Anybody have this kind of setup? I called unisteer they said they weren't sure. Due to oil pan clearance.
Flaming river said they think it'll work.

I'm just looking for a positive yes or no

The thing about LS engine swaps is there are several ways to do them. It depends on your mount and oil pan combo. Do you live close to a vendor who is a dealer for Flaming River? The best thing you could do is to get a pre-approval so you can return it if it does not work. That way you could relay your experience along with your pan and mount combo.

For what reason do you want R&P steering? You can have better performance for less with a rebuilt linkage and a Lee steering box... also much easier to find good PUBLISHED bumpsteer numbers, and KNOWN FIXES.

For example, some of the R&P vendors have been in here touting "improved bumpsteer" without posting ANY information on how this was achieved, how much it was "improved", or what would happen if used with some other parts that are known for improving bumpsteer along with other front geometry issues (tall balljoints, AFX spindles, DSE spindles, etc...)

I've read up on a few articles and noticed alot of the aftermarket manufactures use them in the test cars.
IMO it looks cleaner.
I like the straight line tracking of the rack and pinion on new vehicles.
I've changed just about everything on my chevelle to aftermarket components.
I've done this because I don't like how the car handles bone stock. (kinda like a little red wagon)
I like how the car looks inside and out.
I guess to each his own.
I've never seen any info on the old setup outperforming a R/P setup
If that were the case alot of new cars would be converting to this old setup.
If the old stuff works better why would GM change it?
Thank you for your input all I was trying to find out is if anybody has a R/P setup with a LS style engine.

I know someone who installed a aftermarket rack and pinion setup on a 55 Chevy to make it "drive better" and what really happened was that he lost turning radius. Maybe you should look into a aftermarket chassis if you don't want to use any old technology. I promise you that there are some cars lurking around here with the mods that Derek mentioned that will lay the smack down to a new Z06.

What are your goals? That will help get a better idea what you want and we can help you get there. With that being said...

Much of the fit depends on how far front to back you have the LS engine located. I made my own mounts and I feel I would have enough room for R&P because my engine sits about an inch from the firewall. Now with that being said, I agree with the other comments here - R&P is not necessarily better. Hell, the Jeep Cherokee steering box upgrade makes a world of difference from stock. Putting modern technology (bushings, ball joints, springs, shocks, etc.) under these cars really make them perform pretty good on road course.

I'm planning on auto-crossing the Chevelle this spring just to see how it performs. I've done poly-graphite front and rear upgrades, drop springs, drop spindles, power disc brakes, power steering with jeep box and LS1 conversion. It's night and day to where it was, but it would not touch a Corvette in a road race - but it makes a great drive. My old daily driver was a '04 Corvette and I can tell you that if you want it to drive like a Corvette, either empty your pockets and put tons of $$$$$ into your setup or save your $$$ and just by a Corvette :D

I like the straight line tracking of the rack and pinion on new vehicles.That has more to do with the alignment than the steering components... if you want it to track straight, and have the wheel come back to center (along with improved feedback and road feel), add more positive caster. If your car doesn't track straight, you don't have enough caster.

I've changed just about everything on my chevelle to aftermarket components.
I've done this because I don't like how the car handles bone stock. (kinda like a little red wagon)What parts have you changed to? There's a lot of different options out there, and some won't work well together if not engineered properly. The steering linkage is really a very small part of what makes a car handle well... spindles, springs, shocks, and sway-bars are all a far more important piece of the puzzle. Steering changes the "feel" but not the mechanical grip.

I've never seen any info on the old setup outperforming a R/P setup.The performance from a good LEE 670 box will be equal to the performance of a good R&P setup for less money, and in the case of a problem, the parts to get you back on the road are mass-produced, and available at any parts store.

The only real performance advantage to an R&P is weight, and in the case of a retrofit, you need to add a cradle and a bunch of extra linkage to make it work well, so the weight difference isn't much.

If that were the case alot of new cars would be converting to this old setup.
If the old stuff works better why would GM change it?
R&P is cheaper to produce, easier to package, and lighter weight... if you're starting from scratch and building the chassis around it, a R&P makes perfect sense. If your chassis wasn't designed for it, and an option that works just as well is available for less, then why do it?

Thank you for your input all I was trying to find out is if anybody has a R/P setup with a LS style engine.
If you're absolutely set on a R&P setup, I'd recommend Unisteer, as theirs is very well engineered...

