I took the car out for its first spin since 04/2009. I have been trying like hell to bleed my brakes, but nothing is working. I have tried the 2 man version, a hand pump and finally a compressor bleeder (which I got a little fluid but nothing more). The front brakes work, a little spongy but they stop. On the proportioning valve where all my lines screw into (front disk and rear drums after market set up on the front), has two white plastic pieces. One has a black rubber cap and the second one is open and does not have the rubber cap. I was wondering if this is right or is my issue, attached it a pic. I have tightened all my new lines and all seems well and the MC was bled prior. The boot is on the left portion of the photo and the white cap without the cap is on the right.

Also, my tranny (turbo 350) was wanting to shift at about 5k in 2nd and 3rd. My buddy checked the fluid yesturday and said it "looked" good, but the car was off. When I got home I threw 2 qts in and checked the fluid and it said it was now full. Before I take it out again I wanted to double check with you guys.

By the way, 2 guys wanted to check the car out and I hadnt even put a mile on it...Cant wait till its all done :D

the black boot just covers the end of the valve, the grey piece is where the wires plug in for the BRAKE light in the dash(if you have a pressure difference, it lights the light)

DO you have front disk brakes? If so, remove the brake line from one caliper at a time and attach it to the vacuum handpump.If it flows plenty of fluid then the caliper and bleeder screw are blocked. I found this problem on my front drivers side caliper and rebuilt both front calipers. It made a huge difference in braking from the spongy feeling before.

Sounds like a vacuum problem.

Ken,
Transmission fluid is checked with the engine running and warmed up. It will always read higher after you shut it off.

If this is a new brake setup, make absolutely certain that the brake pushrod is letting the master cylinder return all the way to its resting position. If it is not, you will never get it to bleed properly.

Thanks for the replies, I tried removing the brake line on the pass rear but I had the same problem. I am going to take it to a local chevy dealership where a friend works and he is going to do my alingment, hopefully the brakes too for a super cheap price.

Do you all think that the shifting issue was the result of low fluid? The only thing I did to the tranny was i replaced the pressure regulator (i think thats the name, its the gold looking thing on the pass side above the crossmember). My old one was missing the o ring and the rubber hose, the new one was only 10 bucks so i just threw that in there. Maybe some knows of an adjustment you are supposed to make with it???

thanks

Have you replaced the short length of rubber brake line just ahead of the rear differential housing? If not, they can deteriorate and become clogged over time.

Some vac mouduls, are ajustable. There is a alen screw in the hole where the vac hose hooks up. Not all are ajustable. If I remember correct,turning it in makes shift latter, and out shift sooner.

Did you try depressing the valve under that black boot on the proportioning valve? That valve can become un-balanced and it will be next to impossible to get half of the system bled. Try depressing it with a C-clamp and then bleed the rear brakes.