: Cutting rear control arm bolts....wow this is hard..PLEASE HELP
DoneInAMinute Feb 3rd, 05, 10:09 PM After not being unable to even BUDGE any of the 4 bolts for my stock '72 rear control arms (the ones connecting the arms to the rearend housing) I got the nuts off and have been pounding with a small and a large sledgehammer but the bolts won't back out, I'm sure they are rusted into the bushing after 30+ years.I have started to cut the bolts. I am having a hell of a time I have a sawzall and very good blades. The first bolt took me about 2 days to get through doing about 3 minute cutting bursts until I got too frustrated. The 2nd only took 30 seconds and the one I'm on now has taken over 30 minutes of straight cutting and zapped my strength! Does anybody have any better ideas for me? I would much prefer to get the bolts to just turn.
4FTTY4 Feb 3rd, 05, 10:18 PM If the head of the bolt is still intact try an impact wrench. Put it on the head of the bolt and pound the opposite side with the hammer.
Dcairns560 Feb 3rd, 05, 10:31 PM I had the same experience when I installed SSM bars on my 70. After trying all civilized methods, we broke out the torches and cut the bolts out. It helped that I was replacing the arms so I didnt have to worry about hurting them with the torch. Just keep some water handy to put any fires and be ready for lots of black smoke from the rubber bushings!
Good luck!
Finally Feb 4th, 05, 2:33 PM Torch sounds like a good idea or spray with PB Blaster penetrating oil, repeatedly over a couple days. May be able to pound them out then. The reason they're so hard to cut is the bushing sleeve around the bolt. It's hardened steel, doesn't cut worth a darn.
Texas70 Feb 5th, 05, 12:04 AM I soaked mine with Liquid Wrench for 24 hours (sprayed several times), then went at them with a 24" breaker bar and impact socket. They were tough but it did the trick. I had all removed in one evening with no cutting/torching... :D
DoneInAMinute Feb 5th, 05, 1:43 AM I have used a 24" piece of steel pipe over the ratchet handle to give me more leverage and when I do this it moves the entire car and the bolts still won't turn. One side I have to pull up and I actually compressed the rear springs a good bit I had to let it down slowly! I think ill have to keep at it with the saw.... Oh by the way I soaked them in WD-40 a few times over the last few days, will that have the same effect as liquid wrench?
WestyJ69chevelle Feb 5th, 05, 8:39 AM well.. buy a good 1/2 breaker bar...some PB blast..and a GOOD impact socket that'll fit it...they'll come out eventually..
turbo Feb 5th, 05, 9:32 AM not sure which way the bolts are facing or if there is enough room for this but a rivet gun/air hammer on the nut end will probably get them moving
Finally Feb 5th, 05, 10:46 AM I think PB Blaster is about the best penetrating oil you can get. Don't waste your time with WD-40. Liquid Wrench, still think PB Blaster is better.
turbo Feb 6th, 05, 9:31 AM Yep PB or Kroil seem to work the best
Hoovestol Feb 21st, 05, 1:20 PM Anyone tried "Gibbs" penetrating oil?
Just wondering...
chevydog66 Feb 21st, 05, 11:18 PM Yep, control arm bushings are a PITA. I like PB blaster. I have used Kroil but it's hard to find.
Herb Feb 22nd, 05, 11:35 AM Eastwoods has Kroil. It ain't cheap but it's good.
bri2203 Feb 23rd, 05, 1:21 PM I had a similar problem.... the bolt itself was rusted into the bushing sleave. I could not get it out with a hammer, so burned the bushings out,and I took a saw and cutand it into 3 pieces and spend $7,00 to buy one new bolt
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