If you're not going to be road-racing, my bet is you'd be more than satisfied with with the feel of a used Jeep Grand Cherokee quick-ratio box. Great feel, feedback, and response for about a $50 upgrade. If that's not going to cut it, the Lee 670 is the top of the line box. (Tom Lee supplies all of the NASCAR teams with their steering boxes)

Thank you all
I've taken the car down to it's frame

I just bought cpp level 2 best deal for the money IMO

(after 6 months of reading all I could on chevelle suspensions)
super chevy suspension challenge had great info
they had chevelles and old chevy iron smashing vette times on road courses,saloms,skid pad

front upper/lower ca
Rear upper/lower ca
F/R sway bars
front coil overs single adj
rear single adj shocks
2inch lowering springs
4 wheel power disc brakes
hydro boost setup
stock height spindels
QP 9 inch with strange 35 spline axles ,strange 3rd member

after I install the parts. I'll be looking at a R/P setup,rims,tires
to get the frame rolling again

I replaced the old parts particially because the cars been setting since 78 in the Texas heat (29,000 miles on the ticker)


Buy a Vette I'll have to run that past my wife:D
I take that ZR1

I've always had a thing for 69 Chevelles
My father had a 69 396ss dark blue

You'd be far better off spending money on the spindles or rather than the R&P... R&P will give you a good "feel" from the wheel, but you'll still have backward suspension geometry and very little mechanical grip. Understeer is no fun. It's very frustrating on the autocross course when you can't get the car to rotate. It's also really hard on tires.

You'd be far better off spending money on the spindles or rather than the R&P... R&P will give you a good "feel" from the wheel, but you'll still have backward suspension geometry and very little mechanical grip. Understeer is no fun. It's very frustrating on the autocross course when you can't get the car to rotate. It's also really hard on tires.


X2 :thumbsup: Spend the money on a set of ATS spindles, a good set of control arms, 600 series steering box and new steering linkage and you will have the best of bot worlds. I have yet to here of anyone with a good R&P set-up that is as good or better than what Derek has already mentioned. Lots of claims and advertising hype, but no facts with the R&P set-ups. Look at vendors like DSE, SC&C and Speed Tech for prooven and tested fornt suspensions.

I would highly recommend you upgrade to a quick ratio box. You will get a much better feel and response from a quick ratio box. I am having a sale on brand new GM 670 quick ratio boxes right now . $559 Shipped.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=25302

New GM 670 steering box
Here is the perfect steering box to upgrade your old GM muscle car box to a modern tight feel for better road feel and
control, it is available in two ratios 12.7:1 or 14:1.

* 3/4-30 spline shaft
* Ceramic coating for heat rejection
* rack and pinion valving
* Includes new rag joint.
* 6 lbs lighter than stock
* Bolt in replacement for your worn out 800 series steering box


http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/lhkustoms/100_2085.jpg

I would highly recommend you upgrade to a quick ratio box. You will get a much better feel and response from a quick ratio box. I am having a sale on brand new GM 670 quick ratio boxes right now . $559 Shipped.
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=25302

New GM 670 steering box
Here is the perfect steering box to upgrade your old GM muscle car box to a modern tight feel for better road feel and
control, it is available in two ratios 12.7:1 or 14:1.

* 3/4-30 spline shaft
* Ceramic coating for heat rejection
* rack and pinion valving
* Includes new rag joint.
* 6 lbs lighter than stock
* Bolt in replacement for your worn out 800 series steering box


http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/lhkustoms/100_2085.jpg
NO THANKS
http://www.unisteer.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/8010700-01-thm.jpg (http://www.unisteer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=UNISTEER&Product_Code=8010700-01&Category_Code=CHEVROLET+CHVL) 1968-72 Chevelle Rack Only Kit (http://www.unisteer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=UNISTEER&Product_Code=8010700-01&Category_Code=CHEVROLET+CHVL)
Code: 8010700-01
Price: $1,129.00
Quantity in Basket:
from unisteer
If I bought your box i would spend another 350-450 on the rest of the parts to get me at this point(centerlink,pitman arm and so on)
I'm replacing all my old parts
I'd rather pay 250 more to get up dated equipment
But I'm sure you sell a nice part

I'd rather pay 250 more to get up dated equipment
The 670 box IS updated equipment. It's proven itself quite well in NASCAR (They ALL run 670 boxes built by Tom Lee)

For a LOT less, you can get fairly close to the same results from a quick-ratio Jeep Grand Cherokee 800 box, and have enough money left over to get some GOOD spindles, which will actually improve the handling of the car... if you're into that sort of thing. ;)

Camber curve is WAY more important than a slight improvement in steering feedback if you really want it to handle well.

