Hey guys, I just bought a 67 hardtop and want to start a build as a driver/cruiser.

Plans included a disc conversion for the front at least, LS power, overdrive tranny, 17" rims etc... Just simple tastful mods to enjoy the car and make it a little more up to date.

The car is a 283, power glide, interior was redone resently before I bought it, body might be interesting as I'm not sure whats hiding under the 15 year old paint.

My experience is with 3 gen Camaros and C5 vettes so will need a little help.

I want to redo a frame with drop spindles disc brakes etc ... and then drop my body on and wonder what frame to start with. I've read the el camino has a boxed frame and wonder if I should start with that.

Any ideas pros or cons? Looking for feedback please.

Your stock frame will be fine for all your mod's... Many places sell direct bolt on kits for everything your planning...

box your original frame... el camino frames are longer in the rear.

box your original frame... el camino frames are longer in the rear.

Yes, but for '64-'67, changing the length is probably easier and cheaper than "boxing"... Less welding if you have to pay someone, and no material to buy/cut...

I want to redo a frame with drop spindles disc brakes etc ... and then drop my body on and wonder what frame to start with.
So the poster wants to get the frame done, before making the car undrivable... I can totally relate.

If you can find a nice El Camino frame, it would work great, but really, the stock hardtop frame will function fine...

A convertible frame would be a direct swap, but harder to find (and usually more expensive).

I have considered the exact same thing for my '66. I don't want the body off the frame for eons ( I am being honest), so I hope to find a nice El Camino frame to build up (I could do another Hardtop frame, but IF I find an ElCo, I'll do that)...

boxing is really a few hour deal, and much easier than measuring, then hacking off a section and trying to keep everything square. i would get a coupe frame and have it boxed.

Tim

Yes, but for '64-'67, changing the length is probably easier and cheaper than "boxing"... Less welding if you have to pay someone, and no material to buy/cut...


So the poster wants to get the frame done, before making the car undrivable... I can totally relate.

If you can find a nice El Camino frame, it would work great, but really, the stock hardtop frame will function fine...

A convertible frame would be a direct swap, but harder to find (and usually more expensive).

I have considered the exact same thing for my '66. I don't want the body off the frame for eons ( I am being honest), so I hope to find a nice El Camino frame to build up (I could do another Hardtop frame, but IF I find an ElCo, I'll do that)...

Well this sounds like another option for me too. I'd really much rather build up a second frame and minimize the down time than blow the car apart and run the risk of it being forever until I get the car back together. ...I'm sort of a procrastinator.

And if the ElCo frame has a strength advantage I like that too. The 64-67's are the same for both hardtops and droptops...'cept for the length, right?

Also in Canada the road salt can really play havoc on a 43 year old car.

I like the idea of getting everything ready and then dropping the body on the frame. I am looking at DSE upper and lower control arms with there coil over kits front and rear.

The Kore3 adapters for C5 brakes are a fantastic option for me as take off brakes from vettes are easy to find. Do they work with teh Kore bracket kit though?

Thanks for the ideas and opinions i want to do this once, and am not familiar with the A body, doing my research here and learning plenty.

or you can start with an El Camino :-)

or you can start with an El Camino :-)

Well then that'd be a TON of welding to make it into a hardtop. (coupe)



:p

I too came out of the C5 world after playing with a 4th gen and a C4. Currently I am collecting parts for a 70 Chevelle build.

My current plan is AFX splindles up front (which I have). SC&C upper arms, and SC&C or Speedtech lowers. The AFX spindles allow you to to run C5 bearing packs and all OEM C5/6 brake options and most of the aftermarket options.

In the rear I want Currietecs with the Johnny Joints on atleast one end.

I have read alot on the coil overs, and to get everything packaged well a remote cannister is required. They are still a pain to be adjusted on the car, some say it requires seperating a balljoint. I will most likely use shims if needed or maybe weight jackers.

Stealth71 and AndrewB (Project GatTagO) both had great topics on here as well as ls1tech on their LSx pro-touring builds. I would start by reading their topics.

On the frame my feeling is the factory frame will handle the power but if you can box it relatively easily it would add steering repsonse. However, the steering response theory is based off my time in the other projects where any strut tower brace, sub frame connectors etc paid off with a more responsive chassis. I have not put this to test on the A body. I do agree with Widow maker's response that modifying the length of the frame seems to be a bigger pain than boxing a stock frame. Besides I have read where the vert/El Camino framed guys go back and reweld areas.

You need a 64-67 chevelle/beaumont frame...But
64-66 have diffrent rear coil spring pockets then 67.
The convertible frames are boxed from factory but good luck finding one.

I plan on doing the same thing this summer as i've found a 64 frame in good shape. I will get the proper 67 coil pockets from a wreking yard.
Then box it and add another rear crossmember.
I fixed mine a couple years ago but it is in need of replacement sooner then later.
I see them now and then on Craigslist/KIJIJI running from $300 to $1000

Good Luck Paul

I saw ONE on Craigslist a few months ago. 64 hardtop...$100 and wasn't in the right "frame" of mind at the time to jump on it. :sad:

There are aftermarket chassis options too. I bought a bare Schwartz chassis and it's super beefy. Too bad I won't be using it- I'm selling the car I bought it for. If you're interested, let me know.

I e-mailed Schwartz about there 67 frame...cant use stock stile front end parts due to them correcting the geomitry?
It looks really nice but at $14000 for a roller i'll beef up a stock frame thanks.
Best bet is just finding one that's not rotten.

Paul

Love the wagon, sent you a PM on the chassis.

Thanks Don.

The best factory frame is boxed convertible frame. I found my factory boxed frame under a rusted out 66 Buick GS400 hardtop. I dont know it was an option or not?

I thought someone offered a mildly modified/fabricated frame for around $3,000? Not as cheap as a junkyard find but an option.

I think SRG was offering a new frame that uses all factory suspension.

I found a few original chassis up here in Canada that were all around the $ 1200 mark, but nothing that didn't need some work.

I bought a Schwartz chassis from Scotch, now just have to get the rest of the chassis parts ordered over the next few months and start assembling.

Anyone else on here go this root. I would like to hear from them to see how they like it pros and cons.

Thanks guys for the input.