Chipped peg leg gears... What do you think would cause it?

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The Ring gear teeth look pretty good and I have no idea when these were installed. If I had to guess, probably upwards of 20+ years ago. I am converting the rear drum to 13" discs so I had to open it up for the c-clips. Suprise to me there is 2.73 gears in this thing. No wonder it was always such a dog off the line. I always blamed the rect port heads. :p

At this point, I am unsure of what gearing to go with although I do want a true-trac for sure.

Moar pics...
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Looks like that is either from sitting for a long time or doing 1 too many peg leg burnouts. Those are probably the original gears to the rear.

Rear is CI stamped, chevelle stuff tells me it should be a 3.73 posi. I can get a pic of the stamping on the axle tube. I was told the posi had been removed, but not the gearing changed as well.

Rust can do that to gears, it starts as small pits and works to big craters. Tom

I'd say it's from one wheel burnouts. This is very hard on differential parts.

Dan,

Recommendations for rear end gears depend on a lot of things, like how you plan to use the car, engine specs, type of transmission and tire size/height. My current favorite is 3.31 but I don't know of any aftermarket companies making that ratio. Richmond has a 3.42 I think.

Thanks for the replys. It sure would be convenient to get the gears changed out now while I am changing the brakes but I have no idea on what direction I want to go with the car in terms of drivetrain. Either LS transplant or big cube, low rpm...

I would be lying if I said one-wheel burnouts didn't happen... :( In what instance would a 2:73 gear be useful?

2.73 is good if your building a long haul cruiser better on gas but if you want to get out of the hole quick I would go to 3.73's.I have a 396 pushing close to 450 hp with a 700R4 tranny but I also have 2.73's even without driving it I know it will be a dog out of the hole.3.73's with a 700R4 I will have the best of both worlds have gas mileage and when I want it power from the start.

powertrax will solve the issue and give you "posi-like" rear....but if you are upgrading ring and pinion..then lost point.

carl

Yeah man get a powertrax locker, BIGGEARHEAD on here sales them. I just installed one in my 8.5 rear and kept the 2.73s back there and when I tell you good fun when both tires lock up as soon as you hit the gas. You cant beat it for the price and ease of installation. It took my about 1 hr 15-25 mins to install it and most of that time was spent talking to friends that was constantly coming over asking why Im under my car in 30* weather doing something that DOESNT need to be did.

Hmm, interesting... Powertrax. I think I'll look into that.
Aside from the price, what is the difference between the
92-0788-3005 and 1910-LR?

Would the 1910-LR be sufficient for 500ish rwhp?

Could either unit be used if I decide to go to taller (numerically) gears?

Can I use my existing open carrier?

The Power Trax unit fits inside the existing standard differential case. You don't have to remove the differential case or ring gear to install it. Without looking up the part numbers I can't tell you what the difference is between them. I'm guessing that one is the Lock Right and one is the No-Slip. I think the Lock Right is the best one.

The Power Trax unit fits inside the existing standard differential case. You don't have to remove the differential case or ring gear to install it. Without looking up the part numbers I can't tell you what the difference is between them. I'm guessing that one is the Lock Right and one is the No-Slip. I think the Lock Right is the best one.

Right, the 1910-LR is the lock right. 92-0788-3005 is the no-slip.

Mind PMing me a price for the 1910-LR lockright? If i can use it with a different gearing as well, I might as well put this in now and worry about gear change later.
Thanks BGH. edit> I will PM the request..

Another thing I just noticed...
My axle vent is snapped off. :confused: Looks like part of the plastic piece is still inside the axle housing. Anyone got any tips on removal? It looks like they just press in...

Moisture is the culprit. I see this all the time in in my line of work.

The vent is a press in piece of plastic. The hole is about 7/16. I use a letter U drill bit when drilling for these vents. You can probably pick it out with something sharp. You can get a new vent at GM.

The Lock Right will work in a 2 or 3 series standard differential case. If there is wear on the inside of the case it might not work right. You need to remove the 4 differential gears and check the thrust washers for wear and check the inside of the case for wear. The Lock Right has a clearance tolerance that must be met. If the clearance is too wide due to a worn case then it won't work right.

The vent is a press in piece of plastic. The hole is about 7/16. I use a letter U drill bit when drilling for these vents. You can probably pick it out with something sharp. You can get a new vent at GM.

Copy. I'll give it a try in a few.


The Lock Right will work in a 2 or 3 series standard differential case. If there is wear on the inside of the case it might not work right. You need to remove the 4 differential gears and check the thrust washers for wear and check the inside of the case for wear. The Lock Right has a clearance tolerance that must be met. If the clearance is too wide due to a worn case then it won't work right.

SO, as long as I don't step up to a 4 series carrier, I'll be OK... barring any clearance issues.
Do you happen to know the suggested tolerances, or are they available from the Richmond website? Will a digital caliper be sufficient for measuring said tolerances?

Thanks for all the good info, gentlemen!

