I need to polish the molding on the tailpan and around the taillight lens. What have the team chevelle members used to make it shine?
Thanks

ah... Elbow Grease :D

How does one extract grease from an elbow?:D Must hurt.

Meguiars Hot Rims chrome polish, comes in a paste tin. Its pink when you rub on and it cleans it turn black then buff, depend on how dull it is you might have to do it a couple times but I have a 72 SS Chevelle and the pillars on it shine like new and I also have a 65 SS Chevelle that really made alot of the moldings look like new! This stuff is great!

I use Wenol.

I am curious to see the replies to this post as well.
Most of the trim on my 66 i re-used but was unable to find anything to really get the shine back into them. I know it can be done because I took most of my parts to a local rechroming shop where they charged me an arm and a leg and got them looking very nice and satisfactory.
I was told since most of these trim pieces are not chromed metal it's hard to get a lasting shine back to them.

I am curious to see the replies to this post as well.
Most of the trim on my 66 i re-used but was unable to find anything to really get the shine back into them. I know it can be done because I took most of my parts to a local rechroming shop where they charged me an arm and a leg and got them looking very nice and satisfactory.
I was told since most of these trim pieces are not chromed metal it's hard to get a lasting shine back to them.

Most trim is not chrome, it's either stainless or anodized aluminum. The only trim on a '66 that is chrome are the bumpers, emblems, quarter window moldings, & the vent window frames. To renew stainless & aluminum trim, you'll need a dedicated buffing motor & the correct wheels & compounds. With some practice, your trim will look better than new & can be easily maintained with simple metal polish. I would practice on some junk trim before trying to buff the pieces you want to put on your car.

On a 66, the grille, H/L bezels, drip rails, tail light bezels, & rear panel moldings are all anodized aluminum. To polish anodized aluminum, you must completely remove the anodizing. Mix a tub of water with industrial drain cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide. Let the parts soak for about 25 minutes. You'll see when the anodizing is completely removed when the piece looks completely dull. If they pieces are straight with no deep scratches, you can move to buffing.

Your 66 has stainless windshield & rear window moldings. To shine stainless trim, if there are no dents you can simply sand it smooth. Depending on how nice your trim is, you can start with higher grits like 600. If you have deep scratches, you'll have to start with an aggressive grit like 180 or 220. I continue to about 1500 before I start buffing. If you have a DA, it works wonders on stainless. Just be sure to keep to rpm's low on the DA.

Once you get the hang of it, you'll be amazed at the results.

I've also heard that corn starch works, too. I have never tried it though.

Most trim is not chrome, it's either stainless or anodized aluminum. The only trim on a '66 that is chrome are the bumpers, emblems, quarter window moldings, & the vent window frames. To renew stainless & aluminum trim, you'll need a dedicated buffing motor & the correct wheels & compounds. With some practice, your trim will look better than new & can be easily maintained with simple metal polish. I would practice on some junk trim before trying to buff the pieces you want to put on your car.

On a 66, the grille, H/L bezels, drip rails, tail light bezels, & rear panel moldings are all anodized aluminum. To polish anodized aluminum, you must completely remove the anodizing. Mix a tub of water with industrial drain cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide. Let the parts soak for about 25 minutes. You'll see when the anodizing is completely removed when the piece looks completely dull. If they pieces are straight with no deep scratches, you can move to buffing.

Your 66 has stainless windshield & rear window moldings. To shine stainless trim, if there are no dents you can simply sand it smooth. Depending on how nice your trim is, you can start with higher grits like 600. If you have deep scratches, you'll have to start with an aggressive grit like 180 or 220. I continue to about 1500 before I start buffing. If you have a DA, it works wonders on stainless. Just be sure to keep to rpm's low on the DA.

Once you get the hang of it, you'll be amazed at the results.

Awesome explanation....and specific to my 66 to boot! Thank You Pete 67 :D

Awesome explanation....and specific to my 66 to boot! Thank You Pete 67 :D

Glad to help! Here is what my '67s grille work looked like after I got finished sanding & buffing it out. I had no previous experience, I just took my time & made sure it was sanded smooth before I began buffing. All the pieces were used originals with the exception of the NOS hood molding. I even stripped the anodizing of it & buffed it out. If I didn't it wouldn't have matched the brightness of the rest of the pieces.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/th_IMG_0048.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/?action=view&current=IMG_0048.jpg)

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/th_DSCN1705.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/?action=view&current=DSCN1705.jpg)

Glad to help! Here is what my '67s grille work looked like after I got finished sanding & buffing it out. I had no previous experience, I just took my time & made sure it was sanded smooth before I began buffing. All the pieces were used originals with the exception of the NOS hood molding. I even stripped the anodizing of it & buffed it out. If I didn't it wouldn't have matched the brightness of the rest of the pieces.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/th_IMG_0048.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/?action=view&current=IMG_0048.jpg)

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/th_DSCN1705.jpg (http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/petefay/?action=view&current=DSCN1705.jpg)


Yes, thanks so much Pete for your input!!!!! :thumbsup:

Your work and explanation are very helpfull appreciated!

The 67 looks great and I'm going to start on the rest of my 66 parts as well!

Thank you!

Most trim is not chrome, it's either stainless or anodized aluminum. The only trim on a '66 that is chrome are the bumpers, emblems, quarter window moldings, & the vent window frames. To renew stainless & aluminum trim, you'll need a dedicated buffing motor & the correct wheels & compounds. With some practice, your trim will look better than new & can be easily maintained with simple metal polish. I would practice on some junk trim before trying to buff the pieces you want to put on your car.

On a 66, the grille, H/L bezels, drip rails, tail light bezels, & rear panel moldings are all anodized aluminum. To polish anodized aluminum, you must completely remove the anodizing. Mix a tub of water with industrial drain cleaner that contains sodium hydroxide. Let the parts soak for about 25 minutes. You'll see when the anodizing is completely removed when the piece looks completely dull. If they pieces are straight with no deep scratches, you can move to buffing.

Your 66 has stainless windshield & rear window moldings. To shine stainless trim, if there are no dents you can simply sand it smooth. Depending on how nice your trim is, you can start with higher grits like 600. If you have deep scratches, you'll have to start with an aggressive grit like 180 or 220. I continue to about 1500 before I start buffing. If you have a DA, it works wonders on stainless. Just be sure to keep to rpm's low on the DA.

Once you get the hang of it, you'll be amazed at the results.

GREAT TIMING FOR THIS POST!! It's where I'm at on my resto. :thumbsup:

M

Your 66 has stainless windshield & rear window moldings. To shine stainless trim, if there are no dents you can simply sand it smooth. Depending on how nice your trim is, you can start with higher grits like 600. If you have deep scratches, you'll have to start with an aggressive grit like 180 or 220. I continue to about 1500 before I start buffing. If you have a DA, it works wonders on stainless. Just be sure to keep to rpm's low on the DA.



be careful doing that. the trim was polished then flashed chromed. so when you polish them and you don't get all the chrome of them they will have a blue tint to them:beers:

Check your trim with a magnet to be sure its stainless on my 69 it was not. that being window trim you can only polish so deep. I used a 6 inch coth wheel on my bench grinder with compounds from www.princessauto.com .

I used the stainless polishing kit from Eastwood and my bench top grinder.
Work well for me.

Good Luck,
Don

I would definitely recommend wearing gloves and a face shield when polishing trim. I had to learn the hard way...

Thanks CHEVELLE NATION.