in the booster and when it actually contacts the M/C OK?

Checked that and it was fine.

I'd also be looking at:

Drum shoes out of adjustment

Disc caliper pistons sticking--or--they're a low-drag caliper that needs a bunch of fluid to push the piston out. Some folks have been installing springs between the pads to "improve gas mileage" and of course that's going to create problems.

Restricted brake plumbing including but not limited to swollen-closed rubber hoses is another possibility.

Checked all this out. CPP tech support said they get a lot of returns on these kits from people with these issues thinking the kit is the issue. I dont think it is. At this point, I dont have the time and dont want to put in the money to chase it. I just have to be careful but all of these points have been helpful.

A year later and I have decided to get disc brakes in the rear. I really think this booster is a problem. I dont want to do any bug chasing and thinking of getting a whole new set up.

Anyone have any suggestions?