I've read about people putting spindles on.
Then they take them back off due to not liking them.

The front suspension will only travel a couple of inchs with coil overs before it bottoms out. (I think)
How much of a caster/camber change will take place?
The cpp front uca changes the camber angle.
I wouldn't think thats enough to unload a good tire (but I'm no engineer:confused:)

Is there a question in there somewhere?

My last post was from the response above it.
Maybe I should of quoted it.
I believe "how" constitutes a start of a sentence.
But then again I'm no english Teacher.:D

We have four ratios of boxes available, they are all NEW and as has been suggested for a performance oriented application I would go with it before a rack kit. I can tell you that our rack kit will work with a LS type engine. All the kits are redesigned with our new billet rack we build in house. If you have questions on our parts go to our forum section on the TC website and I check it all the time, Im pretty tuned into Chevelles and the FR product line.

Thank you
I've looked into flaming river and I like them

I've read about people putting spindles on.
Then they take them back off due to not liking them.

You must have read that somewhere else then. The guys around here on this forum never take them off after installation.

You must have read that somewhere else then. The guys around here on this forum never take them off after installation.
I searched with TC tool bar. There is some that hate them after installing them.

I searched with TC tool bar. There is some that hate them after installing them.

Just what specific spindles are you referring to? There are MANY kinds/makes of spindles available for the Abodys... How about you be specific instead of making sweeping generalizations that are unfounded.

If you don't have any info to post about a R&P setup, why post anything at all.
I do not care about spindles.

Please stop posting, when I ask about anything you start in with spindles

front upper/lower ca
Rear upper/lower ca
F/R sway bars
front coil overs single adj
rear single adj shocks
2inch lowering springs
4 wheel power disc brakes
hydro boost setup
stock height spindels
QP 9 inch with strange 35 spline axles ,strange 3rd member


First mention of spindles, YOU.

You'd be far better off spending money on the spindles or rather than the R&P...

Derek tries to 'steer' you in a more proper direction...



X2 :thumbsup: Spend the money on a set of ATS spindles, a good set of control arms, 600 series steering box and new steering linkage and you will have the best of bot worlds. I have yet to here of anyone with a good R&P set-up that is as good or better than what Derek has already mentioned. Lots of claims and advertising hype, but no facts with the R&P set-ups. Look at vendors like DSE, SC&C and Speed Tech for prooven and tested fornt suspensions.

Another person, trying to broaden your horizons...


For a LOT less, you can get fairly close to the same results from a quick-ratio Jeep Grand Cherokee 800 box, and have enough money left over to get some GOOD spindles, which will actually improve the handling of the car... if you're into that sort of thing. ;)

Camber curve is WAY more important than a slight improvement in steering feedback if you really want it to handle well.

AGAIN, Derek tries to re-attack his message. You still deflect and discount...

I've read about people putting spindles on.
Then they take them back off due to not liking them.

If you don't have any info to post about a R&P setup, why post anything at all.
I do not care about spindles.
Please stop posting, when I ask about anything you start in with spindles

Tell me again how I mentioned ANYTHING about spindles, except to ask you to specify your general, baseless spindle comment above? Heresay and fluff, yet you have the gall to ask how the caster and camber changes specifically, when you yourself instantly discount multiple member's advice?

I am done arguing with an idiot on the internet. It only makes me look stupid. I apologize to everyone other than the OP for my late aknowledgement that...
http://www.afunnystuff.com/forumpics/arguing.jpg

I can't believe you would think your picture of a handicaped person is funny.
I really hope the mods. pull the thread from the board.
I've recieved all the useful info I need.

genpac you are a slimeball.

I can't believe you would think your picture of a handicaped person is funny.
I really hope the mods. pull the thread from the board.
I've recieved all the useful info I need.

genpac you are a slimeball.

Welcome to the forum. I see a lot of help coming your way in the future. What's your next question that you don't want to hear the answer to?:sad:

How much of a caster/camber change will take place?More than you might think...

The cpp front uca changes the camber angle. No it doesn't. It changes the caster, not the camber.

I wouldn't think thats enough to unload a good tire (but I'm no engineer:confused:)It doesn't unload it, it just moves all of the loads to the outside edge of the tire.

See for yourself... Tall Spindles / Tall Balljoints explained (http://chevelleforum.org/showthread.php?p=5695#post5695)