hey guys, had an awful time tonight. so my ps pump was leaking bad, and lucas ps sealant didn't do the trick so i got one from OPG. Have a couple problems.

1) on the back of my old pump there's an exposed bolt end for a bracket mount. the new one does not have one, and i could not even get the old one off of the original. did i get the correct pump?

2) the pulley came off of the old pump just fine. (it's a keyed pulley). but i cannot for the life of me put it on the new one. the shaft is too big, and scarred up the pulley a bit. so i can't get it on far enough that i can get the nut on to secure it in. i also tried putting it back on the old one and it won't budge.

give that it's been over 3 days since i received the pump from OPG, i don't think i can return it without additional fees on my side.

any help appreciated. thanks.

1. old pump with back bracket
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2. old pump with bolt to hold bracket
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3. new pump, no bracket bolt :mad:
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Is that stud in the old unit removeable? There looks to be a plug in about the same place on the new unit...

Is that stud in the old unit removeable? There looks to be a plug in about the same place on the new unit...

i could not get that stud off. even with vice grips and a hammer. the new pump does have a place for it, but it doesn't seem to be threaded. there's wax in there...:confused::confused::confused:

I took apart my power steering pump from my '69 and it look just like yours.

The stud, the bolt and even the threaded inlet are removable. They secure the reservoir to the pump. There is a rubber seal around each hole (between the pump and the reservoir) to prevent leaks. Behind the threaded inlet, there is also a valve and spring.

The holes in your new pump must be threaded.

This is what the bolt and stud look like:

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And the pump assemble:

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even with vice grips and a hammer

Not a real good combo for removing bolts.
Did you try a box end wrench before destroying the bolt? If the head of the bolt is still useable, maybe a box wrench or ratchet with a cheater bar for more leverage? You may need a second set of hands to hold the pump still while you wrestle with that rascal.
They will come out; the same pumps get used in several applications with the bolts in different positions, so there are extra holes (some of which need to be plugged to avoid leaks)

Not a real good combo for removing bolts.
Did you try a box end wrench before destroying the bolt? If the head of the bolt is still useable, maybe a box wrench or ratchet with a cheater bar for more leverage? You may need a second set of hands to hold the pump still while you wrestle with that rascal.
They will come out; the same pumps get used in several applications with the bolts in different positions, so there are extra holes (some of which need to be plugged to avoid leaks)

yea, box wrench, deep socket, pb blaster. i'll give it another shot. i do need another set of hands, or a vice, but i don't have either right now.

any tips on getting the pulley on though? that concerns me more

From your description I hope that you haven't ruined your new pump in trying to install the pulley. GM pumps (up to 1975) had pulleys that were driven by a key and there was a 9/16-18 male thread on the end of the pump driveshaft for a nut.

1975 and later, all GM pumps had a smooth driveshaft and a pulley that was an interference fit to it. You cannot use a pre-1975 pulley on a pump with a smooth driveshaft.

The interference fit pulley design required that you install it with a special tool. The tool threaded into a 3/8-16 female thread in the end of the driveshaft. You then reacted against the driveshaft in order to draw the pulley onto it. The special tool did not put any stress on the actual pump. Pressing directly on the driveshaft could break things inside the pump itself.

BTW, the pumps with the interference fit pulleys also require another special tool to remove the pulley.

Jim

any tips on getting the pulley on though? that concerns me more

Does the new pump shaft have a keyway? The press-on style shaft is larger and your old pulley won't fit. I used a harmonic balancer installer to do the last one I installed.
You probably got a burr inside the pulley that won't allow it to go back on the old one. It's a fairly precise fit, and it doesn't take much to bugger it up.

i do need another set of hands, or a vice,

Can you get a couple mounting bolts in place to hold it on the engine? Maybe easier to get some leverage with it on the engine.

thanks for all the advice guys. i'm not sure what year pump the original is. it is a pump with a keyed shaft, and the pulley came off very easily. i haven't ruined the new pump, but i can't get the pulley past the male thread for the nut to even start so i can tighten it down. BUT, there is a burr inside the pulley now :(

i made sure to get a pulley with a key way, so i guess that it right. but i can see a part number on my pulley 3941107 DE and it's a 2 rib pulley. not sure how i can look this up anywhere. *sigh*

so just an update (in case anyone is really interested).

1) i was able to get the bracket stud off by using a deep socket and used my knee as leverage.
2) since my pulley had a burr on the inside, i used my dremel with a cylindrical grind bit to smooth it out. still didn't fit, so i kept grinding away really slowly until i could just get a little bit of the male bolt showing on the keyway and used the nut to push it further.

hooked up the new pump and she's running just dandy.