I am working on getting all of the wiring done on my 67 chevelle. I am in the process of doing the following:

converting wiring from column to console
converting the gauges
installing a stock tach
installing new stereo and speaker

I have out the seats for re-foaming and I already took out the steering column.

SO my question is should I go through the trouble of dropping down the dash? Will this help me or just make more work and maybe giving way to more problems?

I do have one problem already though, the speaker I purchased doesnt fit past the metal bolting location and the lip of the dash, I really did try every angle and it wont go in without breaking the speaker. I have a picture before I took out the old speaker to show the problem areas.

Thank you for any intput.



http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P1250009a.jpghttp://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P1310032.jpg

I have pulled dashes on a 66 so often, I could do it blind folded. If it was me I would pull the dash, basically drop the steering column and undo dash, its easier with two people doing it the first time, just to hold on the other side of the dash. I can swap out a dash in about 15 minutes. hope that helps

It does help, because I have read many people saying it was a bitch. But it doesnt look that difficult, although looks can be deceiving.

I have pulled dashes on a 66 so often, I could do it blind folded. If it was me I would pull the dash, basically drop the steering column and undo dash, its easier with two people doing it the first time, just to hold on the other side of the dash. I can swap out a dash in about 15 minutes. hope that helps

X2

You'll play heck trying to get the gauges and the tach in without the dash out.
66/67 dashes are real easy to take out.
Drop the column-two nuts and a bolt. Take out the screws on the underside of the dash pad. Two bolts on each far side under the dash bottom lip. One screw on each side of the dash middle ways.
You can then pull all your harness loose from the connections on the back.
Got it out of there then.

I just took it out, and it was a breeze. The only slightly difficult part was the ebrake rod and the steering column bolts not giving each other enough room to clear each other, it just took a little force and it popped out. I think its going to be much easier from here.

Oh, and I think I found out the guy who sold it to me lied about the mileage. When I took apart the cluster, the speedo and odometer said it was "assembled" at 649568. and I bought the car a little over that. He told me the car never got driven and that was true mileage. I think he either lied or he was lied to as well.

Must be a typo or I can't read -- over half a million miles?

Jake 67, I also have a 67 that I'm fixing to change out all the gauges. Any tips you could give me would be appreciated. What a the light bulb numbers you need to change those out. Do you have the dash back in and how much trouble was that. Did you do it yourself or have someone help you put the dash back in? thanks WichitaFalls67chevelle

Jake 67, I also have a 67 that I'm fixing to change out all the gauges. Any tips you could give me would be appreciated. What a the light bulb numbers you need to change those out. Do you have the dash back in and how much trouble was that. Did you do it yourself or have someone help you put the dash back in? thanks WichitaFalls67chevelle

So far it hasent been that difficult at all. Although, my seats are already out so I can refoam them. I also took out the steering column so I can replace the gearbox to quick ratio. So, dropping the dash was as easy as 4 bolts on the outside, 2 nuts under the column, small screws under the dash pad, and a rod that bolts to the dash. It really wasent too bad at all. Just make sure your ready to catch it when it falls.

Having the dash out has made a world of difference when it came to the wiring. I also purchased all of the extensions and harnesses for the job (dash to console extension, console harness, neutral safety extension). I also had a courtesy light harness I hadent yet installed, which actually came in real handy because I used that to connect the courtesy light on the back of the console.

The neutral safety extension harness didnt just snap in, I had to cut out the connectors and crimp in my own. Use the good connectors with shrink wrap, or if you use the cheap ones pull off the cheap plastic part and put on a small piece of shrink wrap.

Then I needed to wire in the shift light when the lights are on. That just got sliced onto a dash light harness since that lights up with the headlights too.

Then the clock got wired from the original clock power supply which is constant.

I havent yet bolted back up the dash, because I havent wired in the tach yet because I just got the harness yesturday, but really it doesnt look too painfull.


Hopefully that was some help, I will post pictures if I can.


http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P2060056.jpg

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P2060053.jpg


http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P2060057.jpg



I am kinda tired writing this so if there are any mistakes I'm sorry.

PS. I just noticed you said gages and not console, sorry I havent gotten to those yet either, I will let you know what I know after I finish them hopefully this week.

Still hope this post helps someone.

Pulled the dash from my 66 back in 08 to look at the wiring.

Turned out to be pretty easy both in and out, and I did it by myself using a milk crate to help put it back in.

Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you went through pulling the dash and changing the wiring. Every bit of info is appreciated. Where or who did you get the wiring harnesses from? It is intimidating the first time you try something like this when youve never done it before. Thanks for the pictures also.

Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you went through pulling the dash and changing the wiring. Every bit of info is appreciated. Where or who did you get the wiring harnesses from? It is intimidating the first time you try something like this when youve never done it before. Thanks for the pictures also.


Sure thing, I've got enough help from here that when I can return the favor I will. I got most of my harnesses from ground up, but the neutral safety extention I got from M & H electrical (google it or http://www.wiringharness.com/ ) If you need anymore pictures of anything specific let me know, I still got my dash down and its easy at the moment.

Jake 67, I went back to what you originally said you were doing to your 67 and you mentioned converting the gauges. Have you done that yet, because that's what I'm doing is putting in the ss conversion gauges instead of having idiot lights? I was just wondering what is was like changing these gauges out. I'm fixing to get with a mechanic to help me with this just incase I run into any electrical problems. I'm going to take plenty of pictures so maybe it can help someone else. thanks wichitafalls67chevelle

Jake 67, I went back to what you originally said you were doing to your 67 and you mentioned converting the gauges. Have you done that yet, because that's what I'm doing is putting in the ss conversion gauges instead of having idiot lights? I was just wondering what is was like changing these gauges out. I'm fixing to get with a mechanic to help me with this just incase I run into any electrical problems. I'm going to take plenty of pictures so maybe it can help someone else. thanks wichitafalls67chevelle


Um, there is probly not much I can say that you dont already know. But I can recommend that if you havent ever dropped the dash in your car that you should for the gauges. And ESPECIALLY if you are doing the tach, and I acually think its close to impossable without dropping it out.

Once the dash got dropped, really only about 45min of methodical work because I've never done it, you have so much more access to everything. It is 100 times easier to do the conversion with in down.

Also, if your car is in similar shape to mine, I needed to replace the steering column foam between the column and the firewall. I also got lots of good cleaning done under the dash. It also gave me a chance to properly clean and paint my steering column.

With regaurds to the conversion, I had to make a run to home depot to get the correct fittings to keep the idiot light and have the oil pressure gauge. I havent hooked up the oil pressure line yet, but I am probably going to go with plastic tubing instead of the copper, at least for now. You can pick up a gauge line kit at an auto parts store. The plastic is just more forgiving, and it doesnt detract too much if you make the hole in the firewall somewhat close to the oil pressure fitting on the motor.

I dont know if yours is originally a column or console, but mine was converted to console, but still had the PRND12 on the dash, and with the dash out I was able to get out the cluster, clean it, and put in a plastic replacement without the PRND12 on it. That made a big difference to me.

Anyway, if you got anymore questions, let know.

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv89/Jake__67/P2110001.jpg

Jake 67, You have built up my confidence that this is doable. We just got 7 in. of snow night before last and hopefully when it warms up a few degrees I'm going to get started. I'm replacing everything gauges, speedometer & the works to get it looking like new since the only thing working is the turn signal lights. Before I bought this car I made sure to ask if everything worked and the answer was yes. It's beyond me how people can lie like that and live with themselves. Again thanks and as soon as I have something to report I will. Good luck

Jake 67, You have built up my confidence that this is doable. We just got 7 in. of snow night before last and hopefully when it warms up a few degrees I'm going to get started. I'm replacing everything gauges, speedometer & the works to get it looking like new since the only thing working is the turn signal lights. Before I bought this car I made sure to ask if everything worked and the answer was yes. It's beyond me how people can lie like that and live with themselves. Again thanks and as soon as I have something to report I will. Good luck


The guy who sold me the car said the same thing too. But as much as I want to blame him, it was my fault for not checking everything, and even then I probly would have bought it anyway.

I lucked out with my harness not being cut up, hopefully your isnt either.

I think you'll find it very satisfying when you do it yourself. Good luck and take lots of pictures. Be sure to post em when your done. Shoot me an email if you have any questions (or need any pictures) and I'll do my best to answer them.

And I cant wait till the winter is over so I can drive it with everything working properly now.(now working: reverse lights, 3 courtsey lights, normal beam headlights, speedo, tach, clock and clock light, shift light, starting only in park or neutral, lisense plate lights, oil pressure gauge, ammeter, tempurature gauge......o'boy I cant wait).

recently removed dash from my 67 chevelle to replace gauges and get it painted.appreciate all the advice .will soon try and replace the insulation and get the dash back in .keep -up the valuable help.

That dash (first post) has obviously been out at one time or another.
It appears the dash pad has been recovered---not positive

And just looking at the fuel gauge/ammeter on one side and the clock on the other----weird, but at the same time makes some sense. Chevrolet did not do that.

A lot of cars of the era always had ammeters over the lamps---good idea----turned better with a voltmeter.
Oil pressure is okay if the car is not rattling and the temp is probably fine if there is no steam coming out anywhere:D,