Have to get this solved before the car goes on the road. 72 chevelle with disc new disc brakes.
The tops of the wheels are tilted in very bad. There are no shims on the control arms. What could be wrong? can someone ahve used the wrong spindle? wrong ball joints, etc?Thanks

front coil springs could be worn, causing the front to sit too low - causing the camber to be too negative.

Where the wheels tilted in before the new disc brakes?

Are the disc brakes from a conversion kit that uses B-body spindles or are they stock chevelle disc brakes?

I noticed my passenger front tire of my 64 was tilted in at the top. It turns out the upper ball joint was so worn and sloppy that it was allowing the spindle to tilt up and inward with the weight of the vehicle. Changed out the ball joint and back to normal.

I only had one shim on that side also. You may need to get an offset shaft for your upper a-arm if you have a frame sag issue.

Good luck

Car sits pretty high in the front. I bought the car with the disc brake conversion done . how can tell if its a b body spindle? I will probably go with tubular UCA's w/ the new bushings installed and see what happens...

Stock spindles are 3 pieces, caliper bracket (2 bolts), turning arm (2 bolts) and the spindle. B-Body spindles (tall spindles) area 1 piece casted part (caliper mounts directly to the spindle) where the tie rod also bolts to the spindle.

Here is something to check if you have the tall spindles. Does the lower ball joint stick up thru the spindle enough to put a cotter pin thru the castle nut on the threaded part of the ball joint?

If no cotter pin, you will need to get a set of lower body ball joints (mid 70's work) machined to fit your stock lower control arm.
"Camber out", probably means, you need to 3/4" of shims in the front (or maybe use offset control arm shafts), and 1/2" of shims in the rear of the control arm. "Camber in" may be "frame sag", and requires the frame to be pulled out.

Dg thanks for the great explantion. I have stock Chevelle spindles. ( just checked it) Now i looked at the ball joints and they all have the cotter pins in them. But wow, theres nouthing left of the upper ball joints. Could this cause that bad of a camber problem? Is there a moog problem solver ball joint i could use? Thanks alot!

Excellent description DG to id the b-body spindles.

Nick, since the upper ball joints are bad, I would replace them. They are inexpensive. I got standard ones from NAPA which were Moog reboxed. It made a big difference before and after. I may have pics at home to show how much it was tilted before replacing the ball joints.

Moog makes their upper control arm shafts in a "problem solver" version which has a 3/36" off set built into the shaft. This helps with the very common problem of running out of shim room before the camber gets right. Your frame is most likely sagged. birdman

whoops! offset is 3/16", allowing you to effectivle lengthen the upper arm 3/8' allowing room for shims. birdman