Ok, here is my problem: when i push on the brake pedal it goes like 6 inches without doing any braking?? I call it "Play" but i dont know how to describe it, when i push it, its like i'm pumping air for the first 6 inches of travel and then there is only like an inch that actually applies the brakes!! Is this a "spongy pedal"? I have tried to bleed the brakes but the moron who worked on the car last, stripped the front bleedr screws(is that the problem, not being bled? if so, any ideas on getting the crews out, already tried vice grips, didnt do a damn thing!)!! Also, the brake light is always on!! Well, i hope u guys can help. Thanks

You can bleed it from the master.Is it drums all around,if so,maybe tighten up on the adjusters to get the pedal a little higher.

What kind of car? Power or manual brakes? Drum/drum, drum/disk, or disk/disc? If converted, what was donor car or what kit was used?

Oh, oops sorry- 1971 chevelle 350, its the original system (brake and master as far as i know), disk/drum, power. Also, how do i bleed it from the master?? Thanks, and sorry for the lack of info!

there are two bleeder screws on the reservior itself..definetly bleed it from there first..did you check to see if the the brake light switch under the dash was any good? if not, they can be had at just about any parts store for about 7 bucks.

Check the master cylinder. Do you have the correct cylinder for your application and the length rod out the brake booster? There is a short and long rod. Look at the back of the master cylinder at the hole in which the rod sticks into. Long rod takes a deep hole, short rod a very shallow hole.

Go buy a pair of new front calipers, if they are that badly seized, you probably won't get them out. They are prety inexpensive, maybe 30/ea. No way to bleed the brakes without having access to all 4 bleeders.

Most master cylinders do not have the bleeders on them anymore so if it has been changed at some point it probably won't. With a helper working the brake pedal have them stroke the pedal and hold to the floor, then crack the lines loose at the m/c. Do that a few times at each line then go to the wheels starting with the R/R, L/R, R/F, then L/F. I prefer to bleed into a clear bottle with clear tubing to watch the fluid and ensure it is totally air free. You may have to give up on a wheel and continue to the rest, then go back and do them all again, that is OK. You should go through at least 2 pints of fluid to properly flush and bleed the brakes.

Ford fluid is one of the best brake fluids on the market, I know it will hurt to pour it into the m/c but it's for a good cause. Also make sure that rear brake shoes are properly adjusted before you finish, lightly dragging the drum when it is spun.