I am doing iterations on my 12 bolt dialing in the pattern. It's all fine, except for I hate getting the carrier side shims in. I am using Yukon super shims, the ones that captivate the shims into one unit that can't shingle when pushing them in, so that's good. I hold the races on the bearings, and put the shim packs on the outsides, Then I put that whole held-together package up to the housing, and try to slide it in. I am finding that the slightest bit of preload wants to push the race cockeyed, which makes it impossible to slide in (for me). It's a really delicate opeation.

Once I have the assembly started into the housing recesses, the shimpacks start to nang up and get onry. I just tap them as I go to keep them even with the carrier. The force to tap them in is hard to describe, but I use a brass rod with light taps from a carpenter's hammer, about like the taps to get a small nail started in pine. Much more force than I could push with my fingers.

Any tips or tricks, or is this just a pick/shovel procedure?

I use a case spreader and a special tool that looks like a large punch with a large u on the end. The case spreader opens up the case ever-so-slightly, making it easy to insert the shims. And the special tool distributes the force evenly across the shim surface, which is great when you are installing cast iron shims.

Mike

OK... what in the heck is a case spreader? That's gotta be good. How is it for convenience, or so you can cram more shims in to get uber tight preload?

OK... what in the heck is a case spreader? That's gotta be good. How is it for convenience, or so you can cram more shims in to get uber tight preload?

This is a case spreader.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-7071
Works great, makes it easy to get the shims in but you have to be careful not to go crazy on spreading it or else the case will take a permanent set.
They are very pricey to buy but are VERY easy to make yourself VERY cheaply.
Mike

That's crazy! Man, with that piece and the rear end on a bench, you would have to be careful to not drop the carrier in. There's always something new on this site for me to giggle about. Very interesting, if that unit will actually noticeably spread the housing a titch, then I guess it's not to hard to believe that this unit (http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1810) can help keep it together.

Oh yeah, it spreads the housing like a mofo, that's why you have to be careful not to overdo it.

a spreader is not really required on a 12 bolt. you have a hard time getting the right preload on a dana 60 without one though.u use factory replace ment shims for the 12 bolt. the right preload requires you to use some force to get it all seated. i also use a punch with a cup at the end to fit against the shims

http://thumb7.webshots.net/t/57/657/1/33/4/2996133040041712107TCsHbT_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2996133040041712107TCsHbT)
I made this from a piece of 3/16 steel and a 3/8 rod.

want to sell it? :)

When I had my 12 bolt apart I put one shim in, slide the carrier down, and then tapped the other shim in with a brass hammer.

Your lucky to have the later model 12 bolt. My '66 doesn't have enough room to use that pack. I had to put the shims in without it. I had to make sure at least one of the shims was wide enough to tap in. It was tricky with all of the cycles of checking and adjusting.

The older rear ends are more difficult because of the thin shims. I have collected a large pile of the original GM shims for those rear ends, so it isn't quite as hard for me. GM quit making these shims, so the thin after market shims are all that is available now.

Are those case spreaders sort of like the instruments gynocologists use? :D

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Does being stuffed into a Cadillac ,and then spending the most of the passed 30 years sitting outside, count as neglect?

When I had my 12 bolt apart I put one shim in, slide the carrier down, and then tapped the other shim in with a brass hammer.

That's how to do it. :yes:

The older rear ends are more difficult because of the thin shims. I have collected a large pile of the original GM shims for those rear ends, so it isn't quite as hard for me. GM quit making these shims, so the thin after market shims are all that is available now.

I posted this before, but time to bring it back from the dead:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=338137&highlight=differential+shims

I found thick shims to use a 64-66 rear. :yes: They aren't cheap, but it beats trying to stack the thin ones. :) 2002 S-10 pick-up 7.5" rear. Same diameter shims as an 8.2, and readily available from GM. Details and part numbers in link. Both part numbers I purchased in 2010 still come up "good" on GM Parts direct - I just checked.

Hope it helps...