I going to replace the rear quarter lips on my 68. I guess all the patch panels would be the same no matter who you got them from, or is there someone that has better than others. Also any tips from someone who has done it would be helpful. I got pretty good with the mig doing repairs on window pinch wells ect so I feel that I can do this myself now.
Thanks for any advice
Jan

I used NPD's quarter repair panel full face on page 118 item H cut what you need and use it as a patch panel. The cost isn't much difference than buying multiple patch panels and you get all you need.

here

http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=cev09flx#

Instead of welding which I also do I used Valvoline Plio Grip Panel 60 glue a flanging tool and some self tapping screws. Weld at stress points only. Saves warping and a whole lot of hours welding and grinding and straightening.

here

http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/nr.php?id=7

Just one option.

Thanks. I like the idea about the complete panel. Less seams. Hao has the glue held up. How long since you did this?
Thanks
Jan

The panel bonds that are out there are great if you have the gun to use them properly. Like vic said just weld a couple spots and alot less work!

Just keep in mind that if you order a quarter skin instead of the patch panels there may be a truck freight charge that's usually over 100.00... Just make sure to talk to your supplier about this..

Panel Bond has come a long way, but I would still weld. You just really have to take your time and be patient. Also, there are many different schools of thought... I would lean to using a full quarter. Unless, you are a really good body man and can hide your seams. I have done it both ways and if I think it needs to be done. I just go with a full quarter. Yes, it is more work, but less seams and cleaner in my opinion. It is all in what you want, or what you are comfortable doing.

Ive seen too many cars repaired with glue and once the paint is done and the car is exposed the elements the repair area becomes visible in the form of ghost lines.

This happens simply because you need to overlap the metal in order to bond them together. The joint will expand and contract at different rates because of the increased metal thickness due to the overlapping joint. In addition, the bonding material has a different expansion rate then the metal does.

Glue should only be used at factory joints like pinch welds found around the wheel wells and door jam, not a man made joint down in the middle of a quarter panel.

There are techniques used to lessen the effect of ghosting but Ive never seen it done and not show up when used in the manner of patching.