I purchased a new brake booster and M.S. from GU and would like to keep it looking nice. Has anyone used POR clear coat on theirs or I read wax is another option. I have a 71 Chevelle, thanks in advance.

Dale

Id use eastwoods spray on satin clear that made for bare metals that's non yellowing/fuel proof/good up to i thnk 250deg f/wont look to shinny/etc before using POR's clear.

I have used Eastwoods clears that are mfg for very specific applicatons for underhood resto work and when properly preped & applied have had very good results with it.

Go to the Eastwood website and search diamond clear and different types should come up with at least 1 or 2 that will work well for your application.

You shpuld also coat you new master cyl with a cast coat of some kind or if it look great as is then clear that too with an appicable satin clear to go over either beare cast iron or if you decide to cat coat the master cyl prior to install.

While your at it i would use satin clear for bare metal on all steel breakilines going to master cyl under the hood to keep them from rusting too.

Scott

If the booster is gold iridite, I'm reasonably certain any clear put on it will drastically change it's appearance. You might want to test on an area that won't be seen.

Its a gold color bought it from ground up as well as the master cylinder. I would like to coat it for long term durability and have some POR clear but wasnt sure if it would turn the finish. Need to cover the master cylinder as well. I remember reading wax or oil has been used but need some advise.

As long as you keep it clean it will be fine. I've had the same booster on my 70 for almost 10 years now.

Just leave the booster alone as Tom says. It's plated. I've got over 20K non pampered miles on mine amd it looks like it did the day I bought it. I cast blasted the MC although it's supposed to be black. If you want to maintain bare metal and don't want to apply paint use REM oil for firearms. Or any other preservative made for bare metal. Applications pertain to many industries, not just cars. Marine and aviation as well.

DO not clear !!.changes it to gold. gary

+ that POR stuff you have MAY be a very high gloss...it will look pretty bad if that's the case.

X3 from Tom and Scott...

Mine is over 10 years old and still looks great. Gold CAD.

Do not clear coat it, you WILL ruin the finish. Been there, done that.

I've also had no success with any clear over a bare metal finish, even if it claims that it can be used that way. If you're looking to put something on the cast master cylinder, you'll either have to go with a cast blast paint, a thin coating of oil, or a product like Boeshield ( which is like a wax ).

For a cast iron piece, you can also load it up with wheel bearing grease, let it sit overnight, then wipe off all the excess, leaving a nice thin coat that can be easily maintained. I did this with my rear wheel cylinders and they still look like new after being installed in the chassis for alomost 4 years.

Boeshield ( which is like a wax ).

x2 for Boesheild:yes:

http://www.boeshield.com/

BTW Dan, the wheel bearing grease on raw cast iron is a great idea. I will have to try it:thumbsup:

DO not clear !!.changes it to gold. gary

Ditto!! My sway bars now look like someone spraybombed them gold, dont like it.

The good clear to use IF youre going to use is Glisten. On the booster leave it as is. Just about anything you clear will darken, did a new intake once and went from bright cast to a med shiny grey.

Thanks guys got it leave booster and I will spray the master with cast paint thanks again.

Dale

THATS FUNNY,IT DIDNT RUIN THE BOOSTERS I CLEAR COATED. I CLEAR COATED A COUPLE BOOSTERS USING EASTWOODS SATIN/NON SHINEY CLEAR WITH NO ISSUES INCLUDING THE MASTER CYL COVERS WITH SAME TYPE COATING AS THE BOOSTERS HAVE TOO.

THE ONLY REASON I SUGGESTED IT IN THE 1ST PLACE BECAUSE I HAVE ACTUALLY DONE IT IN THE PAST AS I ALRREADY STATED.

OPPS,SORRY ABOUT THE DANG CAPS/LOL!!!!

I guess the people that have had problems with clearing their boosters had an issue with what process the mfg used to coat/dye the new booster vs what type clear is used setting up an incompatibility & or negative reaction between chemicals in the booster coating vs clearcoat which luckily for me i didn't experience the few time i cleared boosters.

But since people have had issues clearing new boosters to be safe i will make sure in the future to test the clearcoat on small spot on back underside of any new booster i would like to clearcoat to see if there's any problerms prior to clearing the complete booster.

I's been a while since i have clearcoated a new booster so who know's maybe the plating process has changed in some way thats more reactive to some clearcoats but not reactive to all clear coats.

But if your not going to clear a new boster I would at the very least put a couple coats of wax on the new booster prior to istall and then wax it 1x-2x yrly too which should in most cases protect it just fine .

I would also clearcoat the steel braklines leading into the booster along with the steel bracket that attaches the proportion vlalve to the booster mounting bolt with satin clearcoat too.

But not doing anything can allow the boosters exteriror coating to slowly over time/yr's degrade/corrode esp if the storrage area has higher humidity and larger temp variations at times vs a storrage area that's dryer with less temp variation .

That's just my exp & thought's on that one.

Scott

No one is saying the clear coat "reacts with" or "ruins" the zinc plating....IT DOESN'T.

What happens when you clearcoat a yellow zinc part is the clear tends to take away the "rainbow" look....the areas where the yellow/gold is more silver looking. It tends to make the whole part look yellow/gold. That's what people meant above when they said "don't clear it".

No one is saying the clear coat "reacts with" or "ruins" the zinc plating....IT DOESN'T.

What happens when you clearcoat a yellow zinc part is the clear tends to take away the "rainbow" look..

Exactly. I used to do both zinc and cadmium plating among other plating processes. After the zinc/cad is plated it is rinsed and put into a tank of gold iridite. It makes the silvery finish convert to a gold iridesent finish. I would not put anything on top of this finish as it will ruin the desired look. Even wax will kill the the iridesence.

I'll tell you one thing that will ruin the cad plating on a booster, and thats anti-freeze. I had a radiator hose pop off at a car show, and sprayed anti-freeze everywhere. It was all cleaned up right away, but the two parts that it ruined were the booster, and the oil sending unit, which are both cad plated. It eats thru the plating like acid. I'm painting the oil sender which is suppose to be black anyway, and replaced the booster.