powdercoating questions [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: powdercoating questions


wolfehunter
Mar 25th, 04, 9:32 AM
I've got my whole front suspension and brakes tore apart and was thinking of having it all powdercoated. The bushings and ball joints are already pressed out of the A-arms and I have new Moog components(tie rods, ball joints, center link, bushings, etc..) to install.

The parts I'm thinking about powdercoating are the dust shield, caliper brackets, spindles and A-arms. Anyone ever get their calipers or rotors coated?

How thick is the powder coating and will it make things difficult to put back together such as getting the calipers back between the brackets?

What about the bushings in the A-arms? Or do I ask the powdercoating shop not to coat the arms where the bushings slide in?

Will sandblasting hurt any of these parts?

Sorry for all the questions. :confused:

Dan Orgill
Mar 25th, 04, 12:03 PM
Powdercoating is great, but only on certain things. I would definitely do the a-arms and you could do the caliper backing plates as well.

Calipers and rotors are out. The calipers will not be able to be reassembled. Also, the heat from the calipers when in use will eventually ruin the finish. The rotors would be completly covered, and I don't know if turning them would take it off. Even if it did, it would take forever, as the stuff is tough.

As far as the a-arms, have them sandblasted, and the backing plates as well. The parts will have to be completely powdercoated, as they cannot " spot-coat " them. Although it will make the bushing fit tight, a professional shop will be able to get them in with a proper press.

The spidles can be blasted, but NOT on the area where the rotors mount. Just use a lot of duct tape to mask the area off and tell the blaster to stay away from that area.

Anyhting else just ask.

john reid
Mar 25th, 04, 1:25 PM
There is a 3m scotch brite cylinder that when mounted to a die grinder will remove the paint from your ball joint holes in the a arms. I don't have the # of the cylinder but it is similar to 048011-17186 scotch brite unitized wheel. the cylinder is 1" od when new & does an excellent job if you don't try to overpower it. an adaptor will be needed to attach to die grinder as the cylinder has just a small hole down the center. Some have used a 1/4" bolt also, but the adaptor works best.

69chevelle69
Mar 25th, 04, 3:27 PM
I had my control arms blasted and powdercoated and the guys i went through knew not to powdercoat the bushing hole the thickness of the powdercoat you cant get the bushings out but most shops if you mention not to coat where the bushings go can set something up they know what they are doing and they looked great!!!

TronDD
Mar 25th, 04, 3:39 PM
The place I had my arm coated masked off what they didn't want the coating off. They had rubber (or some material) plugs they fit into the bushing and ball joint holes. And a special tape they could use to cover threaded areas.

Tim.

BillsCamino
Mar 25th, 04, 4:15 PM
Recently, I've had three different sets of A-arms powdercoated...completely.
No problems what so ever pushing in new bushings.
Another suggestion on coating your calipers...there is paint available just for that purpose. Like what is used on the Corvette Z06s.
http://personal.inet.fi/surf/porschenet/text/styling/brake/

71chevelleconvtble
Mar 25th, 04, 4:24 PM
I had my rotors powdercoated and then they were turned. I don't think you can do the calipers because the oven would ruin them. They use rubber corks for all holes that you don't want powder coated. The powder coat shop should know where he can and can't coat. Mine did. I had all my brackets, control arms, sway bars, inner fenders, etc. coated. Just about everything that wouldn't have a problem with the oven.