I have a big block Chevelle and want some input re: pre-heating the oil and/or the block before cold starting. Its a good idea for cold weather and some newer cars now have such factory installed devices. There are several devices out there but I don't know what to try. There are heating gadgets that you can glue on to the bottom of the oil pan, block heaters, and dipstick type heaters. Ideally, I am looking for something that you can remove so that the car remains stock looking.
An oil heater via the dipstick I am considering and I've learned that it is not the best method but I may want to use it in conjunction with a block heater.
I'm open to any ideas and knowing of any product vendors.
Thanx, Raymond

You need this in Sacramento? I've started my Camino 454 multiple times in below freezing weather without issue.

I have a big block Chevelle and want some input re: pre-heating the oil and/or the block before cold starting. Its a good idea for cold weather and some newer cars now have such factory installed devices. There are several devices out there but I don't know what to try. There are heating gadgets that you can glue on to the bottom of the oil pan, block heaters, and dipstick type heaters. Ideally, I am looking for something that you can remove so that the car remains stock looking.
An oil heater via the dipstick I am considering and I've learned that it is not the best method but I may want to use it in conjunction with a block heater.
I'm open to any ideas and knowing of any product vendors.
Thanx, Raymond

I suppose if you are running 60 weight or pure STP but really Sacramento is the last place I think of when I think about a need to preheat engines or engine oil!!!!

C'mon guys! Its not just Sacramento. Besides any cold weather starting is prone to rapid
enigine wear.
Raymond

You need this in Sacramento? I've started my Camino 454 multiple times in below freezing weather without issue.

Hi Raymond,

You're on the right track. I started my '65 327 many many times at temps less than 10F in Alaska. The rings were shot at 120,000 miles. I used 5-20 oil in winter up there. My '72 Mopar had good compression and no smoke at 230,000 miles. Garaged in Fresno most of it's life.

I used an inline (heater hose) 800 watts coolant heater when I was in Alaska, but I rarely "plugged it in" and never in the daytime.

Ideally you'd like to preheat the oil and the coolant and the cylinder walls. Best bet is warm storage. You could google engine preheat and get some ideas. A farm eqpt or truck eqpt website in Minnesota would have some ideas.

I used a catalytic heater in a bucket and a jury-rigged chimney up into the cowling and also an insulated cover to preheat my bug-smasher Stinson when I was in Alaska. Worked good. Cranking a cold engine with 50wt Aerosshell not conducive to long engine life and an overhaul on a Lycoming ain't cheap.

Good luck on finding a good solution

Raymond...your thinking is spot on.Any time you can reduce engine wear on a cold start is a good thing.
I like the block heaters that replace a freeze plug.Heats the cores coolant and aids in ring seal.The one con I have seen tho..unless properly installed..they will push out at high rpm.
As for oil heating with a dip stick..no experiance here.
I would just choose different viscositys for summer/winter operation myself.

On our tractors [John Deere] we use nothing but block heaters, they do the best job.
Easier on the starter, batteries, and rings and it gets cold here in Idaho.

IMHO Overkill. How long is this car expected to run? 250K miles? Cannot see the expended effort on what is likely a marginal improvement / reduction in wear given a realistic expectaion of miles the car will be dirven/ Just MHO.

Oman

Spent 4 years in Montana 66-70, used a block heater in the heater hose, plug it in keeps water circulating in the block at 120*. Change the heater hose and never know it was there. Worked at -49 below zero.

Spent 4 years in Montana 66-70, used a block heater in the heater hose, plug it in keeps water circulating in the block at 120*. Change the heater hose and never know it was there. Worked at -49 below zero.

Agreed 100000% but when was the last time Sacremento saw 0 degrees let alone -49??????????

We typically have long and cold winters, especially north when you get away from the Great Lakes. Block heaters are a very good idea, but I have never used one. I always get long life from my engines; how can that be? :D

The heater that fits in the heater hose is an effective way to go for faster warmups, but the factory used an element that went in place of a frost plug to keep the coolant in the block from being too cold. It seemed to be effective. The engineers seemed to think that heating the coolant rather than the oil was a good thing...

A good habit to get into is to not start a cold engine and idle it for too long. It is better to drive gently after perhaps a 30 second warmup as it will warm up faster and warm up the rest of the drivetrain as well. It is a lot easier to do if you have fuel injection; nothing quite like driving with a carb on high idle. Also avoid short trips in the cold, combine them and do your best to take a trip 20 minutes long or longer. I'm talking about when its freezing out.

