This is not Chevelle related but, I just got an estimate on getting the front end of my 98 Silverado 4x4 worked on and this is what came back - Upper and lower idler arm worn (upper and lower?) I thought there was only 1 idler arm? Pitman arm is worn, front brakes need to be replaced (newpads and rotors machined) and rear brakes adjusted...$900!!? Are they for real?
Is this stuff difficult for the do-it-yourselfer

I believe I would bring it elsewhere and get a second opinion. Not unless you have been beating the krap out of the truck, or it's got thousands and thousands of miles on it, I would not think your pitman arm, and idler arm would be worn significantly, if at all.

No, I don't beat on the truck at all...light duty work and back and forth to work. It only has 62k miles on it as well. I knew it had something wrong because my front tires are all cupped and it doesn't handle too well going down the highway but nothing exsessive. Guess I'll take it for a second opinion.

I have a 97 GMC 4x4 with 110K on it and the only thing I have had to do is replace the front brake pads twice, the rear pads once (only had to replace becasue a rear axle seal leaked and soaked one of the pads), rear axel seal, and the transmission got replaced under warranty after it ate itself. I have had the front end aligned when I purchased both sets of tires, but it was always in spec. Mine has seen some mild off-road use, but mainly it is just daily trans.

I think that the quoted price is high, sounds like dealer pricing.

Sounds like a shop out to make LOTS of money off ya. I mean what you said is probably $150 $200 in parts @ the max. $700 labor is a bit excessive to do that smile.gif . I would feel bad charging someone $100 bucks to do what you said let alove 700.

Get a second opinion. My 96 Z-71 has 122k on it, all original front end parts including the shocks, tires have over 50k on them with no abnormal wear patterns with 30% tread left. If your tires are cupping it is usually a sign of bad shocks, letting the tires bounce on the road causes the cupping wear. The parts can be replaced by a "do it yourselfer" but if you get a manual it would be better than just diving in. I have a 96 GM manual and would be happy to copy and fax you the pages if you decide to do it. Get an alignment when your done.

My 98 3/4 HD 2x2 needed a pitman arm at 50K. The previous owner drove it that way after putting new tires on the truck and ate the tires. graemlins/clonk.gif

Amazing that you have that kind of wear. I live on an unmaintained dirt road and don't have problems. Maybe the Z-16's use tougher parts.

You have a saginaw bar with 1 idler and 1 pitman arm. I know, I have a 96 Z k1500 with 130,000.

The idler arm is the most common wear item and is a tough bugger to remove, but doable.

I doubt you even need to touch your rotors unless they are grooved. And pads are ~$20.

My rear axles seals leaked too. Just replaced 'em, gear oil cost more than the seals.

I'm replacing the passenger side CV shaft tommarrow. I have a popping sound and a bad boot. $69 + core from Advance.

Lower ball joints should be obvious if you support the front of the truck and can move the wheel in/out. Doubt you have bad ball joints though.

Hey Phil, any chance you could photocopy/scan the section in your manual covering the axle swap?
Fax at work is 937-255-2288, attention DG.

Is the 96 GM manual, 1st volume worth getting?

I have the 2nd volume of the 96 GM manual, and not much a backyard guy can get from it, mostly emissions. I wanted the 1st volume, drat ebay.

Get a honest estimate or do it yourself.

A good web site for tech info is www.offroad.com (http://www.offroad.com)

DG no problem I will bring the book into work and send you a copy. I like having the GM factory manual set. I would recommend getting the 1st volume. Did you save money buying yours on ebay? I think the set only cost me $128 with shipping. The shop manual is available alone for $75 anhd the electrical is $45. I bought mine from Helm last year when the extended warrantee ran out. The format is different from the older books but not to hard to deal with. With emmission problems the techs here can read codes for me and then I can figure out repairs.

edit-I think the 2 wheel drive trucks have rack and pinion steering.

Thanks folks for your opinions on this...I made an appointment with another shop for tomorrow and over the phone he quoted me $418 for the exact same work including alignment and labor... *if* it even needs half of the things the previous shop said. He told me he will go through and doublecheck everything and will actually show me what needs to be replaced and why. If things turn out very different, you can bet I'll be making a call to the Better Business Bureau and spreading the word about this shops questionable business practices. I can imagine how many people they have already ripped off since they took over this shop this summer. Damn shame because this shop used to be pretty respectable place to have your car repaired until they sold it a couple of months ago. I used to even have them work on the 'Velle when I didn't have the time to do it - now that's trust! smile.gif It really is getting harder and harder to find a good shop nowadays.

Phil,
Thanks. I think i paid $30 on ebay for the 2nd volume. Didn't read closely enough.

I haven't too many problems you'd need a manual for. But this is my 1st cv axle swap.

I know Helms sells the 1st volume for $70. I will probably pony up as I have to keep this truck a couple more years at least.