: which master cyl to use with wilwood disk brakes
Didge Aug 26th, 04, 4:03 PM I have just purchased a wilwood disk brake setup for my 67. My car now has 4 wheel drums. I am trying to find a master cylinder that will work with the new brakes. I have been told I should use a 69 to 75 corvette 4 wheel disk MC and it has also been suggested to use a late model ford MC. With both of these applications I need to install a residual valve along with the adjustable proportioning valve in the lines to the rear brakes, I am keeping drums in the back. Now if this is what I need to do, I can handle that, but I am not sure why I can not use a disk/drum MC from late 60's. Any input or insight you have would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Parrydise7 Aug 27th, 04, 9:44 PM Did you do a search? My son and I added Corvette calipers to his 1969 Chevelle. IIRC, (which is why I recommend you do a search), the p/n for the m/c on his 1969 Chevelle, is the same as the one used on Corvettes of similar vintage.
Because yours is a 1967, I'm not sure if that still holds true. That's why I recommend you do a search, and check those part numbers.
Didge Aug 30th, 04, 3:46 PM Parrydise7,
Thanks, for the info, what I am looking for is if I could just buy a disk/drum master cylinder and use that. The disk/disk corvette MC needs residual vale and other items. I am just trying to make this as simple a swap as possible.
Parrydise7 Aug 31st, 04, 4:46 PM I just posted a question that never got answered (which is why I recommend that you do a search). Anyway, we just installed ZO6 calps on my son's 1969 Chevelle. It was originally equipped with drums all the way around. To make a long story short, after a few days, we had a problem with the front brakes self-applying. I posted a question on this board (it shouldn't be hard to find) about solving this problem. I was worried about a reference in the shop manual to residual pressure in the brake lines causing a problem. (Okay, so I guess I'm not making this short, but this is to give you a flavor of the problem).
Not having received any kind of response, I pulled the m/c and turned the pushrod in two turns. We took the car out and after about thirty minutes, we had the same problem. Pulled the m/c, adjusted the pushrod in another two turns, which may be just about the limit of its adjustment. Anyway, we haven't had that problem since.
Now, since your car is an earlier model, I can't say for sure that this is what you are up against. But, before you start throwing parts at it, make sure you have a problem and try the obvious corrections first.
For our 1969 Chevelle, iirc, the m/c is the same as the one on the four-wheel disc Corvette.
If you still aren't satisfied, starting checking part numbers.
Good luck.
Didge Aug 31st, 04, 5:20 PM Parrydise7,
I will keep that in mind. I went ahead the other day and ordered a setup from CPP that they said would work. I got a manual disk/drum MC and their proportining block, which replaces my distribution block. He said it does the metering, proportioning, and has the residual vavle built in for the rear brakes. So this should fix me up when I get all the components.
Did you go power with yours? I have heard everyione say this is a huge upgrade, did it make a big difference in your opinion?
Thanks,
Greg
Parrydise7 Aug 31st, 04, 7:16 PM Whatever Wilwood recommends is what I would do. That company turns out some incredible products.
I don't know yet if it makes a difference. We just completed the swap a short time ago, and I want the brakes to bed in before doing anything.
If I had it to do all over again, I probably wouldn't. It was a lot of work and expensive. And, we had a variety of problems. We had some nice looking Z/28 wheels off a third generation Camaro that looked good, and fit the drums just fine. We had a devil of a time finding wheels that would fit over the calipers. We borrowed quite a few wheels from a wheel distributor in Anaheim, CA who was real helpful.
We finally went with some Corvette wheels, 17 x 8.5 in the front and monster 18 x 9.5 in the rear. Now these wheels are great looking, but, and this is a big but, we had to run adapters to get them to work. We needed 2.25" adapters all the way around.
Even with that we still had a problem. The body had either been mounted a little off kilter, or it shifted. So, we had plenty of clearance between the tire and the driver's side rear fender, and very little clearance on the passenger side. Luckily (?) the body mounting bolts were either loose, or missing (2 were missing), so we got that straightened out.
Needless to say, we ended up spending a lot more money than I planned, even though we got a great looking set of used Corvette wheels from Ronal. Those adapters were $75.00 each (beautiful machined billet aluminum).
It was just a lot of work and quite a bit of money. Now, with that said, knowing what I do now, I probably wouldn't do it again, but I will say that it was worth it. The car looks unbelievable.
We just need to get some drop springs in the front to get a nice rake and it will almost be done. (Read the other post about drop springs and how it didn't drop the car. I'm not sure what we are going to do about that).
Okay, that was probably a lot more info than what you really wanted. Again, good luck.
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