Hello,

For 1970 Chevelles with disc brakes.....

The shop manual indicates you must hold the metering valve open while bleeding the front brakes. Movement should be 1/16 inch to operate the valve. I cannot get any movement from the valve and do not know if it is stuck open or closed.

I removed it from the car, removed the rubber boot cover and see a small stud protruding out about 1/16 inch or so. It does not move in or out when I press on it.

How far is the stud supposed to be protruding?

Thank you very much, Joe

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UPDATE: thanks to RichR, he disassembled a second valve I purchased (thanks Keith K in Pittsburgh for the valve) cleaned it inside and out, and it works great. Now the stud protrudes 1/16 inch and presses in only about 1/32 inch. The stud rides on a spring. Again, movement is very slight. You can hardly feel this movement when the valve is installed in the car and you have to bend your finger between the vacumn booster and the valve to get to the stud.

Thanks everyone for responding to this post! I appreciate it!

Have a great day, Joe

Joe. Without brakes applied the rod should be "in". When stepping on the brakes the rod will come out some 1/8 as soon as the rear linings are against the drum (metering function). With the rod sticking out the front calipers will be suplied brake fluid too.

If

Joe,

I'm in the process of doing the same thing. Was going nuts until I read about the valve. :rolleyes: Anyway, mine was sticking out a good 1/4 - 1/2 inch, I don't have the rubber boot. I used a couple of wood shims to push the rod in. NOW it sticks out about 1/8" now that I've pushed it in, and I can bleed the brakes. I've got new rotors, drums, lines, pads & shoes if that matters.

MY problem is now getting all the air out and fixing one sealing problem at a connection. PITA, hopefully worth it when I'm done.

Hi What did you use to hold the button in while bleeding

Sorry for the delay in responding. Actually got to drive the car again for the first time in a few weeks!!

Anyway, I used 3 wood shims normally used to level a door, etc. - available at Home Depot or similar. Got them set up so it was a tight fit, then drove the shims closer together which pushed in the pin.

UPDATE: thanks to RichR, he disassembled a second valve I purchased (thanks Keith K in Pittsburgh for the valve) cleaned it inside and out, and it works great. Now the stud protrudes 1/16 inch and presses in only about 1/32 inch. The stud rides on a spring. Again, movement is very slight. You can hardly feel this movement when the valve is installed in the car and you have to bend your finger between the vacumn booster and the valve to get to the stud.

Thanks everyone for responding to this post! I appreciate it!

Have a great day, Joe