Bummer Bummer,
Spring has finally sprung, and on the Chevelles maiden voyage, I noticed a slight pull to the right under braking.

Bled the brakes today, in hopes of correcting this condition, and since it hadn't been done in almost 6 years.

No luck.
My buddy says "its your brake hose",
I say, "but I bought the cool stainless lines".
He says "its cheaper than a caliper",
I try it, and that wasn't it either.

Maybe the remanufatured caliper I bought in 1998 has seized. And they were hard to find in 1998. :( (Stock 68 Disc)

Wonder if I'll be so lucky again ?

So how hard it is to rebuild a caliper, and should a rookie try it ?

While I have it apart, I was thinking new high performance pads to replace the stock replacements that appear just fine.

So I've looked into the "Praise Dyno" pads but which I've heard are great, but ouch, :confused:
250 bucks for brake pads ?

So what is the consensus, of the learned group, of Chevelle enthusiast on best performace brake pads for a stock application ?

I like the Ceramic Pads - Raybestos Quiet Stop Pads are around here at Pep Boys for about $60. They stop good and don't make much brake dust. There are a lot of High Performance better pads for more money like EBC, Akebono, SBS and Hawk. You can check at tirerack.com and see who makes them to fit as Chevelle.
P.S. - Rebuilding a caliper is quite easy. There is only one seal and a dust boot. You use compressed air to blow out the piston (put a rag between the piston and caliper, where the brake pads go) a rubber tipped blow gun works well. Then take out the dust boot and seal - lube up the new seal with brake fluid. Usually the piston is rusty and that's what causes the leak. You can usually get a replacement piston at the parts store, but rebuilt calipers were only $15 each so I usually go that way.

The calipers aren't hard to work on. Personally, I would just knock it apart and use some 220 sandpaper to clean off any corrosion and then clean everything up and put it back together. I've seen stainless sleeved 4-piston calipers for $50 at an on-line Corvette place before.

The 4-piston calipers have a bad reputation. The seal is attached to the piston and moves out as the piston moves, which moves it right into the dry bore where rust and other contamanents are. You also need to make sure the rotor has basically no runout or the pistons will be "pumped" in and out of their bores which will make it suck air into the caliper leading to a spungy pedal.

Do some searching for the 65-82 Corvette guys because they have the same calipers and the same problems. With a little searching you can find a fair but of good info.

Peter

Thanks Guys graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Well I called around, and the least expensive reman caliper is $128.88 with a $20 core charge, at AZ. :eek:

A rebuild kit is 20 bucks.

My brother suggested removing the caliper, and applying some penetrating oil to the piston bores,
to see if I can work them free.
The idea of removing the pistons from the bores is what I was most scared me most.
Thinking if hydralic pressure won't move them, how would I remove them from the bores. :confused:

Put a piece of rubber or wood on the caliper opening and use compressed air (slowly) at the caliper brake hose opening. That will do it. Make sure you do not use your fingers to stop the pistons... like I did my first time... IT HURTS!!!

Theo.