Now for a really low tech application! When I was a teenager my dad allowed us to keep our hotrod ('40 Ford) in the heated garage while his car sat outside. (He was wise enough to recognize the value of such a hobby for a teenager). During some pretty cold winters his solution was to have a spotlight/floodlight bulb in a trouble light type of setup, and trained the light on the oilpan of his car. Hold your hand 6-12" from such a bulb and you will see how much heat it generates. Warmed it enough that he never had a problem. Left on continually in a garage, with no wind, it should work pretty well. As I said, low tech, no change to stock appearance. Not as effective as a block heater, but a cheap easy way to go.
John

During some pretty cold winters his solution was to have a spotlight/floodlight bulb in a trouble light type of setup, and trained the light on the oilpan of his car. ... As I said, low tech, no change to stock appearance. Not as effective as a block heater, but a cheap easy way to go.
John

We're assuming your car stays inside at night? If so, I was about to say the same thing; lo-tech but it keeps the engine bay from freezing temps. Attracts critters like crazy if outdoors though!

Move to San Diego, 81 degrees here today. Who needs a block heater or any heater for that matter.

don't bother. it isn't needed- especially in Sacremento.
and you don't need a long drawn out warm up period- start the car, let the pressures and what not stabilize for a minute or two and start driving it. drive it nicely until it is up to operating temp, and then drive it however you want to drive it.
it actually warms up faster when you are driving it and loading them otor down and letting a car idle really does nothing to warm up the oil in the transmission or rear differential.

Thanx for the input. FYI, although Sacto doesn't get much colder than around 15 - 20 degrees fahrenheit the surrounding foothills with higher elevations does experience colder weather. A block heater seems to be more efficient from the advice I'm getting.
RG

I agree with novaderrik. I just dont see a reason you need to have block heaters where you are. Do you store this car for the winter months? Is the reasoning for this so you can start it up every once in a while?

Up here where it does get cold enough to justify a block heater most people don't plug it in until the temperature is around -15C (That's around 5F). An hour of heating works well. Most cars are fine with this. One to two minutes of idling then some slow driving to heat the engine up. Any more than that and you are just wasting fuel. Even when carbs were common and flooding was more of a possibility this temperature was the usual cut off for using the block heater. Now when the temperature dips to -40C or F (they are the same at that temp), it is a whole different world. Battery blankets to keep the battery warm and block heaters plugged in for at least 4 hours are the norm then. There is a case to be made for increased bore wear from raw fuel splashing into the cylinders and washing the oil film away leading to increased wear, but engines here last nearly as long as our southern neighbours I think.

Mike

1. A block (core plug) heater is WAY more effective than heaters plumbed into other parts of the cooling system. It will take LESS electricity and do a BETTER job of warming the engine. They also cost less; but depending on the application the installation may--or may not--be simple and easy. You WILL NOT pop one out "at high rpm" unless the installation was butchered. Which, unfortunately, does happen when people get careless. IF (big IF) the installation was screwed up, just getting full pressure on the cooling system may push the heater out.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Ql08xTgDL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

2. If you have a block heater, you can always choose to NOT use it. I'd have 'em in all my vehicles; but installation on the Luminas is quite a hassle.

3. They sell magnetic heaters, and heating pads, and battery heaters--I own a magnetic heater, but I don't use it for automobiles. A battery heater might be useful--I've never tried one.

Seems to me that those block heaters will only heat one side of the engine (unless a slant or inline).
I grew up in Idaho---seem to recall a heater that would circulate the coolant, but I have never used one. Have never used any heater for that matter.
minus 20* temps were common
I'd go out and start the car----go back in and have some coffee----and the car was warm when I was done. (73 Ply Gran Coupe)

I lived in a town of less than 5,000 and still managed to put over 100,000 miles on this car in less than 4 yrs.

If the plymouth did not wanna start (maybe 2x in 4 yrs) the 53 Chev pick-up always started.

[QUOTE=Schurkey;2695906]1. You WILL NOT pop one out "at high rpm" unless the installation was butchered. Which, unfortunately, does happen when people get careless. IF (big IF) the installation was screwed up, just getting full pressure on the cooling system may push the heater out.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Ql08xTgDL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Agree with the sloppy installation will lead to failure.I had two of three brand new ss454 pickups right off the portable parking lot shove them out at wot 1-2 shift points during pre delivery inspection.Both heaters I replaced were overtightened and pulled the threads in the wing right from the factory.Both these units had seen full operating temp and system pressure at idle..but it took the wot blast to expose the weakness brought on by overtightening.
Personelly..I have installed numerous block heaters over the last 30 yrs with no failure myself..knock on wood.