DRHRSH
Jan 11th, 10, 10:47 PM
This is a re post of my original May 08 post. Apparently the FTP site crashed and my pictures weren't showing up.
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My weekend was spent installing Spal power windows and door locks with a remote keyless entry/alarm system on my 70 Chevelle. I haven't seen a write up on this so I thought I would offer help to those wanting to do this. All of these products come from Italy, so the directions are not the best. Fortunately Spal of America is based in Iowa and tech support is excellent. Check out E Bay for the best prices.
The power locks use a push-pull actuator that connects to the original "push rod". They provide a nice set screw connector to attach the two together.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks006.jpg
I located the actuator down low. This picture is taken looking down the window slot. The actuator is black. It is just below the "Driver" I wrote on the regulator assembly.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks007.jpg
This shows the phillips head screws that fasten the actuator to the panel.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks004-1.jpg
I also purchased the AS 80 keyless entry/alarm system. The doors lock/unlock with a key fob. It comes with a red LED which I mounted on the dash. It flashes slowly to warn potential bad guys. The system has many options. So far I have connected door jamb switches, a hood pin switch, a trunk pin switch, and dome light. The processor is programmable, with options like automatic door lock 10 seconds after car is started, and unlock when car is turned off. I also programmed dome light on at unlock.
Now on to the power windows. I bought the more powerful motors for the front and the standard motors for the rear.
After trying many locations for the Spal power window motor I decided on this. Be sure to check with the window rolled all the way up and then down. The motors can be clocked to several locations, I chose down and forward for the fronts.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks002.jpg
I liked this location best because it allowed the cables leading to the transmission to be contained in a "recess" of the door panel. This will allow the door panel to sit flush and not bulge out. I cut a slot in the "step down" part of the panel, just below the handle to bring the cables to the outside. I used two of the brackets to support the motor, one pointing up and one to the rear.
The rear quarter windows were the easiest. Again I chose a recessed area to route the cables and keep them in tight. The motor is in the back away from any interferences. I used one bracket up and one down to support the motor.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks011.jpg
Routing the wiring harness is a bit tedious. I am doing a frame off, so I still have my headliner off. I routed the rears up through the A pillar, then across the roof diagonally to the passenger rear. The driver rear was routed inside the outer edge of the roof. If you were doing this to a completed car this would be more difficult. I chose a driver's door mounted pod for 6 switches. It comes with a lock out switch for the rear windows. I also bought the optional lock/unlock switch for the pod. If you don't want this there is a blank for that location on the pod. The driver door harness required a 1 1/4" hole in the jamb and the door. I used large grommets to protect the wires and allow opening and closing the door. The passenger door has a smaller harness and I used 3/4" holes.
I am very pleased with the final result. I wish the directions were better but as I said tech support is excellent. I hope this post helps others. This web site has been very helpful to me so I thought I would share this with others.
__________________
70 Pro Touring ZZ502, MassFlo Injection, 4L80E, 9 inch Truetrac 4:11's
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My weekend was spent installing Spal power windows and door locks with a remote keyless entry/alarm system on my 70 Chevelle. I haven't seen a write up on this so I thought I would offer help to those wanting to do this. All of these products come from Italy, so the directions are not the best. Fortunately Spal of America is based in Iowa and tech support is excellent. Check out E Bay for the best prices.
The power locks use a push-pull actuator that connects to the original "push rod". They provide a nice set screw connector to attach the two together.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks006.jpg
I located the actuator down low. This picture is taken looking down the window slot. The actuator is black. It is just below the "Driver" I wrote on the regulator assembly.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks007.jpg
This shows the phillips head screws that fasten the actuator to the panel.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks004-1.jpg
I also purchased the AS 80 keyless entry/alarm system. The doors lock/unlock with a key fob. It comes with a red LED which I mounted on the dash. It flashes slowly to warn potential bad guys. The system has many options. So far I have connected door jamb switches, a hood pin switch, a trunk pin switch, and dome light. The processor is programmable, with options like automatic door lock 10 seconds after car is started, and unlock when car is turned off. I also programmed dome light on at unlock.
Now on to the power windows. I bought the more powerful motors for the front and the standard motors for the rear.
After trying many locations for the Spal power window motor I decided on this. Be sure to check with the window rolled all the way up and then down. The motors can be clocked to several locations, I chose down and forward for the fronts.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks002.jpg
I liked this location best because it allowed the cables leading to the transmission to be contained in a "recess" of the door panel. This will allow the door panel to sit flush and not bulge out. I cut a slot in the "step down" part of the panel, just below the handle to bring the cables to the outside. I used two of the brackets to support the motor, one pointing up and one to the rear.
The rear quarter windows were the easiest. Again I chose a recessed area to route the cables and keep them in tight. The motor is in the back away from any interferences. I used one bracket up and one down to support the motor.
http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/DRHRSH/Spalwindowsandlocks011.jpg
Routing the wiring harness is a bit tedious. I am doing a frame off, so I still have my headliner off. I routed the rears up through the A pillar, then across the roof diagonally to the passenger rear. The driver rear was routed inside the outer edge of the roof. If you were doing this to a completed car this would be more difficult. I chose a driver's door mounted pod for 6 switches. It comes with a lock out switch for the rear windows. I also bought the optional lock/unlock switch for the pod. If you don't want this there is a blank for that location on the pod. The driver door harness required a 1 1/4" hole in the jamb and the door. I used large grommets to protect the wires and allow opening and closing the door. The passenger door has a smaller harness and I used 3/4" holes.
I am very pleased with the final result. I wish the directions were better but as I said tech support is excellent. I hope this post helps others. This web site has been very helpful to me so I thought I would share this with others.
__________________
70 Pro Touring ZZ502, MassFlo Injection, 4L80E, 9 inch Truetrac 4:11's