My '67 has been converted to the later single piston front disc brakes. They are non-power and this set up just has the metering valve mounted on the frame, no proportioning valve. I want to go to power assist and have the booster, master cylinder and brass combination valve for the change over.
I'm thinking I need to replace the metering valve with the combo. valve and mount the combo. valve in its place on the frame. Or do I use both and leave the metering valve in place and mount the combo valve on the master cylinder?
Want to be sure of everything before I start, thanks for any advice.

Guy,
In short you can do either. I chose to eliminate the distribution block and mount the prop valve next to the MC. This required new front brake lines and a jumper line to connect the rear line to the valve.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=2499391&uid=1286593&members=1

I have heard of guys mounting the valve in this same location, connecting the single front and the rear lines to the prop valve, and plugging one of the front outlets in the prop valve. Dunno how well it works, but it has been suggested here.
I like my setup as it eliminated some connections, and I wanted to replace some lines anyway.
Lines can be purchased from Finelines. Rightstuff, etc.
John

Thanks for the info John.
Do you know if there is a specific bracket available to mount the combination valve to the master cylinder? This thing is larger than a regular proportioning valve.
thanks,
Dan

This thing is larger than a regular proportioning valve ?
My bracket came with the valve. I think True Connections has the cheapest price I've seen. What are you using?
John

The brass valve came in one of the several boxes of parts I got with the car. It's appears to be the one shown in most of the catalogs, with 5 brake line openings (3 coming out the top, one on the bottom and a larger one out the end),and two mounting holes. No bracket with it though. Didn't appear to have been used, still had the tag attached to the brake warning light stud.

I replaced my dist block completely with the prop valve, mounted it to the frame right about where your feet sit for the driver. I believe that the prop valve can be a direct replacement for the dist block if you are swaping from drum to disc. I also believe that the factory disc setup had no dist block just a prop valve.

Thanks, I checked with Daniel at True Connections about this and he said the combination valve could replace the junction block on the frame, but would have to bolt it directly to a frame hole or fabricate a mounting bracket.
Will have to get under there to see what kind of space/hole is available.
will be running headers also so the location will be a big factor.