Today I tried to press out the rear control arm bushings on the 67. When I was coming down with the press the arms were starting to bend in on themselves. I used plenty of lube but it did nothing. What I ended up doing was burning the bushings with a torch until I was able to beat out the center sleeve. Next I used a screwdriver to pry out the bushings. Out came the sawzall and I cut the center of the outer metal sleeve from the inside of the control arms. I got out the air chizel and cut/bent the remaining portions of the outer sleeve from the control arms. graemlins/angry.gif

Here's the question: How am I going to get the new bushings in without destroying the fresh paint on everyting? :confused: I realize I can try and press the bushings back in the control arms. I am nervous of this because of the bending experienced on removal. Should they slide in easily? How do I get the bushings in the ears of the differential?

Anyone who has done this have advice on how to without destroying the new paint?
graemlins/thumbsup.gif Thanks

You need to use a socket or a piece of wood to place inside the control arm to keep it from collapsing when pressing out the old and installing the new bushings.

Sorry, forgot to add that. The press has metal bars to go inside. I had one in when I tried it. There are metal plates to place underneath. They make an opening for the bushing to "fall out" The problem was no strong area on the ends of the arms where they rested on the plates. The bending was at the ends. I am guessing there will be the same problem going back in.

I'll probably take them to a shop to go back in but what do I do about the rearend? Can't exactly toss that in the truck easily.

Not sure if I did it "right" or not, but on the rear end, I held a 2x4 against the bushing, and beat the 2x4 with a hammer. I scratched things up a little bit, but when it's under the car, nobody will ever know that it's been touched up. ;)

I cheated. After 648,000 miles on the original control arms/bushings, I ordered 4 new arms and bit the bullet. I figured that after all that mileage and all those years, those bushings were NEVER coming out! Made my life alot easier. AT least now, I have boxed lower control arms. ;)

Do a search on control arm bushings from a few months back. I used a 1/2" bolt & nut & a variety of washers, exhaust pipe & a cam bearing. The bearing bridged the big end of bushing with a heavy washer & bolt thru washer & bushing. Washer close to the size of small dia of bushing (heavy) & nut. Tighten bolt & nut & bushing will pop. To install reverse the sequence with different size pipe, bushings etc. For the bushings in the rear end I had to grind the cam bearing to fit the one side. Also, use an inpact wrench & lube the bolt threads.

2x4 and a hammer worked for me also.
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Hey 540, are those Edelbrock uppers?

Originally posted by Herb:
Hey 540, are those Edelbrock uppers? They are the Global West peices.

Sitting here with 8 new bushings for the upper and lower arms of a 66, all 8 bolts loose. What's the best way to take the lower and upper arms off? Jim

I supported the rear with a jack, undid the shocks and pulled the front bolts from the frame. This dropped the whole rear as 1 assembly. Working with it on the ground was pretty easy. Email me if you have other questions. I'll tell you what I did where.

I've found that if you go ahead and box the arms before you take the old bushings out it is a lot easier to remove the old bushings. When I box the arms, I fully wrap the 2"x 1/8" bar stock around the ends, weld the seams, then press the old bushings out with a ball joint press - no bending and the old bushings come right out. Yhe heat generated in welding the reinforcement actually softens the rust and buildup so they come out easier.FYI, OLDED

Here's how I do it.... Take a drill and a 3/8 bit and start drilling out the rubber in the bushing. If you are lucky, the bit will crawl to the outside and "roll" around between the rubber and the outer shell of the bushing; if you pull back while this is happening, the bushing will walk out of it's shell with the drill bit. (I hope I am explaining myself alright) Then, take an air hammer or a punch and hammer and collapse in the left over shell in several places and then knock it out of the control arm. I find that this is the best way to keep from damaging or bending the arm. Then, to reinstall the new bushings, first off, put the bushings in the freezer for a while. Then make sure the holes in the arms are clean and dressed. (no burrs) Then, I take two pvc plumbing reducer bushings---2" on one end and reduces to 1" on the other. The 2" end will set against the shoulder on the new bushing and allow you to drive it into the arm. At the same time, the other reducer with the 2" opening is big enough to allow the other end of the bushing to pass into it while supporting the arm. (does any of this make sense?) OK, I am not done. I also take a 2" pvc coupler, (2" to 2"); and cut to the fit inside the contol arm. Then, cut a section out of it so that it is c shaped. (this will allow it to be removed after the bushing is driven in). This way you can drive in the new bushings without collapsing the arm. You can also use this setup for pressing also, but I find driving them in works better. Good luck! Todd graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Here's my method: Instead of wasting a weekend cussing and struggling, take it to a shop. It's not all that expensive. But of course, you won't be able to say "Yep, sure did it myself" ;)

Originally posted by Olle:
Here's my method: Instead of wasting a weekend cussing and struggling, take it to a shop. It's not all that expensive. But of course, you won't be able to say "Yep, sure did it myself" ;) Ya, I caved in on one of the lower fronts and took it to a shop. $5 out, $5 in per bushing/ball joint and the rear bushing shell was tack welded in. After doing the other side myself I thought it was $30 well spent.

That's what I thought. I think I'll take em in and have it done. Thanks everyone!!

I have the entire front suspension off now and will be replacing the entire front end along with all the bushings....including the rear control arm bushings. After doing a lot of reading/searches I too think it might be money well spent to take to a shop.

My question...what type of shop...good old "Joes Auto Repair"..."Suspension Specialist"...? I know most auto shops have presses and air chisels, but is this considered old school stuff?Anyone know of a reliable one out in the western suburbs of Boston