I was able to find the install guide online... too bad I can't measure the tolerances without the lockright!
http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/1000703MIB.pdf

I found a screw just over the ID of the vent piece. Screwed it into the plastic and used a pair of angled needle nose pliars to pry it out. Worked like a charm!

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Removed the spider gears and the washers for inspection.
Looks like I should replace both the pinion shaft and the washers. One of them has a noticeable curve to it and the shaft has a couple of slight grooves at one end. Tell me what you think!

Pics:
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The wear on the shaft and the hot spots on the thrust washers are from the one wheel burnouts. Yours is pretty mild. Do you see any wear on the inside of the case where the thrust washers run? The washers should be .030 thick. If they are not worn then they are all right to use again. Check the shaft with a file to see if it's hard or not. Some of them are hardened through and some are hard chrome plated. If yours is hard through then it's all right to use with the Lock Right. If not then you should get the hard shaft with the lock right.

I have a 396 pushing close to 450 hp with a 700R4 tranny but I also have 2.73's even without driving it I know it will be a dog out of the hole.3.73's with a 700R4 I will have the best of both worlds have gas mileage and when I want it power from the start.

why would it be a dog out of the hole? 2.73's and the 3.06 first gear of that 700R4 is the same as having a TH350/3.23 gears...and I know of plenty of 12 second and high 11 second cars running 3.23-3.31 gears with a TH350 or TH400

Do you see any wear on the inside of the case where the thrust washers run? The washers should be .030 thick. If they are not worn then they are all right to use again. Check the shaft with a file to see if it's hard or not. Some of them are hardened through and some are hard chrome plated. If yours is hard through then it's all right to use with the Lock Right. If not then you should get the hard shaft with the lock right.

There are no grooves or noticable wear other than a bit of discoloration - probably from the one-leg burnouts, as you mentioned regarding the burnt washers.
Both of the thrust washers measured at .30 so that looks good. One concern is that one of the washers has taken a slight cone shape. On the pic where I'm holding the washers, I am holding them together, flat. Notice how the outside edges are flush but the inside edges are pulled apart? Should this be a concern?

It might cause some problems with the Lock Right. The Lock Right must have the correct amout of clearance to disengage, and the cone shape of the washer might act as a spring to push the coupler of the locker in toward the driver. This might keep one side from disengaging properly. A flat thrust washer would be best. I don't know of any place that you can buy the washers, but I will check.

It might cause some problems with the Lock Right. The Lock Right must have the correct amout of clearance to disengage, and the cone shape of the washer might act as a spring to push the coupler of the locker in toward the driver. This might keep one side from disengaging properly. A flat thrust washer would be best. I don't know of any place that you can buy the washers, but I will check.


Freddie,if the carrier has some wear is there anyway to install a few washers to prevent the locker from acting up?

The thrust washers are hardened steel and they only come .030 thick. I don't know of any way to shim it. If the thrust washers came in different thicknesses then you could adjust it to get the correct clearance. You can't use soft steel for thrust washers.

All great info, thanks gentlemen. Now to find a vendor for the thrust washers...

I would probably have a few extra used ones. Have lots of used parts, housings, axles, posi's ect. Tom

I would probably have a few extra used ones. Have lots of used parts, housings, axles, posi's ect. Tom


Thanks for the offer, Tom. I am having the rear axle flanged turned down to fit rotors at a local driveline shop. They had a box of take-off thrust washers so I picked the truest 2. One has a little surface rust but I'll just scuff it off with emery cloth and call it good.
I also picked up a new hardened cross shaft.

hey genpac, been following along with your build thread....just wanted to chime in, before i swapped in the new 12 bolt I put a Loc-Right in my old 10 bolt and I loved it:).

hey genpac, been following along with your build thread....just wanted to chime in, before i swapped in the new 12 bolt I put a Loc-Right in my old 10 bolt and I loved it:).


Nice! I have a LR coming from BGH... might be here this week! :D Thanks for the chime.

Something metal went through the grinder-check fluid with magnet-should be "shiners" there and on bottom of your drain pan. Mine was same way!

Lockright arrived today. Thanks for the fast shipping, Freddie! Install this weekend is on the agenda.

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Lockright installed. Took me a while trying to figure out how to get a boat load of parts in such a small area.

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Have you gone for a test drive yet?

Have you gone for a test drive yet?

Nope. The rearend is still off the car, putting disc brakes on it. I still need to spin the wheels and make sure the locker disengages properly.

Testdrive probably won't be for months... lol, maybe longer. :(

"Took me a while trying to figure out how to get a boat load of parts in such a small area."...haha i know right! now that you've done it its pretty easy though right? when I swapped to the 12 bolt I took the loc-right back out of the rearend and sold it seperately as there isn't much of a market for 8.2 10 bolts.

"Took me a while trying to figure out how to get a boat load of parts in such a small area."...haha i know right! now that you've done it its pretty easy though right? when I swapped to the 12 bolt I took the loc-right back out of the rearend and sold it seperately as there isn't much of a market for 8.2 10 bolts.

I just had to remove the locker and reinstall it to get the axles out for my rear disc conversion. It was MUCH easier the second time around!