Recently (this week) my 71 Malibu sometimes will not turn over. No click of the starter. Someone suggested it may be the started, but I just don't think so.

It will often start when I jump it thoughm once when I shut off the headlights it fired right up. However the battery is fresh and pretty strong (12v), and ALL the cables are new and well-grounded (both to block and fender well). New 90A alternator seems fine, plenty.

No "missing" or grinding of the starter has ever been heard.

I recently advanced the timing to 17 degrees, but it started fine for a month this way, no issues at all, even in cold.

Suspect it's electrical/battery then, but could it be the starter just not behaving? Thanks!

Bad contacts or a weak coil in the starter solenoid can cause those symptoms. The next time it does that, tap on the solenoid and try it again.

Tom

just run it over to checkers or autozone, they can load test the car for free. jim

Start with the basics, like making sure your battery connections are clean and tight. Is the no-start situation random or does it happen only after the car has been sitting for a while? That could indicate a parasitic drain of the battery. If it starts quickly every time with a jump, then it looks like the starter is not at fault.

The first thing I'd do is replace both battery cables with top quality parts. I'd bet that'd fix it, but if not, at least you can remove it from the list of possibilities.

the battery is fresh and pretty strong (12v),
If you've only got 12 volts with no load on the battery...that's the problem.

A fully-charged battery will have 12.6--12.7 volts with no load on it.

A battery with 12.5 volts is 1/4 discharged.

A battery with 12.25 volts is half-dead.

sounds like a starter issue. I'd start there if the grounds and cables are good. Did the battery test OK?

I had a "fresh" battery too... but always had trouble starting after warmed up. So... I replaced the Starter, cables, bought a heat shield ( I have headers ) and still continued to have hot start problems. A friend lent me his battery, and found out my new battery was the problem. Replaced and cranks like a champ now. A new battery is cheap and easy to replace..."start" there

The first thing I'd do is replace both battery cables with top quality parts. I'd bet that'd fix it, but if not, at least you can remove it from the list of possibilities.

Already done, they are heavy and CLEAN cables, with extra grounds running. Thanks...

If you've only got 12 volts with no load on the battery...that's the problem.

A fully-charged battery will have 12.6--12.7 volts with no load on it.

A battery with 12.5 volts is 1/4 discharged.

A battery with 12.25 volts is half-dead.

This is WITH load, in-circuit, from the voltmeter inside the car, just after I crank it a few times - it's sitting still at 12v and is a fairly accurate gauge (runs as high as 13-14v when running at speed).

Have not had time to get it tested. Not sure how the "test' the starter if it works most of the time, but will ask...

Start with the basics, like making sure your battery connections are clean and tight. Is the no-start situation random or does it happen only after the car has been sitting for a while? That could indicate a parasitic drain of the battery. If it starts quickly every time with a jump, then it looks like the starter is not at fault.

It's random and sometimes only after the car's been idle for minutes. Sometimes it just clicks right over without changing anything - no jump etc. Will test the starter asap... thanks!

Next time it doesn't start wiggle the electrical connector going through the firewall and try.. Sometimes there is a poor connection or corrosion. If that doesn't work hit the starter with a hammer (hit it) and see if it will start. If so, brushes are probably worn out.

Good Luck,
Jon

When I had an Optima battery I was experiencing those same symptoms. The battery would reading 12+ volts but just didn't have any oomph. A new lead acid battery and no problems since.

there could be a dead spot in the stature armature or even a bad spot in the starter windings.

I had a "fresh" battery too... but always had trouble starting after warmed up. So... I replaced the Starter, cables, bought a heat shield ( I have headers ) and still continued to have hot start problems. A friend lent me his battery, and found out my new battery was the problem. Replaced and cranks like a champ now. A new battery is cheap and easy to replace..."start" there

This was it. New battery tested bad, not even a year old. Luckily, full warranty. Taking it in today. Thanks everyone for the input.

I was almost ready to buy another starter... until my buddy said "I'm sure it's your battery". I said OK just to humor him... but the joke was on me. Good to hear you're back online... now onto the next problem ;-)

Thanks, but still kinda curious, IS there any way to test a starter? When they're intermittant, you can't know unless it fails on you, but then how are you sure it's the starter failed? Until you change it, that is...?

Thanks, but still kinda curious, IS there any way to test a starter? When they're intermittant, you can't know unless it fails on you, but then how are you sure it's the starter failed? Until you change it, that is...?
Two ways to test a part suspected of intermittent failures:

1. Take it apart and thoroughly inspect it's components for signs of failure/wear/abnormal operation. Eyeballs and measuring equipment are probably required.

2. Flotation test: Haul that starter to a lake, river, or ocean. Throw it in. If it floats back to you, reinstall it.




MOSTLY, testing the charging/starting power team is simple and relatively straight-forward; the big drawback is the expense of an ammeter that's huge enough to test the current draw of the starter and the battery during a load test. The cost of the tools makes this a not-DIY-friendly undertaking. Which is why DIY people end up replacing parts without proper testing.

Schurkey,
Knowledge, desire, determination and friends will fix most of the problems with these cars. Forget the expensive tools.

Jon

Forget the expensive tools.

Jon
No, thanks. I just buy 'em used on eBay for ~1/10 the original price.



Which, I guess, makes them non-expensive although somewhat risky in terms of condition. So far...so good.