I am going to paint a tailgate for a buddy in a day or two. I found a good used one at the salvage yard that is red and I need to paint it white to match his Chevy pickup. I need to seal over the red so I don't have to put 6 or 8 coats of paint on it. The only thing I have right now is some Advantage 2k in buff that says on the label you can mix it 4-1-1 for use as a sealer. Does anyone know how good the stuff will lay and if it will give good adhesion if based on after about a 30 minute flash off. I haven't had much luck finding any tech info on the stuff since it's repackaged for the paint store I get it from, not even sure who makes the stuff for them, but It's decent primer. I actually like it better than the Limco high build I started out with. I also have some LP 10 expoxy that is an od green color, might be a better choice but still would be harder to cover than the buff 2k. Any help is appreciated. This stuff is more of a hobby than a job for me but I want to do the best work I can and sure don't want the paint peeling in a few months.

I found this website that may help you out. If not you may be able to get help from one of the distributors you purchased the product from or one listed online.

http://autobodybrands.com/advantage-refinish-products/advantage.html

Budruski, thanks a ton for that link. I had searched everywhere I could think of on the net and couldn't find the primer manufacturer. The guy I get my paint from said it was a primer put into the Advantage can for them, but made by someone else. Evidently it is a company about like Transtar who makes primers and clearcoats mainly. There wasn't any info on the particular primer I have but I'll give them a call on monday and see if they can get me a tech sheet. Thanks again.

Budruski, thanks a ton for that link. I had searched everywhere I could think of on the net and couldn't find the primer manufacturer. The guy I get my paint from said it was a primer put into the Advantage can for them, but made by someone else. Evidently it is a company about like Transtar who makes primers and clearcoats mainly. There wasn't any info on the particular primer I have but I'll give them a call on monday and see if they can get me a tech sheet. Thanks again.

The tech sheet is right on that site, I just pulled it up. If it's like a Transtar DTM lifting at featheredged area is possible . A sealer is recommended over those areas or maintain full coverage with the DTM. Just read the sheet and follow procedure.

Raven, it's not the dtm that I have, it's the buff 2k. The old can of grey that I have says it can be used as a sealer if mixed 4-1-1 with reducer. If I have any larger break thrus, I usually just spray a little ratttle can self etch on those spots before applying the 2k, saves having to dirty up another paint gun with the epoxy. I thought it was kinda odd that one of the ingredients on the can of buff primer is phosphoric acid, that's not in the older can of grey . That would seem to me it's kind of an etching primer. There aren't any tech sheets for either of the cans of 2k I have on that site, wonder if it's discontinued.

Sounds like a budget job. Just shoot over the primer and end it. Sealer prevents dieback, promotes adhesion, provides color hold out and increases paint coverage if tinted or using a valueshade system. The featheredges I'm referring to are primer to origional substrate. Sometimes lifting can occur here or a slight ring is evident. Sealer prevents this. If the gate is fully covered with the 2k just shoot it. Allow proper flash times.

The tailgate doesn't have anything on it except the original red base clear. Only need to fix a few small dents on the outside and sand and featheredge a little on the inside. I wanted to just work the dents, sand to 400-600 wet, seal and paint. Trying not to have to sand the whole thing more than once. I just need to cover the red so the guy doesn't have to buy so much white to cover. Figured if I used the buff primer for sealer it would cover in two coats of base. Guys ask me to do this stuff because they don't want to pay a shop 600 bucks to do it. I do good work, I just don't do fast work so it's hard to get payed or all of my time. Taking a class at the local college next month to hopefully learn a few short cuts to speed things up without sacrificing quality. Thanks for ya'lls help.

Budruski, thanks a ton for that link. I had searched everywhere I could think of on the net and couldn't find the primer manufacturer. The guy I get my paint from said it was a primer put into the Advantage can for them, but made by someone else. Evidently it is a company about like Transtar who makes primers and clearcoats mainly. There wasn't any info on the particular primer I have but I'll give them a call on monday and see if they can get me a tech sheet. Thanks again.

Not a problem, I think you will be ok using that primer as a sealer. A lot of new primers today are made to be primer sealers and work well. The 4-1-1 ratio would add reducer and make the primer lay out flat. I would stay away from a a traditional primer gun with a 1.7 nozzle and use a 1.4.

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